The French culture clash behind the massive traffic jams you’ve never heard of

In France, summer vacations are a sacred tradition. So much so, the government adjusted its Covid vaccination policies to ensure that workers could enjoy their beach holidays without worrying about missing their second dose.

The public outcry over the potential impact of strict vaccination policies on summer plans led to the unification of two deeply divided French factions: the 'juilletistes' (those who vacation in July) and the 'aoûtiens' (those who prefer August).

To calm these passionate holidaymakers, the authorities agreed to relax the rules requiring that second vaccine doses be administered in the same location as the first. Now, people can choose their vaccination sites, including popular vacation spots.

While the timing preferences of French holidaymakers may seem trivial to the outside world, it’s a serious issue within France, one that leads to annual traffic chaos and effectively halts the country every summer.

If you're planning a summer trip to France, keep in mind that many Parisian restaurants shut down for weeks, and be prepared to face some of the world's most notorious traffic jams.

To grasp why some French people swear by August vacations while others swear by July, you need to dive into what it truly means to be French.

'Everyone in France eagerly anticipates their summer break,' says Julien Louap, a 30-year-old August vacationer. 'It’s like Christmas, but in the summer.'

For Louap, a proud Parisian, the appeal of August over July is clear: Paris is too vibrant to leave in July. The city hosts a grand fireworks display on July 14 for Bastille Day, with a mix of public celebrations and private parties.

Fireworks light up the beaches.

When August rolls in, Paris undergoes a shift: tranquility. As most Parisians head out for vacation, residential areas empty, giving 26-year-old August vacationer Arthur Cuhel another reason to avoid July vacations.

Cuhel prefers not to return from his July vacation to an empty city, only to face the work grind while most of his colleagues are on the beach in August. For him, August also guarantees better weather and constant sunshine.

'In July, there are fewer people,' Cuhel says. 'But the weather isn’t great, and I need the sun.'

For many 'juilletistes,' a less crowded beach holds more value than one that's sunnier or hotter. Plus, celebrating Bastille Day on a quiet, relaxing beach is just as enjoyable as partying in Paris.

'You get fireworks on the beach,' says 21-year-old Juliette Gache. 'Meanwhile, August 15 is usually packed with people.'

Vacations in July tend to be cheaper, as hotel demand is generally lower than in August. In the summer of 2019, French vacationers booked 23.4 million nights in July, compared to 24.8 million in August, according to France's National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies.

Despite their differences, both 'juilletistes' and 'aoûtiens' agree on one thing: neither month is ideal for avoiding traffic.

'Traffic jams are pretty much a tradition,' Gache laughs. 'Even if you leave at 4 a.m., like my family usually does because we're crazy, you’ll always end up in traffic.'

'Jam of the century'

A common childhood memory for many French people is being crammed into a small, sometimes stiflingly hot car with family members on the A7 highway. This route, connecting Lyon and Marseille through the Rhône river valley, is affectionately known as 'the sunshine highway' because it leads to the sunny French Riviera.

'The Rhône valley is scorching in the summer,' says Lilian Delhomme, 24, a July vacationer. 'You feel like you're going to die from the heat, then you miraculously revive once you hit the beach.'

The most notorious traffic jam in France occurs every year on the Saturday when July turns into August. It's the day when returning 'juilletistes' meet departing 'aoûtiens,' creating massive congestion across the country, known as the 'jam of crisscrossing.'

'As usual, we’re expecting more than 700 kilometers of traffic this year,' said Fabrice Vella, chief forecaster at Bison Futé – or 'Smarty Buffalo' in English – the French transport ministry’s traffic information service.

The Bison Futé traffic service was actually created after the infamous crisscrossing jam of 1975, called 'the jam of the century.' On August 2, 1975, National Road 10, which linked Paris to Spain, saw a 450-kilometer-long traffic jam, blocking half of the road.

Bison Futé now uses a four-color system to rank traffic congestion, with green indicating clear roads and black representing the worst. France experiences only one or two 'black days' annually, with the crisscrossing Saturday often being one of them, according to Vella.

City at a complete standstill

One key reason for the French obsession with summer vacations is the country’s labor laws, which guarantee five weeks of paid leave for most workers. France was the first European country to introduce a nationwide two-week paid vacation in 1936 under the socialist government of Léon Blum, according to Alain Chatriot, a professor at Sciences Po university.

In the summer of 1936, for the first time in history, hundreds of thousands of French factory workers flocked to the beaches, enjoying vacations that had previously only been accessible to the bourgeoisie and aristocracy.

'It remains one of the most symbolic aspects of labor law,' said Chatriot.

The French passion for vacation also means that American tourists visiting Paris in August will find that most restaurants and cafés are closed.

Cyril Choisne, a 40-year-old Paris native, has been working in the city's gastronomic scene since 2006. His Michelin-recommended restaurant, Eclipses, located near the Musée d’Orsay, closes for the first half of August like many other Parisian eateries, as most of their clientele is on vacation.

'Last year, I tried opening from August 1 to August 15,' he said. 'The demand dropped by over 90%.'

For Choisne, however, the quiet of August is exactly why he encourages people to visit Paris at this time of year. Just keep one thing in mind, he said: 'Always carry a bottle of water and be prepared to struggle to find a restroom, as much of the city will be at a standstill.'