The Pinnacle of Senegalese Hospitality Lies at the Grill

In Senegal, there’s a custom that when someone sits beside you at a meal, you invite them to join you. This gesture reflects teranga, or “hospitality,” in the local Wolof language. Even if the invitee declines — which is also polite — it’s a great way to spark conversation in restaurants. When you visit Dakar, the capital, you’ll find this hospitality everywhere, but it shines brightest at a dibiterie. These inclusive Mytouries serve barbecue, or dibi, to a mix of patrons, from high-ranking officials to construction workers and everyone in between.

Dibi, meaning “grilled meat” in Wolof, encompasses a variety of cooking techniques found throughout West Africa. It features an array of meats, including game such as antelope and wild boar in certain regions, and sometimes fish from Senegal’s extensive coastline. However, in this majority-Muslim nation, lamb is the predominant choice. Dibi also includes diverse cooking styles, from skewers to ribs, depending on the meat. One notable variant is dibi Hausa, thinly sliced and more widely recognized as suya, brought by the Hausa people, the largest ethnic group in West and Central Africa known for their expertise in meat preparation. Each dibiterie adds its unique flair, from marinades to side dishes.

What ties these traditions together is teranga, the warm (often smoky) welcome you receive at a dibiterie. There’s no wrong time to visit, whether you crave your meat during a midday break or late at night after a night out. Just find a seat on a communal bench and watch the flames dance in the oven. It won’t be long before someone invites you to share a meal.

What can you expect from a meal at a dibiterie?

In a classic dibiterie, meat is typically cooked in a clay oven featuring a metal grate positioned over a wood fire. This earthen stove conducts heat similarly to a pizza oven, allowing the chef to expertly arrange the logs for various heat zones — from intensely hot spots directly over the flames to cooler areas benefiting from the embers’ indirect heat — and place different cuts of meat accordingly.

Choose your meat from the grill and place your order, usually by the kilo (though some dibiteries are shifting to set meal prices). Senegalese diners generally prefer their meat well-done; you can request it differently, but be prepared for a raised eyebrow from the chef. Just keep in mind that dibi can take a while to prepare, as cooks start from scratch once you order.

With your meat, you’ll receive a variety of condiments: confiture de piments (spicy chile jam made with onions, garlic, and spices), raw onions, and mustard. Accompaniments can include fried plantains or french fries, but a crusty piece of baguette is almost always served. It’s best to eat with your hands (using only your right hand, as etiquette suggests), though as dibi gains popularity among non-locals, many places will offer a fork if preferred.

For drinks, you can choose from local beers like Gazelle or Flag, along with a variety of regional juices. One popular option is a brew made from raw grated ginger, a sweet yet sweat-inducing concoction that's much stronger than Caribbean ginger beer made from boiled ginger. Another favorite is bissap, a sweet-tart sorrel infusion often found in Senegalese households, adding a refreshing layer to your meal.

What should first-timers do?

In the coziest corner of the oven, near the glowing embers and ash, you might discover delightful little packages of tender meat. Here, cooks create meat en papillote: bone-in cuts that are chopped and marinated with oil, herbs (typically thyme), black pepper, garlic, and mustard (a local twist adapted from French cuisine), then tightly wrapped in kraft paper with onions and a splash of water. As the meat steams slowly for hours, the packets take on a glowing hue from the oil staining the paper. When served, they release an aromatic cloud as they are unwrapped, revealing the most tender meat you can imagine. Even grilled meat is sometimes served in kraft paper, adding to the iconic experience of dining at a dibiterie.

Where to experience it

If you're fortunate, you might receive an invitation to a local's home, where dibi is enjoyed much like an American backyard barbecue. A great time to experience this is during Tabaski, the local celebration similar to Eid al-Adha, when many Muslim families fire up their grills. Otherwise, a variety of dibiteries around Dakar will each offer their unique twist on this beloved dish.

Le Mbote

Nestled in Medina, one of Dakar’s most vibrant neighborhoods, Le Mbote (meaning “lamb” in Wolof) has a pub-like atmosphere and often features live music. However, the true star here is the food, showcasing a variety of classic dibi dishes prepared over an open flame fueled by large logs. Don’t miss the half lamb’s head. Rue 11, Dakar, Senegal

Bant-Yii

Bante-Yii, translating to “wood” in Wolof, looks like something from a film. This dimly lit, worn space hosts a sort of food hall with vendors from across West Africa each offering their unique barbecue styles. Pick the grill that catches your eye, take a seat on one of the low wooden benches, and enjoy the show while you wait for your meal. 7 Av. Jean Jaures, Dakar, Senegal

Dibiterie Chez Roger (also known as Dibiterie Aîcha)

This dibiterie exudes a unique charm with its soft neon lights, ochre walls, and low tin ceilings. Behind a waist-high brick wall lies an open kitchen with a wooden table where a cook wraps orders in kraft paper before serving. The enticing aroma of grilled meat wafts from the wood-fired grill. The menu features a variety of cuts, including offal like liver or tripe, which are locally referred to as lakhass (“knots” in Wolof) due to their braided cooking style. All meat is served by the kilogram directly on kraft paper, and you're encouraged to eat with your right hand. Rue NG 179, Dakar, Senegal

Le Xalam

Situated in the fishing village of Ngor at Dakar's western edge, Le Xalam offers a menu that features grilled fish alongside traditional lamb and chicken cuts. Though it neighbors a nightclub and boasts a stylish decor atypical for a dibiterie, the food is still cooked over an open flame. Popular choices include the tender lamb and the refreshing ginger juice, which you can dilute with water to balance its sweetness and spiciness. Rue YF 39, Dakar, Senegal

Pierre Thiam is a renowned chef from Senegal, celebrated restaurateur, award-winning author, and entrepreneur.