The intriguing history behind longevity noodles, a cherished dish for Lunar New Year celebrations

With Lunar New Year fast approaching, Johnny Mui finally has reason to smile.

After two years of empty tables due to the pandemic, the owner of Hop Lee, a beloved New York restaurant, shares that business is gradually bouncing back.

Mui became a part of the 48-year-old Chinatown institution in 2005, joining after losing everything to Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans, and eventually took the reins in 2018.

These days, he's hard at work coordinating with suppliers to make sure he has all the ingredients ready to satisfy demand for one of Hop Lee's most sought-after Lunar New Year dishes: Stir-fried Ginger Scallion Lobster Yi Mein – also known as longevity noodles.

“During every Lunar New Year, nearly every table orders our longevity noodles,” he shares. “Not only are they visually appealing and delicious, but they also symbolize good fortune.”

What exactly are longevity noodles?

This year, Lunar New Year begins on January 22, though the celebrations span several days and are collectively known as the Spring Festival. The traditional customs, including food, are rich in symbolism.

Longevity noodles are a symbol of a long life. As tradition dictates, the chef must not cut the noodles, and each strand must be consumed whole—no breaking them before you eat them.

However, that's where the agreement ends.

Ask people of Chinese descent which noodles should be eaten, and you're likely to hear a variety of responses.

At Hop Lee, longevity noodles are closely associated with yi mein, or e-fu noodles. These chewy, spongy Cantonese egg noodles are dried, deep-fried, and enjoyed year-round, especially during special occasions like birthdays and the Spring Festival.

Hop Lee’s lobster longevity noodle recipe has been a family tradition for decades. The yi mein noodles are braised with spices and shiitake mushrooms, while the lobsters are stir-fried with fermented salted black beans, eggs, minced meats, ginger, and scallions.

“We then place the lobsters on top of the noodles, and as the juices seep down, it’s simply mouthwatering. Even my son loves it—he would ask me to make it for his school parties,” shares Mui.

At Xi’an Famous Foods, a modest restaurant in Flushing, New York City, which has grown into a popular chain in less than two decades, CEO Jason Wang offers his own take on longevity noodles, a dish he grew up with. For him, any noodle that's long enough qualifies.

“Our biang biang noodles are certainly one of them,” Wang says.

Made from a simple mix of wheat flour and water, the dough is stretched and sliced into long, flat, wide noodles resembling belts.

“The most traditional method involves topping the noodles with aromatic ingredients like scallions and garlic, along with freshly ground red chili powder. Then, we sear it with vegetable oil and finish it with soy sauce and black rice vinegar. We call them Spicy Hot-Oil Seared Hand-Ripped Noodles,” Wang explains to Dinogo Travel.

In the early days, most Chinese immigrants to the United States were Cantonese, which is why yi mein is often considered the quintessential longevity noodle by many Chinese Americans.

However, regional cuisines, such as dishes from Xi'an, have been gaining popularity and broadening the variety of options in recent years.

“Yi mein are Cantonese noodles, so they differ from what we typically eat, but the symbolism of longevity is the same,” says Wang.

“The specific type of noodles may differ, but the core idea remains the same: ‘long noodles for a long life,’ and any long noodles serve this purpose.”

Hong Kong’s Aberdeen Yau Kee Noodles Factory, established in the 1950s, is increasing production in preparation for the Spring Festival. The owner notes that demand during this period is expected to rise by 20% to 30%.

“We’re busiest right before Lunar New Year because that’s when more parties and gatherings take place, and people traditionally enjoy e-fu noodles, or longevity noodles, during these celebrations,” says Tang Pui-sum, the second-generation director of the family business.

When asked why e-fu noodles are so popular among Cantonese, Tang attributes it to their superior quality.

“In Guangdong, people serve e-fu noodles to their family and friends on special occasions because they are seen as a more refined option – they require more steps to prepare and use higher-quality ingredients. They’re also distinct because e-fu noodles are deep-fried, setting them apart from other noodles in northern China,” Tang explains.

The history behind longevity noodles

Now that we’ve settled what qualifies as a longevity noodle – short answer: pretty much any long noodle – the next big question is: who decided that eating long noodles could actually extend one’s life?

Many blogs and websites trace the origins of longevity noodles to Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty (141-87 BCE), who told his ministers that he had heard that having a long face would lead to a long life.

Unable to change the length of his face, the emperor opted to eat long noodles, believing that the word for noodle sounded similar to the word for face in Chinese. The tradition then spread from the palace to the rest of the nation.

