This Japanese Island Boasts Thousands of Hot Springs

To dip or not to dip: that’s the easy question in Oita, where bubbling thermal baths born from volcanic activity are everywhere you look. The prefecture’s mineral-rich onsens create a symphony of steam along mountainsides, cliffs, and even street corners. With the most hot spring sources in all of Japan, this region has long been a wellness haven for locals who believe in the healing powers of its waters, yet it remains relatively underexplored by international travelers.

I first heard about Oita from a friend many years ago, and as someone who has always embraced the chance to connect with water, I decided to spend a week immersing myself in Japan’s rich onsen culture. My journey would take me to two destinations: the picturesque town of Yufuin, followed by the coastal city of Beppu.

If you’re unfamiliar with the area, figuring out how to reach Yufuin from elsewhere in Japan can be quite challenging. Thankfully, the team at my hotel—the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko, located in another onsen hotspot two hours north of Tokyo—provided me with detailed bullet train directions before my departure.

Choosing land travel over air to reach Oita allows you to witness the stunning scenery of Kyushu unfold; I was treated to glimpses of forested mountains sprinkled with cedar and cascading waterfalls. Charming cottages perched on golden rice fields, shrouded in bamboo, stood in stark contrast to the towering structures of Tokyo.

A spring-filled haven beneath Mount Yufu

After a few train transfers and six hours, I arrived in Yufuin. The main town square is lined with boutique shops offering sweets and souvenirs, while the twin-peaked Mount Yufu—ideal for both hiking and soaking in onsens—rises majestically to about 5,200 feet. A 10-minute drive along a winding road surrounded by cypress trees led me to the hot spring ryokan Kai Yufuin.

This bamboo-clad retreat, designed by Kengo Kuma & Associates for the Hoshino hospitality brand, harmonizes beautifully with its natural surroundings. Rooted in exquisite craftsmanship, it fits seamlessly into its serene countryside setting within a terraced rice paddy. The low-rise gray and black gable-roofed buildings encompass 45 guest rooms and farmhouse-style villas featuring tatami flooring, alongside a modern onsen bathhouse accessible to guests. The dining area serves artfully crafted kaiseki meals, including a stunning tower of sashimi presented on handcrafted ceramics resembling bamboo stalks and wagyu beef sizzling on a mini grill at the table.

Kai Yufuin is just a short drive from several onsen locations that welcome daytime visitors. Typically, a visit includes a towel, a yukata (traditional robe) for use at the facility, and multiple gender-specific pools. It’s also essential to adhere to general onsen etiquette, such as pre-washing and keeping noise levels down.

Tsukanoma (entrance fee 800 yen, approximately US$6) is situated on Yufuin’s flat river basin. This large outdoor hot spring is replenished in kakenagashi style—drawn directly from a hot spring source without recycling water. Visitors can opt for a meal plan featuring dishes cooked with the steam from the onsen, including boiled eggs and various meats.

At Musoen (entrance fee 1,000 yen, approximately US$8), the main draw is the breathtaking view of Mount Yufu from its nutrient-rich waters. This expansive open-air bath is perched on a hilltop in the Yufuin basin. One of Musoen’s male baths, named Kobo no Yu, is fed by a hot spring that has been flowing for 600 years.

Among all the hot springs I visited in Yufuin, Kai Yufuin’s minimalist gray-scale bathhouse became my absolute favorite. A black pebble path led to a steaming outdoor onsen that offered unobstructed vistas of Mount Yufu. The most enchanting time to go was just before dinner when the sun hung between blooming cherry blossoms and the mountain peak it would soon conceal. My private villa also featured its own onsen, set on a wooden deck overlooking a forest filled with native sawtooth oak trees. Surrounded by the gentle sounds of water and whispering trees, I blissfully spent my final night in Yufuin.

