Traveling from Bordeaux to the Pyrenees by train, bike, and hiking trail (car-free)

Our slow travel series delves into how to embark on mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – complete with tips for reaching your no-fly destination and what to experience along the way. In this piece, Christopher GJ Cooley shares how hiking in the Pyrenees can be accomplished via bicycle and high-altitude train.

Residing in Bordeaux, I've long been drawn to the majestic peaks, glacial lakes, and rugged cirques of the nearby Pyrenees. The solitude found in this mountainous region – so close yet challenging to access – speaks volumes about its remoteness.

However, it’s not out of reach. I decided to spend a weekend exploring these stunning peaks by combining cycling and hiking — aided by a few well-placed trains. This was my first solo adventure of ‘bike and hike.’ Here’s how I managed it.

Catching the train to Pau

I wheel my bike into a quiet carriage, a hiking backpack awkwardly sticking out from one of the pannier bags. My destination? Pau, dubbed the 'Gateway to the Pyrenees' for its extensive rail connections. I secure my bike with an elastic strap and claim a window seat. As we slowly depart from Bordeaux’s rusty rail yard, we pass by old freighters. I lean back with a good book, ready for the two-hour journey south. Outside, dense dark pines create the vast, flat forests of the Landes.

Cycling onward to Artouste Fabrèges

After getting off the train, I hop onto the bike path heading south from Pau and pass by a hedge trimmer, enveloped by the strong scent of freshly cut grass and wild mint: a small yet unforgettable experience you won’t find in a car. I soon arrive at the unmissable Cave de Jurançon winery at Gan, where I can taste the local sweet white wine. As the sun breaks through, I venture onto the narrow roads that lead up to the hills where Jurançon grapes flourish. After cycling 12 miles (20km), I take the designated path leading to the Ossau Valley. (For those wanting to reduce their ride, you can join this route at Buzy-en-Béarn station, accessible by a different train from Pau.)

As the path transitions to gravel, a mist envelops the valley ahead, followed by a downpour. Upon reaching Laruns, I seek refuge in an old public washhouse, waiting for the worst of the storm to pass. Once the rain subsides, I venture under overhanging cliffs into a gorge, beginning my ascent to my first stop: a nostalgic thermal resort known as Eaux-Chaudes.

This intriguing village clings to the edge of a ravine, with the Gave d’Ossau’s waters crashing loudly below. Aside from the quirky, Wes Anderson-style spa complex, there’s not much else – just a few seemingly abandoned homes. Fortunately, I stumble upon La Caverne, a lively establishment that becomes my perfect base camp. As night falls, this hostel-bar-restaurant buzzes with a colorful mix of characters: scruffy Spanish climbers hauling boxes of nylon ropes and carabiners, German motorcyclists on a tour, a handball team bonding before a match, a lone mountaineering guide enjoying dinner in flip-flops, and a few retirees requesting flambéed bananas off the menu.

I’m roused by a herd of cows passing by, their bells ringing out an off-key morning symphony of alpine jazz. Back on the bike, I begin the climb, the cool air invigorating me. The sun gradually rises, lighting up the first forested peaks as the canyon road winds along the river. This marks the beginning of the Col du Pourtalet (a favorite among Tour de France enthusiasts). It’s one of the most picturesque road ascents I’ve ever experienced, adorned with waterfalls, fields of vibrant wildflowers, and charming hamlets featuring fromageries selling sheep’s cheese.

As the road twists and turns, glimpses of snow-capped peaks appear between the trees. (It’s nearly midsummer, so those must be quite high to still be covered in snow.) Eventually, I diverge from the Col du Pourtalet route and navigate around Lac de Fabrèges: a nine-mile (15km) stretch with a gentle incline and a total elevation gain of 1935ft (590m). It takes just over two hours, including numerous stops for photos. Upon arriving at the lakeside ski station, I begin switching my gear from pannier bags to a hiking rucksack, then secure my bike to the railing opposite the ticket booth.

Ascending further via a mountain railway, followed by a hike

The station exudes a tranquil atmosphere, bustling just enough with people to feel lively. First, a ski lift whisks me up to the train ‘platform’ – and the magnificent Pic du Midi comes into view, towering into the clouds. After a brief wait, I hop aboard the Train d’Artouste: Europe’s highest narrow-gauge train.

As we pass through a tunnel, the scenery transforms dramatically; melting snow carves white streaks down the mountainsides into the Soussouéou valley. The lively little engine accelerates unexpectedly. A pair of marmots darts up the hillside alongside the tracks. The landscape continually evolves, growing ever more breathtaking as we wind deeper into the mountain range. With sheer drops just inches from the narrow tracks, it becomes clear why wearing seatbelts is mandatory.

We make a stop, and two railway workers attend to the rails – either making adjustments or repairs! Then we’re off again, with a classic choo-choo around yet another dizzying bend. The journey lasts about an hour, yet it feels shorter with all the captivating sights. This six-mile (10km) train line was initially constructed to transport workers and materials to the Artouste dam site; here, everyone disembarks.

At the end of the line, a map shows trails of various difficulties, offering options for everyone. I've resolutely chosen a challenging, unsigned path that ascends to the Batboucou lakes. After crossing the dam, a faint trail quickly branches steeply upwards. Upon reaching the first ridge, I notice purple thistles and white blossoms amid the wiry grasses, accompanied by the fragrant scent of thyme in the air.

I navigate around the smaller lake, then carefully balance on stepping stones to cross a rushing stream. Eventually, I ascend a rocky knoll and enter a hollow amphitheater, surrounded by rugged cliffs and loose scree, where solitude thrives. The only flat surface is the clear water of the larger lake. The sun reflects off patches of pristine white snow, which then vanishes as storm clouds creep over the ridge. As the rain begins, I loop back around the big lake, feeling exhilarated. Jumping between boulders, I feel like a child again, exploring freely. I return to the tracks just before the last train departs, as visibility fades to just a few meters.

Waterproof tarps have been spread over the open train cars, blocking our view of the clouds and allowing droplets to fall on our heads. Despite this, I find comfort huddled in our little train. As we descend on the ski lift, I quickly reorganize my panniers, observed curiously by my fellow passengers.

As I glide back down the hot, steaming road, rain continues to pour. Cold drafts rush from roaring waterfalls, causing the temperature to shift dramatically against my skin. I arrive at Louvie-Juzon, drenched and muddy, where a gîte d’étape with a hot shower awaits me. I enjoy a hearty, home-cooked meal alongside a lively group of Basque cyclists and a solitary Italian pilgrim on his journey to Santiago de Compostela.

The next morning, I take a short, dry ride back to Pau, my legs aching but filled with the satisfaction of a weekend well spent as I await the train home.

How to bring your adventure to life

Bringing your bicycle on the train

Taking your bike on regional TER trains is free of charge, but reservations aren’t allowed. When the train is at capacity, it’s full, so it’s crucial to arrive early. For the Train d’Artouste, advance reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak season.

Dining options

At Artouste Fabrèges, you’ll find several lakeside restaurants and one perched atop the ski lift, aptly named Le Panoramic. Additionally, there’s a small restaurant bar at the base of the Artouste dam where you can grab a bite, eliminating the need to pack a picnic.

Amenities along the route

Make sure to utilize lockers during your journey. I stored all my biking gear in one to lighten my load for the hike. For just €2, you can get a key at the ticket office located at the base of the ski lift. The lockers are found at the top in a room labeled “Salle hors sac.”

If I had the chance to do it all over again, I would aim to dodge the storms! However, regardless of the forecast, mountain weather can shift rapidly. Therefore, it’s wise to be prepared for any situation.