The Birth of American-Style Cheesecake in Ancient Rome

It was a nutritious and simple dish, perfect as a snack, particularly when sprinkled with poppy seeds and served in bite-sized cubes.

Ancient Romans indulged in a delightful honey-crusted cheesecake known as Savillum, thought to be the true precursor to modern American-style cheesecake.

Rather than Philadelphia cream cheese, they used fresh ricotta made from goat's milk, sourced directly from local shepherds. It was beloved by everyone, from slaves to aristocrats and soldiers.

The first detailed recipe for a dessert resembling modern cheesecake dates back to the third century BCE, penned by a renowned Roman senator, general, and historian.

"Cato the Elder was not only a distinguished writer and philosopher, but also a true food enthusiast and advocate for rural traditions and cuisine," says Giorgio Franchetti, an expert on ancient Roman food and author of 'Dining With The Ancient Romans.'

Franchetti explains that Cato documented the recipe for his favorite cake, Savilium, in his influential work 'De Agri Cultura,' noting that it was a popular treat in Roman homes.

A cake with a twist

Numerous myths and tales surround the origin of this beloved dessert, says Franchetti, but he argues that only the story of its Roman beginnings holds any real truth.

With the spread of the Roman Empire, Savillum was introduced to new lands, making its way to England and later, across the Atlantic to the Americas, evolving along the way and adapting to regional flavors.

"Savillum had quite a journey, it traveled far and wide," says Franchetti, who has uncovered numerous ancient Roman recipes. "Over time, the Romans refined the preparation techniques, bringing it to their far-flung colonies from the Middle East to Britain."

"It was a simple cake made from everyday ingredients: goat's milk, honey, and eggs. Thanks to Cato, we even know the exact amounts of each ingredient," he adds.

Another origin story claims that a basic dessert of cheese and honey, meant to fuel Olympic athletes, was created by the ancient Greeks in the 8th century BCE, long before the Romans adopted it.

Although a few Greek texts mention the dish, Franchetti points out that they lack specific details on its preparation, appearance, or a clear recipe.

Even if the dish was refined by the Romans after their conquest of Greece, Franchetti emphasizes that it was the Romans who truly popularized Savillum, not the Greeks.

'Ensure the center is baked thoroughly,'

In his recipe, Cato provides detailed instructions and valuable tips for making the cheesecake.

He suggests mixing half a libra of flour (about 11.5 ounces or 327 grams), 2.5 libra of goat cheese (or ricotta), one egg, and a quarter libra of honey in a terracotta pot previously greased with olive oil. Cover the mixture with a lid and place it on the fire.

Cato specifically advises ensuring the deep center is thoroughly baked. 'Once cooked, pour honey over it, sprinkle with poppy seeds, then return it to the fire to finish baking before serving,' the recipe states.

Savillum was likely eaten without utensils, as Romans preferred eating with their fingers, though it was often cut into cubes to make it easier. It was typically consumed throughout the meal, not just as a dessert at the end.

Cato’s version of Savillum can still be enjoyed today, along with other ancient Roman dishes, at exclusive 'Roman dinners' held at archaeological sites in Italy, hosted by Franchetti and 'archeo-cook' Cristina Conte, who specializes in recreating recipes from the Roman Empire.

The private events typically see guests donning traditional Roman robes to create an authentic imperial atmosphere.

"Savillum is incredibly simple and quick to prepare, taking just two hours, much less time than a cheesecake," says Conte, who also enjoys cooking ancient Roman meals with her family at home. "It has a delightful sweet-and-tart flavor thanks to the honey and cheese."

"It was a modest treat enjoyed by both commoners and nobility. I bake it in a regular or wood-fired oven when I can, and I love it best served warm, when it's puffy and creamy."

When perfectly baked, Savillum has the texture of a round pancake or omelet, slightly golden with a crisped surface. Conte notes that the Romans also made a version with apples and pears.

Italian Descendants

Today, Savillum’s influence can still be seen in many traditional Italian desserts.

Many pastries and cakes made with cheeses like ricotta, mascarpone, and burrata can trace their origins back to Savillum.

Neapolitan pastiera, Sicilian cassata, and 'granny cake'—a classic tart with ricotta, lemon, and pine nuts—are all descendants. Other relatives include Sardinia’s seadas, made with pecorino and honey, Latium’s Laurina tart with ricotta and chocolate, and sfuagghiu from Polizzi Generosa in Sicily, featuring Tuma sweet sheep cheese, candied pumpkin, cinnamon, and cocoa.

Then there’s Italian-style cheesecake. Thanks to globalization, Savillum has found its way back to its roots through American cheesecake, evolving into a popular sweet trend in Italy.

The torta alla robiola, a cake made with a unique soft cheese from northern Italy, closely resembles the classic New York cheesecake – except for the use of Philadelphia cream cheese – and features a base made of crushed artisan cookies.

Despite growing up with a rich tradition of local pastries – from cannoli to tiramisu, which also include cheese – Italians have come to love American cheesecake, often unaware of its Roman ancestry.

Many resorts, pastry shops, and restaurants now offer it on their menus, not just in major tourist cities but even in the heart of Sicily, traditionally considered the hub of Italian desserts.

'A Reincarnated Homecoming'

Biscomania is a small artisan cake and cookie shop located in the rural town of Capena, near Rome. They specialize in both traditional US cheesecakes and Italian variations, with toppings like pistachio, Nutella, and red fruit jam. Depending on customer preferences, they use Philadelphia cheese, mascarpone, ricotta, or yogurt.

While many cheesecakes require baking, there are also no-bake versions that set in the fridge instead.

"It’s not just a passing American trend," says Biscomania owner Simona Orlandi. "Refrigerated cheesecake is like a semifreddo, very refreshing and perfect for summer. It’s especially popular with young people, who tend to be the most Americanized around here."

"Aside from the US, unbaked cheesecake is likely the most popular choice among Italians. Since it requires no preparation, baking, or leavening, many families have started making it at home. It’s a perfect DIY dessert," says Orlandi.

Given that Italian meals are often quite heavy, Orlandi recommends avoiding cheesecake as a post-meal dessert, as it tends to require extra digestive effort.

Franchetti, a fan of cheesecake, believes its history illustrates that food can indeed be an archaeological treasure.

"Although we may have lost track of Savillum’s journey over the centuries, we can be certain that it fully transformed into cheesecake, a dish that the English-speaking world has since spread globally," says Franchetti.

"The ancient Romans created and shared this dish millennia ago, and now modern Romans are welcoming it back from regions once under Roman rule. In a way, cheesecake has come full circle," he adds.