The new Chinese name for kimchi has become the focal point of a cultural conflict once again.

More than just a fiery favorite in Korean homes and eateries around the globe, kimchi—the famous fermented vegetable dish—has once again found itself at the center of a cultural clash between China and South Korea.

The latest chapter in this long-standing culinary dispute unfolded in July when South Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism issued a notice revising the official guidelines for the foreign language names of certain Korean foods.

One of the key changes is the adoption of 'xinqi' as the new official Chinese name for kimchi, replacing the old term 'pao cai' (salted fermented vegetables).

The controversy stems from the lack of a Chinese character that fully captures the pronunciation of kimchi. The Ministry of Agriculture is said to have considered over 4,000 Chinese characters before settling on 'xinqi,' which they argued resembled the sound of 'kimchi.'

'Xinqi' (辛奇) is composed of two Chinese characters: 'Xin,' meaning spicy, and 'Qi,' which means unique or intriguing.

With this new name, the South Korean government aims to clearly distinguish between Korean kimchi and Chinese pickled vegetables, which are referred to as 'pao cai' (泡菜) in China.

The official release stated, 'By adopting the term 'xinqi' for kimchi in Chinese, the ministry intends to clearly differentiate Korean kimchi from Chinese pao cai and raise awareness of South Korea’s traditional dish within China.'

While the new guideline is compulsory for the South Korean government and its affiliated bodies, it remains a recommendation for private South Korean businesses translating 'kimchi' into Chinese, as well as for Chinese media covering the Korean dish.

Nevertheless, the decision has sparked intense debates among the media and online communities in both countries.

What sets kimchi apart from pao cai?

Before delving deeper into the dispute, it’s important to understand the distinction between kimchi and pao cai.

Kimchi is a general term for over 100 varieties of fermented vegetables in Korea, but it is most commonly associated with napa cabbage fermented with seasonings like red chili, garlic, ginger, and salted seafood.

There are also other types of kimchi, such as chonggak kimchi (fermented radish kimchi) or milder varieties like baek kimchi (non-spicy white cabbage kimchi).

In contrast, 'pao cai' in Chinese literally translates to 'soaked vegetables.' This is because the pickled vegetables, typically made from a variety of greens like cabbage or carrots, are immersed in a brine solution, with or without added seasonings. The jars of vegetables are then left to ferment at room temperature.

Due to their similarities, kimchi is often referred to as 'hanguo pao cai' in China, which translates to 'Korean fermented vegetables.'

Not the first attempt

This is not South Korea’s first effort to establish 'xinqi' as the official Chinese term for kimchi.

In 2013, the Ministry of Agriculture pushed for a new name due to the growing presence of China-produced kimchi in international markets, including South Korea. Since 2006, South Korea has been dealing with a kimchi trade deficit with China. Between 2007 and 2011, South Korea’s imports of Chinese kimchi products surged by at least ten times.

However, after the new name was officially announced in 2013, it faced immediate backlash. The term 'xinqi' was so unpopular in China that the old name, 'pao cai,' was quickly reinstated.

On a brighter note, that same year, South Korea successfully had 'kimjang,' the tradition of making and sharing kimchi, recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, elevating the dish to a proud cultural symbol of Korea.

'Kimchi is South Korea’s national dish, not just because it accompanies nearly every meal, but also because it’s the most globally recognized Korean food. While many Westerners confuse gimbap with sushi, they can easily identify kimchi as Korean,' says Elaine Chung, a Chinese Studies lecturer at Cardiff University and East Asia researcher.

Chung’s research primarily focuses on Chinese and Korean cultures. In 2014, she conducted in-depth studies on the implications of renaming kimchi 'xinqi' instead of 'pao cai.' She tells Dinogo Travel that the controversy has only intensified since then.

'When I wrote that paper, the kimchi/xinqi debate was mostly a social media conflict between Chinese and Korean netizens. But now, it seems to be having a much larger impact in the real world,' she explains.

'The government's decision to introduce the new name can be seen as an attempt to show its citizens that it is taking action to defend Korea’s ownership of kimchi,' she adds.

BTS gets involved in the ongoing debate.

Why the sudden push for action now? The renewed focus on kimchi’s Chinese name came after a series of cultural clashes over the past year.

