The Modern Revolution of Roman Pizza

The street outside Pizzarium, the renowned pizza al taglio spot by Gabriele Bonci, is perpetually crowded. During lunch hours, you'll find workers, food tours, and pizza enthusiasts vying for space at the high-top tables. Inside, a showcase displays an array of pies, each thick and crispy, ready to be sliced and served from a custom-built Castelli oven.

Pizzarium is a hotspot now, but it started differently. In 2003, Bonci, transitioning from chef to baker, opened his shop on a quiet street near the Vatican. His innovative dough, crafted from stone-milled heirloom grains and topped with fresh ingredients like sheep’s milk ricotta and zucchini, was a bold shift from the city's usual pizza al taglio, which often relied on basic, low-cost ingredients.

Bonci, who prioritizes high-quality ingredients, states, “Using generic ingredients was never an option.” His pizza in teglia—baked in rectangular cast-iron pans—boasts premium flours and organic toppings. He believes food should nourish, avoiding industrial flours that lack nutrition and flavor. His dough, fermented slowly in the fridge for days, results in a light, tasty pizza that’s easier on the stomach.

Initially, Bonci’s innovative take on a staple fast food faced skepticism. However, his pizzas soon won people over. Today, Pizzarium stands as a landmark, boasting two additional Bonci-branded bakeries in Rome and two in Chicago after 15 years of success.

Pizzarium exemplifies the broader transformation occurring in Roman pizza-making. In recent years, a select group of pioneers like Bonci have been reimagining traditional pizza, leading to a creative surge. These 'third-wave' pizzaiolos emphasize high-quality ingredients, slow fermentation, and bold experimentation.

At 180g Pizzeria Romana in Centocelle, Jacopo Mercuro and Mirko Rizzo offer round pizze tonde, crafted in the traditional pizza romana style, featuring a thin crust with a delicate cornicione. Named for its use of 180 grams of dough per pie, each is hand-stretched before baking. “We aimed to revive the tradition of high-quality ingredients that was nearly lost,” says Mercuro. Their pizzas feature locally sourced toppings, from classic margherita and marinara to inventive options like porchetta and an amatriciana-inspired creation.

Luca Pezzetta, a former Bonci protege and the chef at the new Roman brewpub L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo, shares his approach: “I was encouraged to experiment when I started here.” At this spot, you can enjoy Pezzetta’s thick-crusted, pre-sliced pizze tonde, topped with innovations like creamy burrata and crunchy toasted hazelnuts. This approach contrasts with traditional Roman oven-baked toppings, as Pezzetta treats each topping as a separate dish, meticulously prepared and layered on the crust.

In addition to pizze tonde, Pezzetta crafts various other styles including oblong pizza alla pala, pizza in teglia, and his unique trrranch—pizza dough used as sandwich bread. These creations feature fillings such as salami, cheese, arugula, and artichokes. The trrranch can be enjoyed individually or as part of a degustazione (tasting menu) offering a diverse sampling of Pezzetta’s styles. “Pizza in teglia is typically fast food, but serving it at a table with service enhances the experience,” Pezzetta notes.

Pizza a degustazione, once a niche concept, has now entered the mainstream. Traditionally, Roman pizzas are served whole for individual consumption. However, this sharing approach was popularized by Edoardo Papa of In Fucina over a decade ago, with pizzas arriving pre-sliced for communal tasting. This trend has continued with new establishments like Pier Daniele Seu’s Seu Pizza Illuminati in Trastevere, offering classic and seasonal pizzas, such as blue cheese with pears and cocoa powder or puntarelle with burrata and anchovies. Diners can opt for a la carte or indulge in a guided multi-course pizza tasting.

A decade ago, serving unconventional flavors in a tasting menu would have been considered sacrilege by many Romans. “Initially, people might stick to the classics,” says Seu, “but once they grasp my approach and appreciate what I’m offering, they’ll move away from traditional toppings. They’ll seek those elsewhere.”

Visit Pizzarium at Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Rome, 180g Pizzeria Romana at Via Tor de’ Schiavi, 53, 00172 Rome, L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo at Via Silla, 26a, 00192 Rome, In Fucina at Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 Rome, or Seu Pizza Illuminati at Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 - 18, 00153 Rome.

Explore 20 must-visit pizzerias in Rome here.

Katie Parla is a Rome-based cookbook author, food journalist, educator, and culinary guide.