The Ultimate Guide to Breakfast in Beirut
It’s 8 a.m. in Beirut, and the city is still. After a night of perhaps too many Almaza beers, breakfast becomes a crucial pick-me-up. Many locals start their day with pine nut-studded biscuits and a strong Turkish coffee or Nescafé with Nido, a powdered milk from World War II that has become a cherished tradition.
At the man’oushe and kaak stalls scattered across the city, strong coffee and hot ovens await the morning rush. Grab a quick kanafeh sandwich or enjoy a more relaxed breakfast with fette, ful, or eggs with awarma. Lebanese breakfast habits might just make you rethink your own morning routine, and these six breakfast essentials will quickly make you feel like a local.
Man’oushe at Fern Bakery Photo by Emily Elyse MillerMan’oushe
Note: This is definitely not a pizza, despite its appearance. While it’s round and topped with cheese and meat, it belongs in its own category. These delightful flatbreads, baked on a dome-shaped oven or saj, are called man’oushe in the plural. Start at a local fern (neighborhood bakery) with the classic za’atar blend of thyme, sumac, and sesame seeds. For an upgrade, ask for it ‘cocktail style’ with a layer of melted akawi cheese. Alternatively, try kishik (dried yogurt with bulgur wheat) often featuring bits of tomato.
Streetside man’oushe in Beirut Photo by Emily Elyse MillerWhere to find it:
Paradise Four Manakish Bakery (Deir El Qamar) – No address available. Ask for directions when in Deir El Qamar. This bakery, located about an hour from the city, specializes in fresh za’atar manakish and a unique man’oushe with a rim to hold the lamb confit and egg filling.
Fern Ghattas – Gouraud/Gemayzeh Street, near Saint Antoine Church, Beirut. Look for the small spot with a bright green sign. Don’t miss their signature three-cheese man’oushe and the spinach fatayer, a pastry usually filled with meat or spinach.
Snack FaysalBliss Street, across from the police station, Hamra Situated on Bliss Street in Hamra, next to the American University of Beirut, this 24/7 spot caters to students in need of a late-night or early-morning bite.
Furn Emm Salim (Anfeh)No Address Located in the Tahet el Rih resort in Anfeh, about an hour from Beirut, this hidden gem offers delectable egg man’oushe and korban bread without any visible signage.
Kaak
This purse-shaped, sesame-encrusted flatbread is the perfect grab-and-go snack, featuring a handy built-in handle for easy carrying. Found hanging on wooden racks at street kiosks, kaak is typically split open, filled with Picon cheese (similar to Laughing Cow), and sprinkled with za’atar, all for around $1 each.
Kaak from Kaak B Semsom Photo: Kaak B Semsom / FacebookWhere to find it:
Street Vendors Galore Enjoy kaak with Picon cheese and a sprinkle of za’atar from street vendors scattered throughout the city.
Kaak B Semsom Main Street, Jal el Dib In the heart of Zahle, Beirut, this spot features bright yellow counters serving up delicious kaak, usually accompanied by labneh. Choose from various fillings, with the cheese mix being a popular choice.
Fern Ghattas Gouraud/Gemayzeh Street, across from Saint Antoine Church, Beirut With an array of savory and sweet kaak options and a diverse selection of man’oushe and small bites, this bakery is a must-visit every day of the week.
Abou Arab Highway, Khalde, Aley District Located just south of Beirut, this branch of a well-loved bakery chain offers an authentic Lebanese bakery experience with simplicity and quality.
Knafeh in Beirut Photo by Emily Elyse MillerKanafeh Sandwich
Kanafeh features a lavish layer of sweet cheese encased in sugar-soaked pastry, baked to perfection. This treat is then cut into squares, generously drenched in rose syrup, and wrapped in a small kaak, creating a delectable cheese-filled delight.
Pre-stuffed Kanafeh from Safsouf Pastries Photo: Safsouf Pastries / FacebookWhere to find it:
Safsouf Pastries Main Street, facing Blom Bank, Tariq el Jdide, Beirut DistrictThis beloved local bakery offers an unmissable kanafeh sandwich.
Hallab 1881 Multiple locationsAt Lebanon’s most renowned sweet shop, you can savor a coffee while sampling treats and observing the creation of elegantly packaged sweets — including kanafeh sandwiches for your journey home.
Knafeh Al-Karout Chehade Street, Zaidaniyye, Aicha Bakkar, Beirut DistrictThis modest shop is dedicated to perfecting kanafeh, meticulously crafting each element from cheese to syrup.