In November 2020, China received an IOS certificate for Sichuan pao cai. In an article published by China’s state-run Global Times, the writer claimed that 'Sichuan pao cai has become the international standard' for the pao cai industry.

'The so-called ‘Kimchi (Pao Cai) Sovereign State’ has long existed in name only,' the article stated.

South Korean netizens and media outlets were outraged, labeling the report as an attempt to 'steal' kimchi and Korean culture.

This sparked a surge in anti-Chinese sentiment, fueling calls to 'cancel Chinese culture' in South Korea.

A video showing a seemingly naked man submerged in a pool of cabbages and brown liquid at a Chinese kimchi factory, titled 'China’s obnoxious kimchi factory,' was widely shared on YouTube and by South Korean media, further escalating tensions.

The South Korean government has made other efforts to distinguish the two. Earlier this year, a new book about kimchi was released by the country’s national promotional agency, which included a section emphasizing the differences between pao cai and kimchi.

However, this did little to ease the tension, as the dispute moved beyond food and began to affect the tourism and entertainment industries as well.

Plans to develop a 'Chinatown' tourist attraction in Gangwon Province were scrapped in April after a petition garnered thousands of signatures. Meanwhile, the TV drama series 'Joseon Exorcist' was canceled after just two episodes, following public outrage over scenes depicting the lead character wearing Chinese-style attire, drinking Chinese liquor, and eating Chinese foods like mooncakes and dumplings.

Even K-Pop superstars BTS found themselves drawn into the controversy.

In June, when a program featuring the band translated kimchi as 'pao cai' in the Chinese subtitles, many South Korean netizens erupted in anger. Comments accused the translation of promoting Chinese pao cai.

Naver, South Korea’s largest search engine and the platform hosting the show, clarified that the translation followed the most recent guidelines issued by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

'We will revise the subtitles once we receive updated guidelines,' a Naver spokesperson told the Korea Herald after the incident.

Around a month later, the ministry released its updated guidelines on the use of 'xinqi,' bringing the situation back to the present day.

What makes this time different?

Some companies have already responded to the name change.

Naver’s translation tool has updated the Chinese translation of kimchi to 'xinqi.' On the Chinese website of the global South Korean food brand Bibigo, the kimchi product page now also features 'xinqi' as the translation.

However, the new name doesn’t seem to have gained favor with either Chinese or Korean netizens.

On the Chinese social media platform Weibo, most comments about the new name are negative. Some users reject the term, arguing that kimchi is a dish influenced by Chinese pao cai. Others acknowledge the difference but dislike being told how to translate kimchi into Chinese.

'I don’t understand why we should adopt the translation 'xinqi' proposed by Koreans. Shouldn’t language evolve based on how it’s used?' one user commented.

The attempt to change the name failed in 2013 because most Chinese speakers didn’t adopt the term, notes Chung. It seems unlikely that will change now.

'It’s hard to convince people to adopt a term that has no inherent meaning in Chinese, especially when the two Chinese characters don’t form a recognizable concept, to replace a word they’ve used for years,' says Chung.

Moreover, the name 'xinqi' may not be legally accepted in China.

A document from the Korean government advised South Korean companies exporting kimchi to China to be cautious, as Chinese law requires businesses to use names that are familiar to Chinese consumers.

This means that companies might not be able to use 'xinqi' alone to refer to kimchi; they may still need to label it as pao cai.

The new guidelines stated that the Agriculture Ministry would offer guidance to businesses impacted by the name change, but without providing further details.

'Some argue that Korea is appropriating its own cultural heritage for China, as the pronunciation of 'xinqi' is quite different from 'kimchi.' They contend that since 'kimchi' is already internationally recognized in its Korean form, the government should not create a Chinese term that compromises the authentic Korean pronunciation,' says Chung.

Kim Byeong-gi, a retired professor from Jeonbuk National University, wrote in the Korea Joongang Daily that the new name is 'completely absurd.'

'It’s a huge mistake for the Korean government to come up with such an odd term—'xinqi'—to try to promote kimchi and distinguish it from China’s pao cai. It risks diluting the meaning of kimchi, a name already well-known worldwide,' Kim wrote in his opinion piece.

Given the circumstances, it’s hard to say whether this latest attempt to change kimchi’s Chinese name will be more successful.

But, as Chung puts it, 'It will likely do little to resolve the ongoing cultural conflict' over the iconic dish.