This Airbnb's Infinity Pool May Boast the Most Stunning View in Portugal’s Douro Valley

Just before the pandemic hit, my friends Katie and Mike relocated to London, anticipating weekends filled with European getaways. But then came the lockdowns, which hindered their plans and kept them apart from loved ones during a global crisis. So, when restrictions began to ease, we organized a Thanksgiving mini-reunion in the breathtaking Douro Valley, where our group of six could enjoy fine wine, prepare shared meals, and reconnect after the tumultuous years we had endured.

While we weren't searching for luxury, we came across this three-bedroom farmhouse-turned-villa on Airbnb, nestled among rows of grapevines, citrus and olive trees, as well as abundant rose and lavender bushes—all for under $500. The real gem was the million-euro view from the back: the meandering Douro River, traditionally navigated by rabelo boats transporting port wine barrels to Vila Nova de Gaia’s warehouses, alongside charming red-tiled houses scattered across the verdant landscape, and terraced hillsides filled with vineyards that inspired novelist José Saramago to declare this region “unquestionably the eighth wonder of the world.”

The Setting

Located about a 90-minute drive east of Porto, this property is nestled in the serene village of Folgosa do Douro, primarily residential and perfectly situated between the wineries of Peso da Régua and the historic town of Pinhão. We enjoyed a fantastic lunch at Cozinha da Clara before embarking on a stunning (and surprisingly affordable) wooden yacht ride with Ânima Durius.

Folgosa may be quieter, but it boasts the acclaimed restaurant DOC by chef Rui Paula, whose other venue, Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, holds two Michelin stars. Instead, we chose to celebrate Thanksgiving dinner at the no-frills roadside eatery Douro Jovem in nearby Marmelal, where the homemade wine complemented a simple menu (“Carne ou peixe?”) and the service was genuinely warm—completely free of English.

The only minor drawback of the location: The farmhouse is accessible via a winding, narrow, and bumpy country road that accommodates just one car at a time. I found myself gripping the wheel tightly—the kind of road where you have to lower the music and quiet your friends to focus. According to the listing, the previously gravel road has been paved, which I’m sure would ease some of my worries.

The Interiors

The open-concept layout fosters connection, featuring a large wooden dining table perfect for late-night conversations over presunto (dry-cured ham), cheese, olives, and local wine. We loaded up on bottles at Quinta da Pacheca after a delightful tasting and did our main grocery shopping at a superstore in Lamego, near the stunning Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, famous for its impressive baroque staircase.

I spent a fair amount of time cooking in the snug yet well-equipped kitchen, featuring cheerful mint green cabinets, a refrigerator paneled with wood from local wine crates, and a rug resembling azulejo tiles. The beds—a king, a queen, and two singles in the guest room—were comfy, but the ultimate spot is the deep leather couch, which should come with a warning: If you snuggle up under the teddy-bear-soft faux-fur throws, you’ll be out cold in no time.

Our only grievance: The showers in the two bathrooms are stunning, adorned with Spanish shale and bronze fixtures, but the old plumbing struggled to keep pace with our showering routine. We had to adjust by splitting morning and evening showers to ensure everyone enjoyed hot water.

The Grounds

The vast stone patio features a charming infinity pool perfectly situated for stunning views of the vineyard and the valley beyond. Although it was too chilly for a swim during our November visit, we were fortunate that the pool has been heated this year. Regardless of the season, the lounge chairs and bench provide an ideal setting to unwind with a book and enjoy the sounds of nature.

The best part? The view is ever-changing throughout the day. Each morning, we would wrap up with coffee, capturing photos of the dense fog sweeping through the valley like a freight train. In the softer afternoon light, the grapevines shimmered with golden autumn leaves.

You’re welcome to pick citrus fruits from the trees on the property, but heed this warning: Avoid the temptation to pluck a fresh olive and taste it! Before being brined and cured, olives contain a highly bitter compound called oleuropein that will leave an unpleasant aftertaste all day long. Consider this a friendly warning—I learned the hard way.

The Perks

When you’re not busy exploring the valley’s numerous quintas (wine estates), the villa offers a selection of board games and books, ranging from inspiring coffee table books like Slim Aarons: La Dolce Vita to timeless classics such as Jane Eyre, cookbooks like Zac Posen’s Cooking with Zac, and contemporary novels like Pascal Mercier’s Night Train to Lisbon. While the ambiance is perfect for a romantic getaway or a small friends’ retreat, families can request a crib and a pack ‘n’ play from the host.