The world’s top chefs are heading to the Philippines

Over four and a half centuries ago, the galleon trade connected Asia to the wider world, with key routes like the one between Manila in the Philippines and Acapulco in Mexico.

Alongside passengers, raw goods, porcelain, and silk, an assortment of unique ingredients were introduced, destined to both surprise and intrigue foreign tastes on both sides of the Pacific.

To commemorate the 450th anniversary of this early culinary exchange, the Philippine capital recently hosted the second edition of Madrid Fusion Manila.

This year's culinary congress, held in mid-April, brought together some of the globe’s most renowned chefs, rare ingredients, and enthusiastic food lovers for three days of discussions, tastings, and live demonstrations.

Here are the top eight highlights and key takeaways from this year’s event.

1. Chef Joan Roca? He’s still the reigning champion.

By virtually every measure, there’s no chef more accomplished or influential in the world today than Catalan culinary genius Joan Roca.

As one of the three brothers behind El Celler de Can Roca, located in a working-class neighborhood of Girona, north of Barcelona, the charismatic eldest sibling brought a serious culinary force to Manila.

With three Michelin stars and ranked at the top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, his achievements stand unmatched.

A standout moment during his Manila demonstration was a remarkable creation of cotton candy, designed to resemble wool using techniques like centrifuges and a rotary evaporator.

He finishes the dish with an essence of sheep’s wool extract, delicately placing it on top of ice cream made from Catalan sheep’s milk.

Strange yet genius.

2. Lechon deserves more recognition.

Filipinos love discussing food almost as much as they enjoy eating it – and this includes lively debates over the country’s national dish.

While many would argue that adobo – a slow-cooked dish of braised pork and chicken in vinegar, spices, and soy sauce – is the national favorite, others, particularly outside the capital, would point to roast suckling pig, also known as lechon.

In 2008, Anthony Bourdain famously called it the 'best pig ever,' and after one bite, it’s easy to understand why.

At Madrid Fusion Manila, the simple roast pig on a spit was elevated to new levels by 'Lechon Diva' Dedet de la Fuente.

The chef behind Manila’s Pepita’s Kitchen stuffs the pig with a variety of ingredients, including truffle rice and the indulgent paella made with chorizo and crab fat, locally known as aligue.

Pepita’s Kitchen, Magallanes Ave, Makati, Metro Manila, Philippines; +63 2 425 4605

3. Yoshihiro Narisawa is truly deserving of all the praise.

Japanese culinary legend Yoshihiro Narisawa was another iconic chef featured at Madrid Fusion Manila.

Owner of the acclaimed Narisawa restaurant, the incredibly skilled Aichi native has played a leading role in championing sustainable gastronomy, emphasizing the vital link between food and environmental preservation.

Dishes like 'essence of the forest' and 'soil soup' reflect his culinary philosophy, while he amazed Manila audiences with a series of dishes featuring spring sakura blossoms.

His dessert, 'sakura and rice,' showcased sakura honey, flowers, and jelly, all nestled beneath fresh sakura leaves.

4. Chef collaborations are becoming a permanent fixture.

Lucky diners had a wealth of top-tier dining choices during the congress, courtesy of Gallery Vask.

Led by Spanish chef Jose 'Chele' Gonzalez, the stylish restaurant hosted several collaborative dinners throughout the week, underscoring a growing global trend.

The highlight of the event was a 'six-hands dinner' featuring three chefs: Narisawa, Gonzalez, and Peruvian culinary genius Virgilio Martinez.

Notable dishes included Narisawa’s stunning 'Tokyo ceviche,' made with local Filipino fish, yuzu, and kombu, while Martinez brought in ingredients from Peru, such as edible clay and lucuma fruit, creating an unforgettable and unique dessert.

5. The chef we all dream of working with? Leah Cohen.

With a Filipina mother and a Russian-Romanian father, Leah Cohen’s heritage spans continents, much like the unique flavors she creates in her dishes.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, the New York-based chef has earned widespread acclaim for the bold Southeast Asian street food flavors at her restaurant, Pig and Khao.

Voted New York's best Asian restaurant by Zagat, her menu includes a variety of Vietnamese, Thai, and Filipino dishes, including her own distinctive version of adobo.

She showcased her adobo recipe at the Congress, replacing the usual chicken or pork with fried quail, and adding a surprising twist with Szechuan peppercorns.

By the end of her session, there was a line of people eager to work for her.

6. The Power of Souring Agents

While last year's Madrid Fusion Manila focused on the controversial allure of tuna sperm, this year’s spotlight was on the dynamic world of souring agents.

A cornerstone of Filipino cuisine, souring agents have gained international popularity and are now featured in top restaurants around the world.

One of the most beloved Filipino dishes, sinigang is a sour, tangy soup that incorporates a variety of souring agents, such as green mango, batwan fruit, tamarind, or calamansi—ingredients that were celebrated by chefs throughout the congress.

The top contender for the ultimate sour Filipino ingredient is kamias, a soft, yellow-green fruit that will make your taste buds pucker in no time.

7. The New Wave of Mexican Cuisine

After notable chefs from Spain and Japan, a Mexico City-based chef took the stage, quickly establishing himself as the global ambassador of modern Mexican cooking.

Chef Jorge Vallejo dropped out of high school to work as a dishwasher, unknowingly stepping into a culinary journey that would shape his future.

He won the crowd’s hearts by sharing his deep admiration for the Philippines, a place where he had worked alongside Filipinos in kitchens aboard international cruise ships.

Vallejo later trained under Enrique Olvera in Mexico City before opening Quintonil with his wife in 2012, a restaurant renowned for its innovative take on traditional Mexican home cooking.

This was his first time visiting the Philippines.

"I arrived at dawn and the city was already buzzing with energy at 5 a.m. – I immediately thought, this feels like Mexico! This is Acapulco! While the people’s faces clearly reflect an Asian heritage, there’s still a certain resemblance to the Mexican people," he shared.

"I also realized that the influence of the Manila Galleon is still very much alive, with so many similarities between Mexico and the Philippines. And of course, we both share a love for chicharron pork crackling!"

8. Global Flavors, Local Ingredients

British chef Nurdin Topham, from the Hong Kong-based restaurant Nur, was among several chefs who showcased the unique appeal of Filipino ingredients.

His rendition of the traditional English dish, strawberries and cream, was made entirely with locally sourced ingredients.

He combined four-week-old fermented buffalo yogurt with cultured cream, infused with rose and geranium essential oils, and paired it with rare, late-season Filipino strawberries.

Throughout the congress, many ingredients, often thought to be staples of one culture's cuisine, were revealed to have originated from entirely different parts of the world.

So, the next time you indulge in Mexican mole, remember that it owes its distinctive flavor to cinnamon, a spice that didn’t exist in Mexico until it was brought over by the galleons centuries ago.