The Experience of Riding the Rocky Mountaineer Through Utah and Colorado

“You’ve never witnessed Glenwood Canyon quite like this.” During lunch in Salt Lake City, my guide Shawn Horman describes the unique pleasure of taking a train through one of Colorado’s most stunning scenic routes.

“Glenwood is a lovely drive,” he continues, pointing to the stretch of I-70 that winds through the canyon. “But it can be pretty hectic – busy and full of twists and turns.” If you're behind the wheel, he notes, your focus must be on the road. On the train, you can kick back, unwind, and enjoy the mountain views.

I’m in Utah to board the Rockies to the Red Rocks train route, which takes me from Moab to Denver. Over the next two days, I’ll journey more than 350 miles through majestic canyons, historic towns, and desert buttes. This is the only U.S. route operated by Rocky Mountaineer, a Canadian company that also offers scenic trips from Vancouver to destinations like Whistler, Jasper, and Banff in British Columbia. Renowned for its luxury offerings and glass-domed train cars, Rocky Mountaineer has been running routes in British Columbia since 1990.

What types of excursions are available?

Shawn is here to guide me through Moab – he’s with Southwest Adventure Tours, a company offering both individual and group trips throughout the Southwest US. Basic Rocky Mountaineer packages include just the train ride from Moab to Denver or vice versa (starting at $1699 for the 2024 season), but travelers can add excursions to attractions like Arches National Park, Canyonlands, or even the Grand Canyon. After picking up Shawn, we drive from Salt Lake City to Moab, where a haze from distant wildfires hangs over the city skyline and the Wasatch Mountains.

We spend the day exploring Arches National Park. After years of travel writing, I’ve learned to steer clear of certain clichés and overused phrases like 'otherworldly,' 'wonderland,' and 'surreal' when describing remarkable places.

Yet at Arches, all those words rush to my mind. The landscape appears to be sculpted by hand, as if crafted from a blueprint meant to evoke wonder. It’s astonishing to consider that the perfect blend of minerals, time, and erosion created these delicately balanced rocks, deep canyons, and the iconic sandstone arches.

The detour sets a wonderful tone for the journey. With my boots covered in red dust, I’m eager to board the train and explore further.

What’s the experience like on board?

The next afternoon, I arrive at the station, thrilled to take in more scenery from the comfort of the train. As we board, I notice that most passengers are retirees, though I do catch sight of a few younger couples eager to experience the Rockies from a train car.

The train car is spacious and inviting. The reclining, leather-like seats offer ample legroom, and each one boasts a front-row view of the stunning landscapes. The tall windows arch up to the ceiling, allowing for unobstructed views of the route's deepest canyons. Each seat is equipped with an electrical outlet, ensuring I can keep my devices charged while capturing countless photos of the passing scenery.

What are SilverLeaf and SilverLeaf Plus?

On the Rockies to the Red Rocks route, the service is divided into two classes: SilverLeaf and SilverLeaf Plus. The latter offers access to a lounge car, which includes additional seating and a full bar with a superior selection of beers and wines compared to the SilverLeaf car. This lounge car effectively disperses passengers between the two cars—once we depart, most people head to the lounge for a drink, leaving the main car relatively empty. I take advantage of this quietness to enjoy the scenery on both sides of the car.

The GoldLeaf service, which is available on Canada routes and includes a two-level passenger car and a galley for freshly prepared meals, is not offered on this route. The tunnels on the U.S. route are too narrow for GoldLeaf cars, so Rocky Mountaineer introduced the lounge car for SilverLeaf Plus service, a unique feature for this route.

What is the food and drink experience like on the Rocky Mountaineer?

The lounge car buzzes with activity, acting as a social hub where passengers connect over drinks. Canapés and a fresh caprese salad serve as appetizers before our dinner. Our onboard host, August, details the menu: a selection of roasted chicken breast topped with fire-roasted corn and poblano salsa, ale-braised short ribs accompanied by pearl onions and foraged mushrooms, or a vegetarian dish featuring seasonal vegetables and roasted San Luis Valley potatoes.

Since there’s no galley car, meals are prepared offsite and reheated on board. It’s not exactly airline food, but it’s close. The catering service that Rocky Mountaineer partners with also provides gourmet food for private jets in Denver. My roasted chicken is beautifully presented, with the corn and poblano salsa layered on top and a sprig of fresh rosemary as a garnish. I'm pleasantly surprised.

