The Formica Wonderland of the Jersey Shore

NoNo Regardless of the season, diners are an integral part of shore towns. Nearly every East Coast beach community features at least one, from the Floridian, which has been welcoming guests since 1937 in Fort Lauderdale, to the 1940s-era Maine Diner near Kennebunk. Diners provide an affordable dining option for families on vacation, especially during a time when visiting the nearest beach was a classic summer getaway. In an era when beachfront real estate was less costly, operating a diner was a practical way to earn a living, particularly for immigrants. Despite the growing challenges for independent restaurants, diners continue to thrive in New Jersey overall and specifically along the Jersey Shore.

New Jersey is said to have over 400 diners—the highest count in any state—partly because it's a hub for commuters heading to NYC or Philadelphia, connected by a complex highway network. This state is also where some of the earliest diners were constructed, in factories like the Jerry O’Mahony Diner Company, established in 1917 and closed in 1952, or Silk City Diners, which ceased operations in the mid-1960s.

Like scattered gems in an archipelago, numerous diners line the Jersey Shore from Sea Bright to Sea Girt, whether they’re right by the water or just a short drive away. While some appear to have been here forever, new ones continue to emerge.

In Wall Township, New Jersey, close to Belmar and Spring Lake, a breakfast spot announces its upcoming opening on a sign out front; it will be situated in a quaint one-story house along Route 33. Just across the highway, Roadside Diner has been nestled in a diner car for many years. Inside, checkered tiles adorn the floor, and vinyl-covered stools line up behind the counter, facing booths that seem small by modern standards. Vintage tins of saltines rest above shelves filled with glasses near the grill. Faux plants dangle from a beam, and a picture of the Golden Gate Bridge decorates the center of the counter. Roadside gained fame for its appearance in a Springsteen video. The owner and cook, Demetris Gerakaris, immigrated from Greece in the late 1970s, worked at diners upon his arrival, and eventually acquired his own.

“Everybody knows everybody here,” Gerakaris shared in an interview with the National Herald, a publication serving the Greek American community. “Everyone is friends.”

With its rotary phone and AM radio, it feels much more old-school than JB’s Route 33 Diner in Farmingdale, which lures customers with tuna melts, burgers, and specials named after classic cars (like sausage gravy over a biscuit, coffee, and juice for the Camaro, or eggs Benedict with home fries, coffee, and juice for the Impala). According to a manager, JB’s has been around for less than a decade and gives off a diner-like charm, featuring a rockabilly vibe and high school-aged staff. Mondays are vintage car nights in the lot, one of many events stretching from here to Asbury, which hosts its own vintage car gathering near the beach on Thursdays. Regardless, between the decor, ambiance, and engine roars, it pays tribute to the past.

Located in Asbury Park, Sunset Landing is set in a quiet residential area just five blocks from the ocean, and it doesn’t resemble your usual diner. Instead, envision a low-profile cabin dating back to the late 1800s, with its name painted in bold red letters on a rustic sign. Inside, it feels like an eclectic surf lodge, adorned with surfboards hanging from the rafters, an ATM by the entrance, and local artwork for sale that hints at Hawai‘i. Donna Logdon took over Sunset Landing from her father, who purchased it in the 1960s. She and her husband Rob Pruszynski have managed it for years, though they recently sold it for over $1.1 million and closed its doors on the last weekend of May.

Like many diner proprietors in the area who have chosen to retire following the pandemic, the owners of Sunset Landing, now in their 60s, decided it was time to step back. However, rather than blaming the waning popularity of diners, they attribute their struggles to New Jersey’s heavy tax burden: The financial pressure of taxes on their property and home makes it challenging to sustain operations. The overall expenses are comparable to, if not slightly higher than, those in Hawai’i.

This situation contrasts sharply with when Logdon’s family acquired the diner. Before local high schools consolidated into larger regional ones, she recalls that her father kept Sunset Landing open as an after-school hangout for kids seeking snacks or late lunches after water skiing on the lake. “It was like Happy Days back then,” she reminisces. Logdon began working there at the age of 11, continuing through her college years. Her family’s contributions were so critical that she missed both her high school and college graduations due to work obligations. After feeling overwhelmed, she announced her plans to spend a year in Hawai‘i. There, she met Rob, and they spent five years in Maui before returning to Jersey to manage the restaurant until now.

Near the boardwalk, the Diner at Asbury Lanes — a relatively new establishment opened in 2018, connected to the bowling alley that also serves as a performance venue linked to the Asbury Hotel — operates daily from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. It boasts a bright and shiny interior, with gleaming chrome accents. Rather than conventional griddle burgers, they serve wagyu beef versions. There’s also a rotating boozy milkshake of the week. While the prices might not be as budget-friendly as those at Roadside, the evening atmosphere feels lively, allowing you to hear bowling pins clatter while enjoying a lager, or catch a glimpse of a band performing through the window to the stage behind the counter.

Though the Diner at Asbury Lanes has a corporate feel, it fulfills the same role as those longstanding establishments. It serves up delicious, affordable meals at nearly any hour, all within a setting that evokes a sense of nostalgia. This quintessentially American diner is a gathering place where locals and visitors alike can connect.

'I just finished unpacking my apartment and I could really go for a burger,' a woman declared as she walked in one Sunday evening, quickly taking a seat at the counter. She had recently separated from her husband in Virginia and was starting anew at the Shore, not far from her college-aged children.

Even though it was a hotel diner rather than a classic Mytoury like Roadside, Sunset Landing, or JB’s, everyone was well aware of their roles. The server promptly set a glass before her, and the few diners present paused to pay attention.