Unwind at These Car-Free Getaways in Europe

Growing up on the south shore of Long Island in New York, I spent many humid summer weekends on the barrier beaches of Fire Island, a 32-mile-long, car-free haven. Here, it’s common to wander barefoot, or to get around using a bike, wagon, or golf cart while exploring the pine-scented villages nestled between the ocean and the bay.

With nearly a 1:1 ratio of deer to humans on the island, I felt relaxed as I hopped off the ferry, leaving my flip-flops behind whether I was off to sunbathe by the dunes or indulge in fried calamari at a bayside eatery.

Where else can pedestrians enjoy the right of way? This thought crossed my mind after relocating to France eight years ago. It turns out that the following car-free islands—Hydra in Greece, Porquerolles in France, and Lopud in Croatia—offer travelers the same serene experience, along with cultural treasures to uncover between beach visits. While getting to these paradises may require some extra time and patience, the reward is definitely worth it. Here’s what to anticipate from each destination.

1. Hydra, Greece

First: It’s pronounced “Ee-dra.” This 12-mile-long island is part of the Saronic Isles and is one of the closest to Athens’s Piraeus port. Many visitors come just for the day, taking one of the frequent 90-minute ferries in the morning and returning on the last boat around 9 p.m.

However, a tranquil charm envelops the island once the day-trippers leave; just like I did, let one of the donkeys carry your overnight bags to one of the boutique hotels or apartments in town. After settling in, stroll east past Hydra’s port—it’s a short walk to the Deste Foundation, a contemporary art venue located in a dilapidated former slaughterhouse overlooking the brilliant blue Aegean. Open only during the high season (June through October), this unique spot features works from the collection of Greek billionaire and art lover Dakis Joannou, showcasing pieces by artists like Jeff Koons and Maurizio Cattelan.

When the sun’s heat reaches its peak, take a water taxi to swim or relax at one of the pebbled beaches that line the island’s edge, or work up an appetite along the coastal path on the west side to the all-white Omilos, a modern cliffside taverna perfect for watching the sunset while enjoying contemporary Greek cuisine.

Where to Stay in Hydra, Greece

For a blend of town and country, consider Villa Valentine, a three-bedroom home just a 15-minute walk from the port, adorned with artistic decor from vibrant canvases collected by owner Didier Guillon, the president of the Swiss cosmetics brand Valmont.

Take a small motorboat along the island’s western coast to reach Four Seasons Hydra (not affiliated with the hotel chain), a secluded spot that boasts a resort-like atmosphere with beachfront loungers and its own dining options. Within town, just a short stroll from the port, you'll find the family-operated Orloff, adorned with vibrant fuchsia bougainvillea, or the sleek and contemporary Nesea apartments.

2. Porquerolles, France

The rugged island stretches 7 miles long and 4 miles wide, located off the coast of Hyères, featuring only a few market shops, restaurants, and cafés, along with a handful of boutiques selling souvenirs, sarongs, and sunglasses. However, the main attraction of this easily accessible paradise lies in its opportunities for hiking, biking, and enjoying art. Ferries depart from the Giens Peninsula on the southern side of the French Riviera, so be sure to book in advance during the busy summer season and join the crowds for the 15-minute crossing.

Upon arrival, locate La Bécane for bike rentals and be sure to grab a map that highlights travel times to various attractions. (Ferry services typically end around sunset, so it’s wise to avoid being stranded if you’re not staying overnight!) A mere fifteen-minute ride from the ferry terminal leads you to Fondation Carmignac, a sprawling 40-acre art complex nestled among native “pin parasol” trees that rise above the landscape like umbrellas. I could have easily spent the day exploring the outdoor permanent collection of large-scale installations and the air-conditioned 22,000-square-foot galleries hosting a rotating exhibition from April to November. After a refreshing break with a rosé from Domaine La Cortade, an organic vineyard, I opted to bike another 15 minutes to the stunning cove of Plage Notre Dame for an afternoon swim.

No need to worry about packing a picnic lunch: Le Poisson Ivre at Fondation Carmignac offers delicious ceviches and salads. Alternatively, you can dine back in Hyères, where the outdoor courtyard of La Reine Jane, adorned with Edison bulbs strung from acacia trees, creates a magical setting to wrap up the day.

Where to stay in Porquerolles, France

Aside from Le Mas Du Langoustier, a rustic 47-room hotel on the western tip of the island, lodging options on Porquerolles mainly consist of house rentals and a few boats with bookable cabins moored in the inlet. Depending on your budget and group size, staying on the mainland and making day trips may be a more suitable choice.

La Reine Jane in the Hyères harbor features 14 unique rooms, each crafted by a different artist, some with picturesque sea views. Hilton’s Le Hameau des Pesquiers Ecolodge, located between the salt marshes and pine forests of Port Port Cros National Park, offers a slightly more refined alternative that balances style with comfort.

3. Lopud, Croatia

After weaving through the crowds along the walls of Dubrovnik, make your way to a 15th-century Franciscan monastery. This expansive 5,000-square-foot site serves as the centerpiece of Lopud, the second-largest of the Elafiti islands, located about seven miles from the mainland. Just a 55-minute ferry ride from Gruz Bay, the monastery is perfect for visitors with limited time—or for those who can’t quite swing the €12,000 nightly fee for exclusive rentals. After two decades of restoration, Swiss art collector Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza transformed it into Lopud1483, a five-suite villa that features an amphitheater for films and concerts, an outdoor spa, and sweeping terraces surrounded by fragrant lilac trees, offering stunning views of the Adriatic Sea below. Keep in mind: the monastery is open to the public only by reservation and only when it’s not booked privately.

Many of Lopud’s highlights can be enjoyed in a single day, such as hiking to one of the Dalmatian Coast’s most stunning beaches, Sunj. To get there, depart from the port and ascend the stone steps that eventually lead to a grassy path. It’s a 30-minute peaceful walk to reach Sunj’s crescent beach. Pro tip: Bring cash for renting a lounge chair or purchasing snacks from local vendors.

On your return, stop by Olafur Eliasson’s Your Black Horizon Art Pavilion, a wooden installation nestled within an orchard filled with carob trees and cactus plants. Initially commissioned by Thyssen-Bornemisza for the 2005 Venice Biennale, the interior transforms into a mesmerizing light show every 15 minutes, featuring LED lights that replicate the shifting colors of Lopud’s horizon throughout the day.

While there are a few laid-back dining options near Lopud’s port, the ultimate culinary experience requires a 20-minute boat ride and a hefty budget: Bowa Dubrovnik, located on a private stretch of the neighboring Elafiti island of Sipan, offers a lavish setting whether lounging in a chair or reserving one of the €500 over-water cabanas. However, nothing compares to indulging in fresh oysters and sipping on wine aged underwater while dining above it.

Where to stay in Lopud, Croatia

If Lopud1483 isn’t within your budget, consider the 182-room Lafodia Sea Resort, a luxury hotel and wellness center with stunning sea views. Options for accommodations on this island are limited, but numerous pensions and apartments can be found on Booking, VRBO, and Airbnb.

Other car-free islands

Additional car-free destinations in Europe include Marettima, located off the coast of Sicily; La Graciosa, part of Spain’s Canary Islands; Ile de Cavallo, nestled between Corsica and Sardinia; and Juist, one of Germany’s northern East Frisian Islands.