What exactly is a dim sim? Explore how a jumbo-sized dumpling evolved into a cherished Australian culinary icon

Every Friday, Ross Harrington, a service manager at a car dealership in Melbourne, makes his weekly stop at a local lunch spot for a couple of crispy, deep-fried dim sims, marking the start of his weekend tradition.

Harrington is also the founder of 'Dim Sims 4 Lyfe,' a Facebook group with around 5,000 passionate dim sim fans who exchange stories and share inventive recipes, like dim sims served on pizza.

And he’s far from the only one obsessed with dim sims.

Dim sims, affectionately called 'dimmies,' are an Australian twist on the traditional Chinese dumpling. Available in various forms, including steamed or fried, they first rose to prominence in the 1940s and have since become a beloved dish in Melbourne and beyond.

So, who’s responsible for creating them? The answer is more complicated than you might think.

William Chen Wing Young, a Chinese Australian businessman, is frequently hailed as the 'father' of the dim sim.

However, according to Elizabeth Chong, Chen's daughter and a renowned Chinese Australian cooking personality, that’s not quite the full story.

‘It’s often been incorrectly claimed that he invented the dim sim and ran a restaurant called Wing Lee. But that’s not true,’ says the 90-year-old celebrity chef.

‘Although, if it weren’t for my father, the dim sim wouldn’t be the Australian fast-food legend it is today.’

The story behind the dim sim’s origins

The tale of Australia's dim sim began in 1942 when Chen discovered that many elderly Chinese men, who had come to Australia during the 1800s gold rush, were now unemployed.

‘They were like the forgotten remnants of the gold rush era. Too old for hard labor and stranded far from home,’ recalls Chong.

Around the same time, Chen observed the rising popularity of Cantonese dim sum in Australia. (‘Dim sum’ refers to the wide variety of dumplings and snacks served with tea. Among them, siu mai – a dumpling made of pork and prawns shaped like a flowerpot – stood out as a favorite.)

Chen had a bright idea: If he could mass-produce siu mai, these older men could sell them from food trucks and support themselves.

But in the 1940s, siu mai was too difficult for Australians to pronounce. So, Chen decided to rename it ‘dim sim’ – a term with the same meaning as dim sum, but from a different Cantonese dialect.

‘He managed to mix social good with business,’ says Chong. ‘It started with four women making them by hand – my mother was one of them. As demand grew, we hired more and more women to help.’

Chen named the business Wing Lee – Wing was his middle name, and Lee was his wife’s maiden name.

The dim sims didn't become a sensation until his son unintentionally played a key role in their rise to fame.

A lazy day sets the stage for dim sim’s big break

‘At that time, my older brother Tom got involved with the business. My father asked him to take a box of dim sims to an elderly Chinese man who lived in Cheltenham (a suburb of Melbourne),’ recalls Chong.

‘But on his way there, Tom decided it was such a lovely day, he’d stop by and catch up with his good friend Joe, a Greek guy who ran a fish and chip shop near Mordialloc,’” says Chong.

The two friends ended up going fishing. When they returned, Tom told Joe, ‘I’ve got a box of these dim sims. How about I cook them in your shop, and we’ll have them for lunch?’

Joe decided to deep fry the dim sims, as ‘that was the only way to cook them in a fish and chip shop,’ recalls Chong.

Joe declared them delicious, so Tom, instead of completing the delivery, left the box of dim sims with him.

‘By the end of the day, Joe called Tom at Wing Lee and said all his friends were asking where they could get these dim sims,’” says Chong.

As the demand for dim sims grew, the factory struggled to keep up.

To solve this, Chen hired a German engineer to create the first-ever dim sim machine, designed to mass-produce the tasty treats.

‘I was just a little girl back then,’ remembers Chong. ‘I recall my father staying up late with the engineer, discussing how the dough should be made and how the machine should mix all the ingredients.’

The outcome was an instant success, she says, making Wing Lee Dim Sim the first Chinese factory to bring fast food to the masses.

‘Every fish and chip shop was eager to get their hands on them. Supermarkets were asking for them, too. It didn’t take long before dim sims became a staple at every fish and chip shop in Victoria,’” says Chong.