The drink selection showcases some of the region's best producers. The beverage menu features wines from Colorado Cellars in Palisade, craft beers from Glenwood Springs, and artisanal spirits from Woody Creek Distillery in Basalt, Colorado.

Where will you be staying?

This isn't a sleeper train. That evening, we reach the only stop along the route: Glenwood Springs. A well-known travel destination famed for its hot springs and proximity to the Rockies, Glenwood Springs has hosted notable visitors such as Al Capone, Doc Holliday, and Teddy Roosevelt. The town maintains a touch of its Wild West charm, featuring a main street lined with low brick buildings and saloons.

I make my way to the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort to drop off my bags before heading to the hot springs pool, a vast complex featuring one large heated mineral pool and a semi-heated lap pool. As night falls, steam rises into the cool evening air.

The pool is vast and comfortably warm. Children leap joyfully from the edge, while older kids take turns diving off the board. Before European settlers arrived, the nomadic Ute people harnessed the area's natural hot springs for their healing properties, referring to the spring as Yampah, meaning 'big medicine.' The Ute tribes not only valued the mineral-rich springs for their restorative effects but also held them sacred as a gathering place for spiritual ceremonies and tribal meetings, reflecting their profound connection to the land. In the mid-1800s, following the discovery of gold in Colorado, white settlers began arriving, prompting the Utes to sign treaties with the US government, although they were ultimately forced onto reservations in Utah and Southwest Colorado.

In the 1880s, silver magnate Walter Devereux acquired the land surrounding the springs with backing from East Coast and British investors. He opened Glenwood Hot Springs in 1888, which quickly became a favored retreat for the elite seeking the therapeutic benefits of its natural waters. It evolved into a hub of social and cultural activity, hosting extravagant events and serving as a gateway for explorers and miners venturing into the Rocky Mountains during Colorado's silver mining boom.

Leaving Glenwood Springs

The following morning, I set out early to catch a glimpse of the train arriving in Glenwood Springs. Other passengers gather around, filling disposable cups with steaming coffee from a large thermos placed on a table outside the station. Suddenly, the sound of the train horn echoes, and the locomotive rounds a bend in the tracks. Everyone pulls out their cameras to capture the moment as the train comes to a screeching halt.

As we settle into our seats, August greets us warmly and informs us that there will be a slight delay while another train clears the tracks ahead. Breakfast service will commence shortly, featuring options of a frittata or a golden waffle.

Breakfast is served as the train glides through Glenwood Canyon. This stunning 16-mile stretch along the route showcases towering rock walls that soar over 1300 feet high. The sky is a brilliant blue with just a few fluffy clouds, and the sun begins to rise over the canyon ridge, illuminating the brown cliffs with a warm morning glow.

As we bid farewell to the majestic canyons and peaks of the Rocky Mountains and start our descent down the Front Range, Denver’s skyline emerges through the haze. I step into the open-air vestibule that connects two train cars, where it’s just me, the breeze, and the panoramic view. The train winds its way toward the city, and I recall Shawn’s words about how special the view from the train truly is.

At last, we reach Denver, the train coming to a halt in the vibrant River North Arts District (the aim is to eventually pull into Denver’s historic Union Station, though final agreements are still in the works). The railyard sprawls out like a sheet of music, with rails stretching in all directions. Passengers board coach buses that will ferry them to their hotels for the night. In the distance, construction cranes stand tall, momentarily paused for the weekend on this Friday night. It’s a fitting conclusion to our journey, a glimpse of a future in progress, albeit after a brief delay. But we remain on track.

Which way to go? Eastbound or Westbound?

Passengers on the Rocky Mountaineer Rockies to Red Rocks can choose to journey either eastbound (from Moab to Denver) or westbound (from Denver to Moab). Each direction boasts breathtaking views, but there are several factors to consider when selecting your route.

Beginning your trip in Moab has its perks, including the chance to visit the nearby Arches National Park before boarding the train. This awe-inspiring start lays the groundwork for the scenic adventure that lies ahead.

On the other hand, starting in Denver also offers advantages. The city is served by a major airport, making it easier for travelers flying in from various locations. This convenience can streamline your travel plans and minimize the need for extra transportation.

Additionally, if you're planning to visit Arches or other national parks in Utah, embarking on the westbound journey from Denver to Moab can provide a more dramatic and fulfilling conclusion to your trip. After taking in the magnificent landscapes and historic towns along the train route, you’ll arrive in Moab, eager to discover the unique geological features of Southwestern Utah.

Alexander Howard explored Utah and Colorado with the support of Rocky Mountaineer. Contributors to Dinogo Planet do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.