Top dining spots around the globe, as recommended by a leading zero-waste chef in London
If you haven't come across Silo, the world's pioneering zero-waste fine-dining establishment, you may not have visited London recently.
The restaurant, originally launched in Brighton and relocated to East London in 2019, has no trash cans on the premises. All ingredients come in reusable packaging, the team mills their own flour for bread, and they ferment, brew, or compost all food waste.
We spoke with Douglas McMaster, owner of Silo – chef, author, presenter, and pioneer of “radical sustainability” – about his love for travel, dining out, and the critical importance of integrating sustainability into all our endeavors.
Tips for discovering great eateries in a new city
So how does Douglas find a great spot to eat or drink while traveling? We mistakenly thought that sustainability was his main criterion for dining choices. Instead of relying on the usual “best, most sustainable restaurants” lists, which often feature places that don't quite live up to their claims, Douglas seeks out passion.
“Dining out is a luxury, so I aim for truly good restaurants. I believe that when there is reverence in every detail, that approach to sustainability is just as impactful,” he shares.
Silo, the zero-waste restaurant located in the Hackney Wick area of London“I recently heard a fantastic quote at this symposium [the Schwarzenegger Climate Initiative’s Austrian World Summit]: ‘Passion is the greatest form of renewable energy,’” he adds. “I love that sentiment.
“I assess what’s on offer and hope to find some degree of care and compassion for the environment. There are still so few places that truly embrace sustainability, and reliable information is hard to come by.”
To put it simply, Douglas emphasizes that he’s seeking out individuals “who genuinely care… The places I choose truly value their mission, and that’s what resonates with me.”
Begin with specialty coffee shops
If you haven’t had a chance to plan ahead before arriving in a new city, Douglas’s top recommendation for discovering venues that prioritize their values is to seek out specialty coffee shops. (Another insider tip: Dinogo Planet’s website and guidebooks are excellent starting points.)
“Specialty coffee shops are fantastic because the people in the coffee industry are passionate,” Douglas states. “These shops often serve as hubs for a city’s creative communities. Typically, coffee shops are among the first commercial establishments to open. From there, I explore the surrounding restaurants and bars.”
Top sustainable dining destinations
Keeping that in mind, Douglas revealed his favorite dining experiences from the past few years—each driven by genuine passion.
“While all restaurants must be financially viable, I seek a deeper motivation, a vision, or an idea to believe in. That’s what draws me in,” he explains. “When I dine out, I’m almost forgiving of a meal that isn’t perfectly executed if the intention is sincere. “I’ve fallen in love with what these places are doing, and I’ll carry those memories for a lifetime.”
For his top selections, McMaster was captivated by “ambitions that were so radical, bold, and beautiful that the entire experience was unforgettable. “In today’s world, fine dining often prioritizes perfection, which reflects a superficial notion of success. There’s a risk of a one-dimensional perspective in the industry, but I appreciate diversity. Nature teaches us that diversity is beneficial; it fosters strength and an exciting, dynamic existence. I believe this list features individuals who set themselves apart from the mainstream,” McMaster elaborates.
In no particular order, here are Douglas McMaster’s top restaurant recommendations from London’s culinary revolution.
St. JOHN's Bone Marrow is an iconic dish in London’s culinary landscape © Sam A HarrisSt. JOHN, London, United Kingdom
“St. JOHN is the most significant British restaurant in history. Its reputation speaks for itself. Some of my fondest dining experiences in London have involved delightful offal in this pristine, white-walled haven.”
Ernst, Berlin, Germany
“Berlin is a vibrant and innovative city for creative gastronomy. The team at Ernst exemplifies the farm-to-table concept beautifully. This exquisite eight-seat venue showcases the art of natural farming, blending unmistakable Japanese influences with a nomadic flair.”
Pearl Morrisette, Niagara, Canada
“Perhaps Canada’s best-kept culinary secret: Pearl Morrisette. This remarkable restaurant rarely gets the spotlight it deserves. Nestled in a luxurious contemporary barn in Niagara, it delivered one of my most unforgettable meals. It’s another farm-to-table gem, with the food grown right in the lush wine region.”
Le Doyenné, a farm-to-table gem located south of ParisLe Doyenné, Île-de-France, France
“In a similar vein, Le Doyenné embodies the farm-to-table ethos with a strong commitment to self-sufficiency; they have their own forest that transports you to a Jurassic Park-like setting, where instead of dinosaurs, you’ll find pigs as large as dinosaurs.”
Saint Peter, Sydney, Australia
“One of the most groundbreaking advancements in sustainable gastronomy is Josh Niland’s nose-to-tail fish butchery, Saint Peter in Paddington, Sydney. It has revolutionized the fish dining experience with a fresh perspective. This venue truly deserves the acclaim it receives.”
Lisbon's SEM offers a laid-back seven-course tasting menu with a strong focus on fermented foods.SEM, Lisbon, Portugal
“SEM introduces a fresh wave of sustainability to Lisbon’s traditional culinary landscape. Its authentically vibrant, creative, and mouthwatering dishes highlight fermentation. I believe Lisbon is in for a delightful surprise.”
Den Vandrette, Copenhagen, Denmark
“This is the iconic natural wine bar revered by all other natural wine establishments. I’ve lost count of how many bottles I’ve fallen for here. Created by the eccentric wine maestro Sune Rosforth, it’s customary for him to serve wine in one of the many goat horns adorning the walls.”
Lovebirds, New York City, USA
“This newly opened spot is set to make waves in New York’s dining scene. With an eccentric all-female team and undeniable commitment to sustainability, Lovebirds is at the top of my list.”
Our conversation wrapped up with some reflections on the challenges that hinder more people from embracing the radical changes that Silo has achieved, such as completely eliminating food waste.
“If everyone truly had a stake in the game – that game being sustainability – we could resolve everything instantly.”
To learn more, check out Douglas McMaster’s latest initiative in sustainability, the Zero Waste Cooking School.
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