The journey of waffles from an Ancient Roman treat to one of the world's most beloved snacks

Made from leavened batter or dough pressed between two patterned plates, waffles are considered one of the oldest known desserts.

Typically topped with honey, whipped cream, syrup, or jam, waffles are perfect for breakfast, a snack, or even eaten on the go.

Extremely popular across northwestern Europe, the US, and Asia, waffles come in various forms—crisp, sweet, or savory—with deep or shallow grooves.

In Belgium, where they are called gaufres, you’ll find endless variations of this beloved treat.

The Origins of Waffles

So, where do waffles actually come from? Historians say the origins of this versatile snack stretch back thousands of years.

Although their history can be linked to Ancient Greece, Giorgio Franchetti, author of 'Dining With The Ancient Romans,' argues that waffles likely originated from a specific Roman delicacy.

'Waffles are likely descendants of the ancient Roman 'crustulum,' a sweet biscuit cherished by the Romans,' says Giorgio Franchetti, a scholar of ancient Roman cuisine, to Dinogo.

The Latin term for these biscuits indicates they were crispy, with a crumbly crust that melted in the mouth, Franchetti explains.

While there are no historical records on how crustula were shaped, Franchetti believes they were flat biscuits made from similar ingredients as waffles, baked in heated irons.

The cooking method for crustula is thought to mirror that of modern waffles, though it's uncertain whether they featured the signature grooves we associate with waffles today.

Franchetti's research suggests that crustula may have been a sweet evolution of panis obelius, an ancient Greek bread made with olives or figs, cooked between two irons and eaten during Dionysian festivals that involved feasting, dancing, and sacrifice.

'Crustula were basic biscuits made with flour, honey, and lard. Today, waffles use butter, but Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder noted that butter was a luxury ingredient, distinguishing the wealthy patricians from the common plebeians,' says Franchetti.

After studying ancient texts by Pliny the Elder and Roman poet Horace about crustula, Franchetti teamed up with 'archeo-cook' Cristina Conte to resurrect these ancient biscuits.

While Romans adored cheese, they considered butter a lowly byproduct of milk, primarily used for cosmetics, Franchetti explains.

Instead of butter, Romans crafted their crustula using lard or animal fat.

It is believed that crustula were consumed during religious rituals and sold by street vendors known as 'crustulari,' who peddled their wares in the alleys of ancient Rome, especially near temples and other sacred spaces.

Franchetti notes that these prized sweets eventually became a form of reward, given by teachers working for wealthy families to their most outstanding students.

The Sweet Evolution of Waffles

In his Satires, the poet Horace mentions that teachers would often give crustula to children 'to encourage them to learn the alphabet.'

Over time, these simple yet delicious biscuits became an essential part of Roman banquets, eventually becoming the dessert course at the end of the meal.

Crustula were so beloved by ancient Roman writers that several of them included references to these treats in their works.

Gaius Lucilius, the father of Roman satire, famously wrote that he 'delighted in crustula alone,' while other notable authors like playwright Plautus and philosophers Seneca and Lucius Apuleius also mentioned them.

Following the rise of Christianity, crustula were incorporated into Christian culinary traditions, according to Franchetti.

So, how did these ancient treats transform into the waffles we recognize today?

Franchetti suggests that the cooking method for crustula likely evolved during the Middle Ages, when the first grooves may have been added to the biscuits, bringing them closer to the waffles we know today.

Ferratelle, a traditional biscuit that has remained popular in various regions of Italy, is thought to be the bridge between ancient Roman crustula and modern waffles.

'In Molise and Abruzzo, ferratelle are a year-round favorite, enjoyed in a variety of shapes and sizes,' says Franchetti.

The name 'ferratelle' derives from 'ferri,' meaning 'iron' in Italian, referring to the metal press used to make the biscuits—a tool still used in some regions today.

Ferratelle, also known as pizzelle, feature the distinctive square grooves found on waffles, with a basic recipe and ingredients that are likely similar to those used for crustula, according to Franchetti.

In the past, ferratelle were always made at home and were especially popular during Christmas and carnival festivities.

Families would use special irons engraved with their coat of arms or initials to imprint their ferratelle.

'The Romans gifted us these heavenly biscuits. We've been enjoying them since the dawn of time,' says Maria Teresa Spagnoli of the L’Aquila pastry shop Dolci Aveja.

In the 1700s, it was common for parents to gift ferratelle irons, engraved with the family’s initials, to their daughters as part of their dowry.

'Today, we enjoy ferratelle for breakfast, as a sweet treat after dinner with a digestive liqueur, or even on road trips,' adds Spagnoli.

Still made in traditional irons, the ferratelle from Abruzzo are crafted with eggs, olive oil, milk, vanilla, and grated lemon peel.

In L’Aquila, ferratelle come in a variety of shapes, including diamonds, stars, and hearts.

The Timeless Treats

In addition to the classic recipe, Dolci Aveja, the leading producer of ferratelle in L’Aquila, also creates versions with cereals and a savory variant flavored with rosemary, which pairs perfectly with prosecco as an aperitif.

Making ferratelle remains a cherished ritual for those who continue the tradition.

'According to our tradition, to make perfect, authentic ferratelle, you must say one Hail Mary while cooking the first side, and one Lord’s Prayer for the other side,' says Spagnoli.

To speed up the cooking process, many in Abruzzo now use electric irons.

With electric irons, there's no need to flip the ferratelle, as both sides cook at the same time.

In Vasto, a coastal town in Abruzzo, ferratelle are topped with dark chocolate and are known as 'catarrette.'

Locals hold dear the ancient irons passed down by their ancestors, often engraved with their family initials.

Gianfranco Bonacci, a historian from Vasto, remembers how his grandmother would bake ferratelle on Sundays or for special occasions, and the family would enjoy them throughout the week.

'It was a daily treat. Sadly, my family has lost the old irons, and it’s now difficult to find a blacksmith who still makes them, as there are very few blacksmiths left,' says Bonacci.

In neighboring regions of Italy, including Latium, ferratelle are known by different names and come in various forms.

In Liguria, waffle-like cookies can be found, and in Piedmont, they are called gofri, featuring a deep, textured honeycomb pattern reminiscent of Belgian gaufres.

So, how and when did these 'Italian waffles' make their way to northern Europe and the US?

'The Romans, along with their culture, spread their culinary creations across the empire. Crustula traveled far and wide, reaching what are now France, the Benelux countries, and England,' says Franchetti.

By the time the Roman Empire fell, crustula had already become integrated into the local cuisines of these regions.

A further evolution likely took place along European trade routes during the Middle Ages, when Italy’s honeycomb ferratelle were exported to northern Europe.

The journey to the New World began in the early 1600s when the first Dutch settlers arrived in New York City.

'This is when crustula evolved into ferratelle and ultimately became the waffles we know today in America,' says Franchetti.

Today, waffles are enjoyed all around the globe.

In the US, National Waffle Day is celebrated on August 24, marking the anniversary of when Dutch-American Cornelius Swarthout was granted the patent for the first waffle iron in the country.