This hotel ranks among the finest in Southeast Asia and grants exclusive access to Angkor Wat.

In the pitch black of night, my mother and I race down a dirt road towards Angkor Wat. Moonlight filters through the trees as we journey deeper into the jungle that has safeguarded these temples for centuries. We woke at 4:30 a.m. to be here, nestled together in quiet anticipation at the back of a moped-powered trishaw provided by Amansara.

There’s no wrong approach to exploring Cambodia’s vast network of Khmer temples from the ninth to fourteenth centuries, but entering through a hidden back route to experience it in solitude at the serene blue dawn is a profoundly spiritual journey worthy of the world's largest religious complex.

It’s a rare privilege that only a few experience—unless you’re a guest at Amansara. Recognized as one of the best hotels in Southeast Asia by Dinogo's 2022 World's Best Awards, this resort has provided unmatched access to Siem Reap and the Angkor temples since its inception two decades ago. Once the guesthouse of King Sihanouk, this elegant property has hosted notable figures like Jacqueline Kennedy and former French President Charles de Gaulle, continuing to serve as a refuge for guests after their daily explorations.

Upon our arrival—after being greeted at the airport by the hotel’s vintage Mercedes, which once belonged to a member of the Cambodian royal family—we were warmly welcomed by the incredibly gracious staff, who presented us with chilled lemongrass towels before giving us a tour of the property and leading us to our room.

Just a short 10-minute drive from the temple’s entrance, this property serves as a tranquil retreat: Hidden behind a simple gate, it showcases 1960s New Khmer architecture, crafted from natural materials in earthy tones and dark wood accents, built using local stone.

The name Amansara, meaning 'heavenly peace', becomes increasingly apt as you explore the open-air layout, centered around two grand courtyards adorned with towering trees. The ambiance is one of understated luxury, focusing on carefully chosen details like pink bouquets of intricately folded lotus flowers and an array of freshly baked desserts presented in the dining area. The design principle revolves around simplicity and elegance, featuring geometric shapes such as a circular dining room — once used by the king for film screenings — a curvilinear pool, and a rectangular main courtyard.

As we settled into our room, soft chants filled the air, moving both my mom and me to tears as we absorbed the serene beauty of the black-and-white space, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that opened onto our generous private patio and plunge pool. We wandered around the room, touching everything, in awe of the sleek black writing desk and the sandstone reliefs depicting temples, while playfully trying on colorful shawls and straw hats that were gifts awaiting us. Transitioning from the elevated bedroom to the living area, we discovered the expansive bathroom, where a free-standing tub and rain shower overlooking our pool tempted us each evening after long days exploring the temples.

Our stay was profoundly peaceful; the only challenge during our time at Amansara was deciding how to best utilize our days while fully enjoying their unique, once-in-a-lifetime personalized experiences, such as meditative monk-led forest walks, candlelit dinners by the temples, boat tours of the Tonlé Sap floating village, and insightful guided tours of Angkor Wat.

One of my favorite experiences — aside from exploring the moss-covered ruins of Ta Prohm with our amazing guide — occurred on our final day. We traveled half an hour into the countryside to a local monastery, where a monk offered us a water blessing. What my mom and I envisioned as a gentle sprinkling of water turned into a steady cascade of lotus-infused water accompanied by chanting. Although I don't identify as particularly religious or spiritual, I embraced the feeling of purification, focusing on the lightness that enveloped me after three days spent on the sacred grounds of ancient temples and in the serene haven of our room at Amansara.

On our return drive to the hotel, we stopped just outside the monastery as we caught sight of a stunning sunset. Recently blessed, we were ready to be awed by the everyday miracle of the sky transforming into shades of gold, pink, and purple. As we stood there — our hair still damp and infused with the scent of lotus, the sky reflected in the flooded rice fields before us — we began to hear chants echoing across the plains, and in that moment, I truly felt it — the essence of Amansara, a glimpse of heavenly peace.