Traveling from London to Barcelona: Discover why opting for a night train through Paris is preferable to high-speed options.

A multi-stop journey from London to Barcelona, passing through Paris and the Pyrenees, is a paradise for train enthusiasts.

On a tranquil, sunlit morning high in the Pyrenees, I experienced a fleeting moment of total escape from the modern world.

I found myself at an international border, obstructed to vehicles by a chaotic pile of stones and rubble. It was odd to encounter such an out-of-the-way location on my journey – traveling almost in a straight line between three major European cities – yet luck and a thirst for adventure had led me to this eerie, abandoned frontier post.

Anyone familiar with the travel history between France and Spain might assume I arrived at Canfranc, the massive, abandoned border station tucked away in the mountains that separate the two nations. (This station lay dormant for decades before transforming into a luxurious hotel.) In reality, I was 200 kilometers (125 miles) further east, just a short walk from the international station of Latour-de-Carol–Enveitg, named after the two nearby villages.

Surrounded by steep gray-green mountains and rolling farmland below, I stepped past a makeshift barricade (a leftover from COVID restrictions that had been forgotten) and took a few steps into Spain. I then crossed back, reflecting briefly on the arbitrary nature of a national border. Soon, it was time to head back to the station for my next connection.

Traveling from London to Paris is straightforward; from there, many of Europe’s fantastic cities are just a quick journey away. Most travelers between France and Spain opt for the high-speed TGV, which speeds through Nîmes, Montpellier, and into Catalonia, eventually arriving in Barcelona via Girona and Figueres. However, great adventures aren't always about speed. The alternative route, though less traveled, offers great value. So after my usual trip from St Pancras International in London to Gare du Nord in Paris, I decided to enjoy a leisurely afternoon walk across the city to the grand entrance of Austerlitz station instead of catching the RER to Gare de Lyon.

Even amid extensive renovations, this station has much to admire. Its absence of high-speed trains creates a tranquil atmosphere compared to other Parisian stations, and it’s conveniently close to the attractions of the Fifth Arrondissement, including the Jardin des Plantes, Paris Mosque, and the lively bars and restaurants near Jussieu metro station. This area is perfect for a nightcap before heading south in the evening.

A delightful overnight experience for travelers

Like many sleeper trains throughout Europe, the French Intercités de Nuit services are experiencing a resurgence as travelers, rail companies, and governments recognize the convenience, environmental advantages, and sheer joy of dozing off while traveling. Routes that were once canceled, such as the one from Paris to Nice, are being restored, with additional plans in the pipeline. The journey I took, from Paris to Latour-de-Carol, is among the only two French routes that remained operational, stretching to the high-altitude regions and serving as a crucial link to the capital for distant French residents.

This train turned out to be a delight for passengers. Departing promptly, we traveled at a relaxed overnight pace toward Toulouse, the fifth-largest city in France and a gateway to the southern regions. As dawn arrived, we navigated the beautiful valley of the Ariège River, with the breathtaking scenery becoming more pronounced as the Pyrenees unfolded in their majestic splendor. At several stops along the final scenic stretch, the train lingered in the morning sunlight, giving passengers a chance to stretch their legs and breathe in the crisp mountain air. Stations like Mérens-les-Vals and Andorre-L’Hospitalet felt remote and wild, with the early morning quiet enhancing the sense of adventure.

Nestled high in the Pyrenees, this intriguing station awaits

We arrived at Latour-de-Carol quietly, without any grand welcome. In fact, the final stretch of this railway was pleasantly uncrowded. I noticed just 13 other passengers disembarking, all leisurely, with time to spare before heading to Barcelona. Conveniently located for those looking to pass the time (and likely in need of coffee, given the lack of a hot drink service on the train) was the Bistrot de la Gare, directly across from the station. The friendly staff sprang into action as morning customers approached, with a basket of fresh baguettes arriving just in time for the influx of travelers. Caffeine was much appreciated, fueling our exploration of the area for the next 90 minutes.