Fatteh
In the realm of hearty bowl dishes, fatteh reigns supreme with its time-tested recipe. It starts with a crispy layer of Lebanese bread, followed by a generous serving of stewed chickpeas, and topped with rich, salted garlic yogurt that fills every nook and cranny.
Sauté some almond slivers and pine nuts in lamb fat (almost healthy!), then finish with a layer of crispy chips and a splash of olive oil. Don’t miss out on the dibis—a date syrup and tahini blend that will soothe your garlic-bombed taste buds.
Fatteh from Al-Soussi Photo by Emily Elyse MillerWhere to find it:
Al-Soussi Zeidaniyeh Street, Mar EliasSince 1975, Al-Soussi has been a hub for great food and conversation. The owner will personally take your order and then head straight to the kitchen to prepare your meal.
Mikhael Restaurant Monot Street, Saifi, AchrafiehEstablished in 1929, this is one of the few places in town to enjoy fatteh made with fresh arishé (cheese) and homemade yogurt.
Le Professeur Maalouf Street, Mar EliasSituated close to the Lebanese International University, this spot excels in breakfast favorites like fatteh, ful, and msabbaha, which combines hummus with stewed chickpeas and fava beans.
Ful Medames
A staple breakfast dish throughout the Middle East, ful medames features stewed fava beans seasoned with olive oil and lemon juice, served alongside onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, and herbs.
In Lebanon, this fava bean dish is enriched with balila, a mix of stewed chickpeas flavored with garlic, cumin, and pine nuts. A simpler version, msabbaha, blends balila with tahini, accompanied by fresh vegetables.
Ful from Le Professeur Photo: Le Professeur / FacebookWhere to find it:
Al-SoussiZeidaniyeh Street, Mar EliasDon't miss the chickpea-filled specialties at Al-Soussi; bring friends to enjoy their fatteh and eggs awarma as well.
Le Professeur Maalouf Street, Mar EliasHere, you can find over ten variations of fava bean stew, with options like boiled eggs, ghee, and stewed chickpeas.
Abou Hassan Mar Youssef Street, BeirutJust a short stroll east from the lively Mar Mikhael area, Abou Hassan is renowned for its authentic ful and its unique twist on fatteh with tahini mixed into the yogurt.
Preparing eggs with awarma at Al-Soussi Photo by Emily Elyse MillerEggs Awarma
Combining lamb confit with scrambled eggs creates one of breakfast's most extraordinary dishes. Though it might seem unusual, the gaminess of the confit, or awarma, blends seamlessly with eggs for a taste that's both familiar and comforting. Try it at Beirut's top breakfast spots, Al-Soussi and Le Professeur, where the awarma is so irresistible that you'll be tempted to claim the last bite.
Eggs with awarma from Al-Soussi Photo by Emily Elyse MillerWhere to find it:
Kawkab CedarsMain Street, Cedars, BcharreThis laid-back café, nestled in a scenic mountain range, crafts awarma and other dishes from scratch. It's the perfect spot to refuel before a hike through the cedars.
Al-Soussi RestaurantZeidaniyeh Street, Mar EliasWatch as the chef-owner flambés your dish in the open kitchen, blending lamb, fat, and eggs into a mouthwatering masterpiece.
Le ProfesseurMaalouf Street, Mar EliasThis beloved breakfast spot serves an array of dishes, including generous portions of lamb and eggs, filling every inch of your table.
Arishé with Honey
About an hour from Beirut, the Beqaa Valley is renowned for its fresh produce and artisanal delights. Here, you’ll discover arishé, a fresh farmer’s cheese paired with local honey and wrapped in a warm, soft flatbread that's more flexible than man’oushe and incredibly satisfying.
Jarjoura’s Arishé with honey Photo by: Emily Elyse MillerWhere to find it:
Jarjoura Highway, Ain SaadeMake a stop here on your way to the Beqaa. Just minutes apart on either side of a bustling highway, both Laiterie Massabki (below) and Jarjoura are renowned for their fresh cheeses, including arishé and labneh. A visit to both is highly recommended.
Laiterie MassabkiDamascus Road, Chtaura, Zahle DistrictIf you didn’t get your fill earlier, make sure to stop by on your return trip from the Beqaa for more delectable cheese offerings.
Mikhael Monot Monot Street, Saifi, AchrafiehServing house-made yogurt and cheese since 1929, this is the go-to spot in Beirut for arishé, labneh, and fatteh.
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