We consulted two food historians for their perspective on this folk tale, and they are skeptical of its accuracy.

“The Han Dynasty was when China’s noodle culture truly blossomed,” says Zhao Rongguan, a prominent scholar who has spent over four decades studying Chinese food history and culture.

“It was during this period that the techniques and foundations of modern noodles were established. But to claim that Emperor Wu is responsible for the creation of longevity noodles is, in my opinion, sheer internet nonsense,” he adds.

Chen Yuanpeng, a professor at Taiwan’s National Dong Hwa University specializing in Chinese food history, decided to consult with his colleagues when asked by Dinogo Travel to share his thoughts on longevity noodles.

“I reached out to Mr. Wang Renxiang (a Chinese archaeologist focusing on food culture) and Mr. Naomichi Ishige (a Japanese food historian and anthropologist). Both are experts in Chinese noodles, yet neither could explain the origins of longevity noodles or the associated story,” Chen explains.

The professor mentioned that he spent several days digging through old texts and books. Eventually, he came across a passage from one of the Dunhuang bianwen texts, a collection of rhythmic folktales from the Tang Dynasty (618-907), which detail a conversation between Emperor Wu and his minister, Dong Fangshuo.

“In the bianwen, the conversation between Emperor Wu and his minister about the length of the face concluded without any mention of noodles. The link between noodles and longevity was likely added later on,” Chen suggests.

“However, we can’t entirely dismiss the story – even if it’s probably just a myth. It has been passed down so many times that it’s widely believed, and it has now become an integral part of the culture and history of longevity noodles, which has been documented for over 1,000 years.”

How to enjoy longevity noodles.

The way longevity noodles are enjoyed can differ significantly depending on the region.

They’re also enjoyed in other countries that celebrate Lunar New Year, such as Vietnam, South Korea, Singapore, and Malaysia.

In South Korea, japchae (stir-fried glass noodles) are a preferred dish during Lunar New Year. However, their longevity noodles, known as janchi-guksu, are typically reserved for special occasions like weddings and birthdays.

In Chinese communities in Singapore and Malaysia, misua (wheat vermicelli) is often used as longevity noodles, though a more popular Lunar New Year dish is ‘prosperity toss,’ a salad of colorful shredded vegetables and raw fish.

Although Japan follows the Gregorian calendar rather than the Lunar one, they too have a tradition of eating noodles for the New Year. On New Year's Eve, they enjoy Toshikoshi Soba, or year-crossing soba noodles, to bring good fortune.

“In northern China, some still adhere to the traditional method of eating longevity noodles,” says Zhao.

“When the noodles are served, guests stand up and, using chopsticks, dramatically pull the noodles over their heads, then slurp them up in one go with a cheerful expression. It’s a way to show appreciation to the host.”

He notes that longevity noodles should be long and sturdy enough to withstand a strong tug from chopsticks.

Why are longevity noodles so popular in North America?

Now that we've established the vast diversity of longevity noodle styles and the unclear origins of their story, surely we can agree on when they should be served?

Not quite. Although longevity noodles are a beloved dish for Lunar New Year celebrations in Chinese communities across North America, some argue they aren’t even a traditional part of Spring Festival in China.

This isn't surprising, considering the size of the country and its multitude of regional cuisines and customs.

“I don’t think my family would serve longevity noodles for Lunar New Year,” says Chen, whose family relocated to Taiwan from Tianjin in northern China.

“I made a bowl of da lu mian (northern-style braised noodles with minced meat, mushrooms, and an egg) as longevity noodles for my mother’s birthday last year. I've always thought of longevity noodles as a birthday dish, not one for Lunar New Year,” says Chen.

However, Zhao argues that noodles remain an important part of Lunar New Year celebrations, especially in northern China.

“Longevity noodles are a vital aspect of traditional Chinese festivities... Naturally, we must have noodles during the Lunar New Year festival,” he says.

“The custom is to eat dumplings on the first day and noodles on the second day of the Lunar calendar. Then, we continue to have noodles on the 7th, 17th, and 27th days, symbolizing milestones for children, adults, and the elderly,” Zhao explains.

As for why many Chinese Americans mainly associate the tradition with Lunar New Year, Zhao offers this explanation: “When people move away from their roots, they might not feel connected to their identity year-round, but during festivals, the connection to their culture is reignited.”

“In diaspora communities, the preservation and significance of one's culture often surpasses that in the local environment,”