The train journey from Vienna to Saalfelden Leogang nourishes the spirit

Our slow travel series delves into the art of mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – offering insights on how to reach your no-fly destination and discover attractions along the way. In this edition, Petra Loho shares how the train from Vienna to Saalfelden Leogang fosters a rejuvenating weekend of activity and tranquility.

Living in the eastern region of Austria, where wind turbines outnumber the Alps, can intensify the desire for mountainous landscapes.

Fortunately, Austria's compact size means you can satisfy this craving in just a long weekend. Scenic alpine meadows with grazing sheep and cows, sparkling mountain streams, and resilient wildflowers are all just a train ride away.

Since my first school ski trip to Saalfelden at 14, I've developed a deep affection for the area, returning multiple times. Nowadays, I opt for hiking shoes over ski boots, especially since Saalfelden Leogang offers car-free access to hiking trails for all skill levels.

The journey begins: buzzing through Vienna’s Central Station

The first segment of my train adventure on a sunny Saturday morning involved taking the local S-Bahn to Vienna’s Hauptbahnhof, where the Railjet to Saalfelden Leogang was set to depart.

A quick check of the large information board in the main hall confirmed my train's platform number and that it was running on schedule. However, it failed to explain the oversized bee hovering above me.

This stunning creature symbolized the ÖBB Rail Bees initiative, a project by the national railway that establishes habitats for bee colonies across its network. The honey harvest of 2021 was remarkable, enabling ÖBB to distribute over 29,000 servings of delightful ÖBB “rail honey” for long-distance and overnight trains.

The sharp, quick trill of the train conductor’s whistle signaled that my departure was approaching. I settled into the window seat I had booked. (I suggest paying the €3 fee to reserve a seat – just be mindful of the unusual seat-numbering system when booking in advance.)

The experience: relishing Austria’s diverse landscapes

As the train finally departed Vienna and traversed several tunnels, fields of corn began to emerge, interspersed with pumpkin and wheat fields. Fruit trees flanked the roads, while vibrant yellow rapeseed flowers added a burst of color to the lush green and earthy brown landscape.

Gazing at these scenes just outside my window, with the sun gently warming my face, a wave of pride and tranquility washed over me. I could hear the opening lines of the Austrian national anthem in my mind: “Land of mountains, land by the river. Land of fields, land of domes.” Just then, a charming baroque church with a classic onion dome appeared atop a hill.

Midway through the journey, the scenery began to shift. The terrain grew more rugged, revealing the first glimpses of mountains. The stretch between Salzburg and Bischofshofen heightened my anticipation, framed by jagged rocks and a waterfall cascading beneath a soaring arched bridge.

My favorite stop was the Zell am See station, where the train rolled along the lakeshore, offering a clear view of the lively scene: sailing boats gliding across the water and swimmers leaping into the refreshing depths to cool off from the heat.

As we neared Zell am See, it was evident that our journey was drawing to a close, with our final destination of Saalfelden Leogang just moments away.

The arrival: an instant invitation to hike

We pulled into Saalfelden train station just minutes past the 2:30pm scheduled time. Before stepping out, I paused to inhale the crisp mountain air and cheerfully greeted the peaks – a simple yet fulfilling ritual that signals my arrival.

After being stationary for most of the four-and-a-half-hour journey, my body yearned for movement. Following a quick check-in at my guest house, I embarked on a two-hour stroll to stretch my legs and prepare them for the hike around the 1762m (5780ft) Asitzhöhe – affectionately known by locals as the “mountain of the senses.”

How to make it happen

Ticket prices vary based on when and where you purchase them – booking early and minimizing changes will help you save. Check prices by booking online or through the ÖBB app. I made a last-minute booking and paid €63 for my economy class ticket to my destination, and €53 for the return in first class.

You can take your bicycle on the Railjet by reserving a spot for €3. If you prefer to travel light, consider using the door-to-door bike and luggage shipping service offered for ÖBB routes in Austria, South Tyrol, and Germany.