The definitive guide to navigating Havana

In a city where car ownership is rare, Havana's residents rely on public transport. However, visitors may find it challenging to navigate due to unclear signage and unique rules that can confuse newcomers.

Unlike many large cities, Havana lacks a metro system. Instead, the city primarily depends on buses and taxis for transportation.

Walking is the best way to explore, although there’s an affordable tourist bus option, and taxis are practical if you're traveling to the suburbs or have mobility concerns. Here’s a breakdown of Havana’s transportation choices.

Engage with locals on a metro bus

Havana’s articulated metro buses, referred to as guas-guas (pronounced “wah-wahs”), operate on 17 routes linking central Havana to its suburbs. They can be hot and crowded, primarily used by locals, but budget-minded tourists might find them an interesting option.

Many of these routes converge at Parque de la Fraternidad in Centro Habana. Fares are approximately US$0.40 – pay upon boarding and keep an eye on your belongings.

Smaller minibuses known as taxis ruteros run along additional routes in central Havana, charging a bit more than the larger buses.

Enjoy a guided tour while traveling on the sightseeing bus

Similar to many large cities, Havana offers a hop-on, hop-off double-decker bus service known as the Havana Bus Tour, which operates on two main routes throughout the day.

The open-top T1 route covers most of the key tourist attractions in Centro Habana, Vedado, and Miramar, while the single-decker T3 heads to the beaches of Playas del Este through the city’s historic forts.

Both routes start from Parque Central across from the Hotel Inglaterra and leave every 20 to 30 minutes. All-day passes cost around US$10 and can only be purchased using a non-US credit card (cash is not accepted) when boarding the bus.

If you're close to the hotel areas, you can catch the airport bus

The state-operated company Transtur Havana has launched a shuttle bus service to and from José Martí International Airport. If you're in a rush or want a hassle-free arrival in Havana, consider booking a private transfer online in advance.

If you're looking to save money, you can join a shared ride to the hotel zone, but be prepared to wait (sometimes up to an hour) for enough passengers. The journey from the airport to Parque Central via the hotel zones in Vedado and Playa costs about US$10 and must be paid with a non-US credit card on the bus.

Private taxis tend to be more affordable but often come without extra amenities.

Private taxis, typically Russian Ladas, cruise the streets looking for passengers or wait slightly away from official taxi stands.

These taxis are usually less expensive than state-run options but may lack comfort (no air conditioning and be cautious about seatbelts). Foreign currency, preferably euros, is the best payment method – cash only. Make sure to negotiate the fare before getting in.

Cubataxis are fast and comfortable

The state-operated Cubataxis are typically modern yellow vehicles equipped with air conditioning and meters, leased by the government to private drivers.

They are available for pickup outside hotels and at designated taxi ranks, and they tend to cost more than Lada taxis. The advantage? They offer a quicker and more comfortable ride than private taxis.

Explore the sights from the vintage seats of a GranCar

GranCar is a state-owned company providing private city tours in beautifully restored vintage American vehicles.

These striking cars, ranging from vibrant pink Chevrolet Bel Air convertibles to 1940s Fords, typically gather near Parque Central and charge around US$30 for an hour-long tour of Havana’s key attractions.

Drivers also serve as guides, though their storytelling abilities can vary. Nonetheless, they are very popular among tourists. Longer trips and personalized tours can be arranged with the driver. Most cars accommodate four passengers, allowing the fare to be shared.

Classic American almendrones transport locals on established routes

Mainly utilized by locals, almendrones (also known as máquinas) are shared taxis that travel along fixed routes.

These are typically aging American cars with shaky suspensions, accommodating five or six passengers. Almendrones will stop anywhere along their route to pick up or drop off riders if there's room.

Habaneros (residents of Havana) use a series of intricate hand signals to communicate their desired destinations to drivers. You’ll need to collaborate with a local to master this informal sign language.

Avoid the yellow coco taxis

These unmistakable three-wheeled taxis, resembling coconuts and painted yellow, were initially created for tourists in the 1990s. Recently, they've faced criticism for their safety issues and inflated prices. It's wiser to walk or hail a traditional taxi.

Travel the narrow streets of Habana Vieja in a bici-taxi

Three-wheeled bicycle rickshaws navigate the tight inner-city paths that are too narrow or congested for cars, mainly in Habana Vieja. They typically charge between US$1 and $2 per ride. Be sure to negotiate the fare before hopping in, and brace for a bumpy ride.

Take a boat to explore Havana’s forts

Havana’s sole boat service transports passengers across the harbor to Regla or Casablanca (just a short walk from the forts), departing every 15 to 20 minutes from Emboque de Luz on the southeastern edge of Habana Vieja.

The fare is approximately US$0.40, and a quick bag inspection occurs before boarding. It's standing room only, but the journey takes under 10 minutes. Bicycles are permitted on the boats.

Explore the city by bicycle

Several trusted companies, including RutaBikes, offer bike rentals suitable for navigating the city. If you're unfamiliar with Havana’s layout or its somewhat chaotic road rules, the company also provides excellent guided tours.

In 2018, Havana launched a pilot bike-sharing program called Ha’Bici. Primarily designed for locals, it currently operates only in Habana Vieja with a limited number of bikes available.

Meander along the coastal promenade and explore Havana’s historic district

Havana is an excellent city for walking. A leisurely walk along the 7km-long (4.3-mile) Malecón is a must-do, and much of Habana Vieja is designated for pedestrians only.

The compact grid of streets in Centro Habana is also best navigated on foot. Watch out for uneven sidewalks, items being lowered from upper floors, and the intense heat.

Avoid relying on a rental car in Havana

Renting a vehicle in Havana is more trouble than it's worth. The state-run rental service Cubacar often runs out of cars during busy times, and the paperwork can be tedious and time-consuming.

Although car ownership is low, driving in Havana can be challenging. Roads, especially in suburban areas, are often riddled with potholes, and local drivers tend to have a chaotic driving style.

Transportation accessibility in Havana

Compared to the US or Europe, Havana presents challenges for those using wheelchairs, walkers, or strollers. Nevertheless, many Cubans navigate life with disabilities, making it possible to get around, albeit with more difficulty than you might expect.

Since buses are usually overcrowded, the best way to get around is to arrange for a modern state-run taxi that has enough space for a wheelchair or walker. While minivans are uncommon in Cuba, it's worth inquiring about them.

Sidewalks can be quite narrow, particularly in Habana Vieja, and they are often uneven and crowded. Thankfully, recent upgrades have made the pedestrian areas in the old town much more accessible.

Despite the unreliable infrastructure, Habaneros are known for their exceptional friendliness and hospitality, going out of their way to ensure your stay is enjoyable and hassle-free.

For additional tips and guidance, download Dinogo Planet’s free accessible travel guide.