Dim sim vs. siu mai

While they share similarities, dim sim is not quite the same as the siu mai you’d find in a typical Chinese restaurant.

Dim sims are larger in size, with a thicker skin designed to handle freezing and shipping. The filling ingredients also differ.

‘During World War II, when meat was scarce, my father was supplying dim sims to a munitions factory for lunch, and he was given extra food coupons. But these were limited, so he had to alter the recipe,’ recalls Chong.

‘I think he used pork and veal, and added more vegetables like celery and English cabbage instead of Chinese cabbage, along with some onion for flavor. It still turned out delicious.’

Chong looks back fondly on how Australians embraced her father's dim sims.

‘At one point, many young Australians traveling to London would send letters to Wing Lee asking, ‘Can you send us some dim sims?’ I think the dim sims, which mean ‘to touch the heart’ in Chinese, truly captured the hearts of Australians,’” recalls Chong.

‘It’s now an Aussie tradition. People would order fish and chips and add a dozen fried dim sims to their meal,’” says Chong.

‘It’s part of Australia’s cultural heritage,’” she adds.

Harrington, 52, says his first experience with dim sims was at age 10. It was a taste he came to appreciate over time.

‘I wanted to understand what the hype was all about. It was steamed, drenched in soy sauce, and I didn’t like it at first. But I stuck with it and eventually developed a love for them,’ Harrington tells Dinogo Travel.

‘As we grow older, the things we grew up with either fade away or become hard to find. But dim sims have stayed the same, and eating them now brings back cherished memories from childhood. Everyone has a favorite spot where they get their best dim sims,’” says Harrington.

With that sentiment in mind, he created the Dim Sims 4 Lyfe Facebook group.

‘Through Dim Sims 4 Lyfe, I’ve discovered many great dim sims based on recommendations from fellow members. More importantly, it’s allowed me to bring people from all backgrounds together to celebrate something simple, yet deeply meaningful to so many,’” says Harrington.

‘I believe that if I can keep the dim sim’s popularity alive, I’ll help ensure that some of these original Chinese restaurants stay in business. As new generations take over, it’ll give them a reason to keep these traditions going. They’re a part of our Australian heritage,’” explains Harrington.

Harrington’s favorite dim sim memory dates back about 30 years, when his wife took him to the South Melbourne Market to try their renowned dim sims.

‘They were huge and had a peppery kick. I waited in line behind around 30 people for my turn, and it was definitely worth it,’” he recalls.

These days, after enjoying a dim sim lunch on Friday, or ‘Fryday’ as Harrington calls it, he also enjoys dim sims at the footy on weekends. He even sometimes makes his own, using ‘premium ingredients to perfect the ultimate taste.’

‘The dim sim is truly an iconic Australian dish,’ he says. ‘It’s a reminder that Australia has always been a nation that welcomes diversity, embracing new cultures and cuisines with open arms.’

What became of the original dim sim company?

Chen’s company, Wing Lee, didn’t manage to last as long as the iconic dumpling it produced. After his retirement in the late 1950s, the company went public and was eventually acquired by two other brands, Marathon and Chien Wah.

Shops and factories, both large and small, have since put their own spin on the classic dim sim.

However, over the years, Chong and her family have continued to shape Australia’s food culture in many other ways.

In the 1950s, she launched a Chinese cooking school, initially a small class for neighbors, which eventually saw her teaching over 35,000 students.

Chong went on to become a popular Chinese food show presenter in the 1990s and 2000s, one of the first Asian faces to bring Chinese cuisine to television. In 2019, she was honored with the Queen’s Birthday Order of Australia award for her contributions to hospitality and promoting Chinese food.

‘There’s a Chinese restaurant on nearly every corner of Australia. While Chinese food is beloved, it’s not always fully understood. I presented it in a new light, showing people that Chinese cuisine is much more than just a meal to fill the stomach,’” says Chong.

‘I’m proud that my father and I were able to serve as a bridge, connecting two cultures and two nations,’” says Chong.