A resort town abundant in onsen

The following morning, a bus ride lasting about an hour took me to Oita’s most renowned onsen resort town: Beppu. This city boasts over 3,000 hot springs, many of which are marked by steam rising from the ground on both streets and mountainsides.

Beppu is also well-known for its 7 Hells of Beppu, or jigoku—hot springs that showcase a spectrum of colors from turquoise to blood red, some of which date back 2,000 years. While all are open for viewing, bathing is prohibited due to the extremely high temperatures of the waters. The fee for entry to one hell is 400 yen, or you can access all seven for 2,000 yen. Five of these hells are found in a neighborhood called Kannawa, where I spent a day exploring the sulfur-scented streets. My favorite was Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)—set in expansive gardens with lily ponds, red torii gate temples, and a cobalt blue onsen bordered by palm trees. Here, you can also sample a local delicacy: an egg cooked in the hot spring steam and water, known as onsen tamago.

Beppu offers an abundance of onsen for those looking to take a dip. For a unique twist, you can visit Beppu Beach Sand Bath (entrance fee 1,500 yen, around US$12), where attendants wrap your body in sodium chloride-rich sand to help open your pores and enhance relaxation. Takegawara (entrance fee 100 yen, US$7) is one of the city’s most iconic and historic onsen, preserving its original gable-roofed design from 1879, reminiscent of the architecture in Hayao Miyazaki’s beloved film Spirited Away. Meanwhile, Myoban Yunosato Kazokuyu (entrance fee 600 yen, about US$5) features silky blue thermal waters bubbling around thatched-roof huts located 1,000 feet above the city. Yunosato also offers four private onsen nestled in bamboo-walled huts, accommodating up to three people (admission 2,000 yen, US$15 per bath for one hour).

Nearby, Okamatoya is a bustling hillside restaurant where patrons eagerly await its signature jigoku-mushi pudding—a custard dessert infused with a slightly bitter caramel sauce, thanks to the hot spring steam used for cooking. Another local delicacy to try is toriten, a light and crispy fried chicken originating from Oita.

After a short five-minute drive from Okamatoya, I arrived at the misty mountainside sanctuary, ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa. The lobby features a dramatic two-story glass wall, showcasing the abundance of hot springs dotting the city. At night, it almost appears as if the city is ablaze, with wisps of steam rising into the dark sky. The 89-room hotel seamlessly merges natural elements with a modern design, highlighted by bamboo art and handcrafted pottery from local Beppu artisans.

Club-level and suite accommodations boast terraces with open-air baths and breathtaking views of Beppu Bay, while the Panorama two-bedroom suite includes its own onsen and tea room. The renowned Thai spa brand Harnn offers wellness treatments such as body brushing and calming foot massages. At the hotel’s intimate 21-seat restaurant, Atelier, French dishes are crafted using local Kyushu ingredients like succulent tomatoes and premium wagyu bungo beef, complemented by wines sourced from regions as distant as Sonoma and Oregon.

My journey concluded cliffside at ANA’s breathtaking outdoor onsen, surrounded by monumental layered stones cascading down the mountainside. As I suspended above the city in this steam-filled haven, my muscles and jawline relaxed in a way I now yearn for, serving as a reminder that I must one day return to Oita’s healing waters.

Getting to Oita

United Airlines provides direct flights to Tokyo’s Haneda airport from both Los Angeles and San Francisco, along with nonstop services from San Francisco to Osaka’s Kansai airport.

Oita is just a 90-minute flight from Tokyo and 60 minutes from Osaka. For train travel, consult your hotel concierge for optimal train routes and schedules from your starting point in Japan. The Yufuin No Mori is a limited express sightseeing train that runs from Fukuoka’s Hakata station in Kyushu to both Yufuin and Beppu. Find out how to get tickets. For additional regional information, check out Visit Kyushu, which offers a wealth of resources.

If you're keen to explore other hot springs across Japan, take a look at Japan-based writer Burcu Basar’s guide to the best onsen in Japan.