Uncover the hidden treasures of Turkey’s Aegean coastline

Turkey’s Aegean coast is the essence of summer. Once home to a predominantly Greek population during the Ottoman Empire, the region has undergone a revival since the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923. Its historic towns and villages now attract a fresh wave of visitors, shaping a new Aegean identity. Here, dishes burst with the flavors of sun-ripened herbs, locally grown produce, and olive oil from the abundant groves. Fresh seafood from the Aegean and wines from local vineyards complement vibrant cocktails made with indigenous ingredients.

In addition to iconic beach destinations like Bodrum and Alaçatı, Ayvalık and its nearby island, Cunda, are two of the coast’s most charming and lesser-known gems. Located just under 100 miles north of Izmir, they sit across from the Greek island of Lesbos, offering a peaceful escape with a rich cultural backdrop.

Ottoman-era architecture and Greek Orthodox churches

Once the heart of olive oil production in the Ottoman period, the chimneys of Ayvalık’s former factories still rise above the town. As you wander through its labyrinthine cobblestone streets, you’ll pass by old churches and traditional stone houses with vibrant, colorful shutters.

The town's architecture is a beautiful blend of Greek and Ottoman styles. Key landmarks include the Çınarlı Mosque, originally the Greek Orthodox church of Ayios Yorgis, which dates back to 1790 and features elegant Ionic columns and five-lobed windows. The Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum is actually an 1844 Greek Orthodox cathedral, which after being repurposed as a warehouse and later abandoned, has been lovingly restored, with its marble columns and frescoed ceilings now back in their former splendor.

Shopping with local artisans

Ayvalık’s charming old houses now serve as perfect spaces for ateliers and artisan workshops, making the town’s shopping scene a celebration of handmade crafts, from wood and ceramics to textiles.

Just a stone’s throw from the Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum, you’ll find Moyy Atölye in a beautifully restored historic house with grand arched windows. Here, Özlem Erol collaborates with local female artisans to create organic garments from *feretiko*, a traditional handwoven hemp fabric from Turkey’s Black Sea region.

A short walk from the waterfront, the porcelain studio Santimetre is nestled in a restored neoclassical townhouse. Designer Tulya Madra, who’s also worked in New York, is celebrated for her hand-cast, glazed dinnerware, available in shades that range from Aegean blues to soft pinks, greens, and sunny yellows.

Modern Aegean cuisine

Nestled by the sea and surrounded by lush olive groves and orchards, Ayvalık’s cuisine truly embodies the Aegean spirit. At Sofia Ayvalık, set in a beautifully restored house with baby-blue window frames, you can enjoy contemporary Aegean dishes like pilaf with coriander and artichokes, stuffed dried tomatoes with sour cherries, and celery soup with sage and rosemary. Local wines complement the meal, with seating available both in the alley outside and on the upstairs terrace with sea views.

Cleto's, located right by the sea in a repurposed olive oil factory, is one of Ayvalık's favorite dining spots. Founded by chef Anacleto Salciccia and his wife Funda Kocadağ Salciccia, the upscale restaurant is known for its classic Italian dishes, including seabass carpaccio with lemon mayonnaise and linguine with squid ink and prawns.

For an authentic Aegean dining experience in the heart of an olive grove, head to Karina Ayvalık, just a 10-minute drive south to Küçükköy village. Run by Özge and Sinan Sabuncu, the restaurant celebrates fresh, local ingredients, offering dishes like seafood pasta and grilled calamari, all paired with carefully chosen regional wines.

Olive oil remains a cornerstone of the region’s cultural identity. In Küçükköy, Kürşat Ayvalık, the area’s most esteemed olive oil producer, has recently expanded its mill, adding a new building that houses a museum, shop, and restaurant. A family business with roots in Crete, siblings Zeynep and Ali Kürşat honor their grandparents’ legacy by hand-harvesting olives to ensure the fruit remains undamaged.

At their restaurant, Ayna, located just 15 minutes northwest of Ayvalık on the island of Cunda, you can savor simple yet flavorful Aegean dishes like seabass ceviche with capers and orange zest, or phyllo dough rolls filled with local cheese, oregano, and wild honey.

'I feel the weight of history with every step I take'

Istanbul-based photographer and paper sculpture artist Deniz Yılmaz Akman has spent the past 20 summers at her family home in Ayvalık, using her camera to capture the essence of the town’s locals and its hidden gems. One of her favorite photo spots is the historic houses along 13 Nisan Caddesi (April 13th Street).

‘Ayvalık is the perfect summer escape, yet it retains the vibrancy of a city,’ she says. ‘I can inhale the fresh Aegean breeze while strolling through the old streets lined with historic houses. It’s a place where I can unwind at a charming café, shop for antiques, savor modern Aegean cuisine at trendy eateries, and sip cocktails at cool bars.’

‘I’d suggest visitors experience a classical music concert at the Ayvalık International Music Academy, sample the famous local black mulberry and sour grape juices at Camlı Kahve, indulge in muhallebi (milk pudding) with mastic at Macaron Muhallebicisi, and enjoy mastic cookies and ice cream at İmren Pastanesi,’ she recommends.

She also highly recommends trying Ayvalık’s famous toast (filled with melted cheese, Turkish fermented sausage, and pickles) at café Şeytanın Kahvesi, as well as the fried cuttlefish and mezze at Hüsnü Babanın Yeri restaurant.

Island life

At the historic Taş Kahve, enjoy freshly brewed Turkish coffee, while the aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries fills the air at Cumhuriyet Fırını, a local bakery that’s been serving the community since the 1990s.

Away from the bustle of the main streets, Cunda offers a more tranquil vibe. Pomegranate trees laden with fruit line the gardens tucked in the winding alleys that lead uphill from the shore. Residents sweep fallen leaves from their steps as stray dogs rest peacefully under flowering vines.

Cunda’s serene charm

Wandering through Cunda often leads to hidden gems, like the Cunda Taksiyarhis Rahmi M. Koç Museum, housed in a beautifully restored Greek Orthodox church. This museum features a fascinating collection of antique cars, motorcycles, and toys. Once in disrepair, the building has been repurposed and now stands full of life and history.

And then, it’s time to rest

Looking for a place to stay? The most distinctive vacation rentals in Ayvalık were designed by the architect duo Erdoğan Altındiş and Gabriele Kern-Altındiş, who oversee Manzara, a selection of modern, design-driven homes in both Istanbul and Ayvalık. The Ayvalık properties consist of five beautifully restored stone houses, each featuring private gardens, sea views, and sleek, contemporary interiors, while still maintaining their historic charm. Alternatively, for a seafront stay, Villa Pietra Hotel offers a restaurant suspended over the water.

Located in the village of Küçükköy, Küçükköy Otel features charming rooms with exposed brick walls and a serene small pool, perfect for a peaceful getaway.

Tucked away on a quiet side street in Cunda, in a beautifully renovated stone house, lies Engin Reis. One of the island’s most elegant hotels, it boasts a coastal style with crisp white linens and wicker furniture.