This station boasted a stunning location, even larger than others along the line, featuring the longest covered platform in Europe. Tracks diverge in three directions: along the north-south French route I traveled, the scenic Petit Train Jaune (Little Yellow Train) heads eastward towards Perpignan, navigating a mountainous path through tunnels and over a dramatic suspension bridge, stopping at Bolquère Eyne, France’s highest station (1592m / 5223ft). On the opposite platform, the Rodalies (Catalonian railways) service awaited to whisk me off to Barcelona.

Remarkably, these three trains run on three distinct track gauges. On the day I visited, there were not many other travelers exploring this unique setup: a station crew member’s puzzled look as I wandered the platforms suggested I was the only one keen enough to appreciate the distinctiveness of this rail junction.

Beyond the station, the historical significance of the area became apparent. Two memorials honoring soldiers and their families who fled into France at the end of the Spanish Civil War starkly illustrated how this now tranquil route once served as a vital corridor. Then there was the border: an unforgettable stretch along a serene country lane, both beautiful and haunting.

Meanwhile, a rather unremarkable Rodalies train arrived, idling on the platform—looking capable, though not quite ready to depart. This train appeared like a suburban service from Barcelona that had mistakenly wandered into another country, which was pretty much the case. Moments before boarding, I followed the sign marked 'Espagna,' stepped onto the mostly empty train, and found myself staring at blank information screens, questioning if I had made a mistake.

Onward to Barcelona

At the designated hour, the train roared to life, the doors beeped shut, and we set off—albeit at a leisurely pace. A few minutes later, we crossed into Spain at the border town of Puigcerda, continuing our slow descent through a series of seemingly deserted Catalan villages, where shutters were firmly closed, and only the occasional hiker or student boarded the train.

This route can be experienced in multiple segments. The fortified town of Ribes de Freser serves as the starting point for the Vall de Núria rack railway, which opens up hiking opportunities in the summer and skiing in the winter. Additionally, Ripoll boasts a 1200-year-old monastery and abundant hiking trails, and it has more frequent trains to Barcelona than the three daily services from Latour-de-Carol–Enveitg.

Over the course of three and a half hours, the train chugged southeast, revealing signs of the Barcelona suburbs. The once quiet carriage gradually filled with commuters heading for the city; the lush forests gave way to industrial areas and highways. Eventually, our tranquil route merged with others, leading us underground through the center of Barcelona. The journey concluded at L’Hospitalet de Llobregat, a few stops beyond the bustling Barri Gòtic and El Raval districts.

I stepped off at Sants station, Barcelona’s main hub. This expansive, modern terminal with its underground tracks didn’t quite capture the historic charm of Estació de França, but it buzzed with the vibrant energy typical of a major city. After covering 1300km (808 miles), my journey ended here, though it could have continued. Fast trains radiate from this point across Spain, and the ferry terminals for the Balearic Islands of Ibiza, Mallorca, and Menorca are just a short metro ride away.

I found a table on the street in the vibrant Collblanc neighborhood, overlooking the city and the tracks I had just traveled. I paused there for a few moments, savoring one last, delightfully slow moment on a journey filled with such experiences.

Steps to make your journey happen

To book your journey from London to Latour-de-Carol, use a combination of Eurostar, SNCF, and Trainline. The sleeper from Paris to Latour-de-Carol offers seats starting at €22, six-berth couchette compartments from €44, and four-berth sleeper rooms starting at €68. Solo travelers will share unless they select the “espace privatif” option to reserve the whole cabin. Tickets typically become available 90 days before departure.

Tickets for the Latour-de-Carol to Barcelona train (€12) cannot be purchased online. Instead, a conductor will issue tickets onboard. Be aware that these tickets cannot be used at ticket machines in Barcelona stations, so you will need to find a staff member to validate your ticket.

When it comes to food, the best strategy is to gather any supplies you’ll need for the night train while in Paris. Unless you’ve pre-ordered, you won’t find any drinks, snacks, or breakfast available until the journey is over.