This Overnight Train Offers a Rare Glimpse of Peru

Upon my arrival in Cusco to board the Andean Explorer, a luxurious Belmond Train and South America’s first sleeper train, I was eager to indulge myself. It had been 12 days since I began my exploration of Peru; 8 days since I had ventured into the Amazon, where I swam in waters inhabited by snakes and went 4 days without a shower; and 3 days since I attended a 12-hour wedding from which I was still recovering. Now, on a May morning at 10 AM, I found myself in a waiting area, sipping on a drink of chicha morada (purple corn). My passport and ticket had been verified, and my luggage had already been taken care of.

Outside, the train sparkled in royal blue and cream, with Belmond Andean Explorer emblazoned in silver along its side. Belmond staff, dressed in crisp white shirts and tan attire, moved swiftly on and off the train, handling luggage, flowers, and last-minute provisions for our overnight journey southeast to Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at 12,500 feet.

Before our departure, however, we needed a blessing for the journey. Outside the waiting area, three dancers performed a ceremonial dance, and at 10:55, we received the invitation to board the train. The staff guided me and several other guests to the lounge, where we learned more about our upcoming adventure before being escorted to our rooms. Just moments after I settled into my seat, a cheerful waiter arrived with a glass of champagne and two small bowls of nuts and dried fruit. I leaned back in my chair as the train whistled and began its slow, deliberate departure from the station. The pampering had officially begun.

Currently owned and operated by PeruRail, the Andean Explorer originally had its beginnings on another continent: From 1999 to 2003, it was known as the Great South Pacific Express, often referred to as Australia’s “Orient Express” for its route along the eastern coast. In February 2016, it made its way to Peru, receiving a thorough renovation while retaining its original structure—two dining and bar cars, an open-air observation deck in the rear, and accommodations featuring double, twin, and bunk beds. Today, it offers four different journeys lasting one to two nights, with prices starting at $3,238 for single occupancy.

To aid navigation, each public car was assigned a name, predominantly in Quechua, an Indigenous language of central Peru: the piano bar car is called macha (a type of root vegetable), the observation car is known as ichu (Peruvian feathergrass), and the spa is referred to as picaflor (hummingbird in Spanish). My sleeping car is named tara, a small tree species. After the orientation and enjoying my glass of champagne, I followed an attendant down the gently swaying hallways to my cabin.

The space was compact yet elegantly furnished. A leather sofa, which would later convert into my bed, faced a large window, while a plush leather chair sat alongside it, complete with a foot cushion beneath. I settled in, opened the shades, and watched the scenery roll by: verdant fields where farmers paused to wave, and towering peaks with trails disappearing from sight. Soon, it was time to head back to the bar car for lunch: tangy ceviche accompanied by slivers of red onion and crunchy Peruvian corn, which danced gently on the table.

After my meal, I ventured out to the outdoor observation car, which provided panoramic views of the landscape. The train clicked along the meandering Huantay River, and fellow passengers and I courteously vied for the best spots: as the train curved around bends, seemingly doubling back on itself while ascending to higher altitudes. Alpacas paused their grazing to observe us, while farmers tended to their work in the sunlight.

Three and a half hours into our journey, we paused at Raqchi, an ancient Inca site featuring 152 remarkably preserved storage facilities (once used for storing corn and quinoa) arranged in neat rows, alongside the towering Temple of Wiracocha, which reaches a height of 302 feet. Before my trip on the Andean Explorer, I had never even heard of Raqchi. However, as our guide explained how its intentional layout was designed to lead visitors in a zigzag pattern—reflecting elements of Incan cosmology—I realized how little I truly understood about Incan history beyond Machu Picchu. I felt immensely grateful for the opportunity to gain such unique insights during this journey.

Once back on board, it was time for another form of indulgence: a massage. I changed into a robe and slippers and padded down to the spa car, where I chose an Andean mint oil for my treatment and lay face-down. As the massage therapist worked into my back and the train creaked and swayed along the tracks, I drifted into a deep sleep, my final thought being, I really should look out the window.

As my massage concluded, the sun had mostly set, but a soft light lingered when we halted again at 5:45 at the highest elevation of our journey. We disembarked and walked a short distance up a gentle slope to admire the view beyond the train: the La Raya mountain range in the Peruvian Andes, crowned with snow at 14,000 feet. The only illumination came from the glow of the train and the sunset, which cast a stunning golden blue reflection on the carriages. The scene was reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film. I snapped a few photos out of obligation but otherwise stood quietly, gazing at the mountains, cherishing the fact that this moment was truly one I would never experience again.

Dining at such impressive heights was surely a unique experience. I dressed for dinner in a blazer and slacks and strolled down to the piano lounge, where a gathering had formed for cocktail hour—mostly small groups of travelers from Australia, China, and the U.K. Although there was a specially crafted pisco cocktail available—bringing back memories of that 12-hour wedding celebration—I chose a gin and tonic made with Gin’ca, a Peruvian dry gin infused with pink peppercorn, marigold, lemon verbena, and lime. Earlier, one of the bartenders, César, had offered me a taste after I spotted the bottle on the shelf.

Dinner was far from a casual affair: the tablecloths were meticulously ironed, napkins elegantly curled into their rings, candles lit in glass holders, and wine glasses arranged just so. Two fellow travelers, retirees Charles and Kathy from Sydney, Australia, invited me to join them for the meal. As we settled into our curved leather chairs, suited waiters gracefully navigated the narrow, swaying hallway, balancing drink trays with the poise of dancers.

While enjoying cured trout in chestnut milk and suckling pig with green apple puree, we exchanged stories of our travels. My journey was nearing its end, with a flight back to New York in just a day, while Charles and Kathy were only halfway through their South American adventure, with Brazil as their next destination. Despite our different timelines, we all agreed that this train journey had been a highlight, regardless of what lay ahead.

After dinner, I took one last stroll to the back of the train, where I found the observation deck completely to myself. I slid open the doors to the platform and stepped outside, the wind whipping my hair and the evening chill cutting through my clothes. Yet, I lingered, leaning back against the railing and gazing up at the night sky, a dark canvas sprinkled with stars.

The next morning at 5 AM was nearly as dark when I awoke to join a few other passengers for a sunrise viewing over Lake Titicaca, which we had arrived at late the previous night. As the largest freshwater lake in the world, Titicaca is also believed to be the birthplace of the Incas. I stepped off the train and walked a few paces to its edge. As the sun began to rise over the horizon, slowly illuminating the landscape, I reflected on standing in a place of such enduring significance, one that will exist long after I am gone.