While Spam is often ridiculed in the West, it's so popular in Asia that a company has developed a plant-based version of it.

In a bustling Hong Kong restaurant, the savory scent of fried Spam fills the air.

As the kitchen staff gears up for the lunch crowd, one cook is adding the final touches to a bowl of instant noodles, egg, and Spam – a dish so iconic in local culture that it has its own nickname in Cantonese (chaan daan mihn).

However, this bowl is unique: despite the two pink slices of luncheon meat on top, it’s completely plant-based. The 'Spam' is a vegan alternative created by OmniFoods, a Hong Kong-based food company and social enterprise.

Similar to US brands like Beyond Meat and Impossible, OmniFoods targets both vegetarians and meat lovers with its plant-based products, offering a more ethical, environmentally friendly alternative to traditional meat.

While Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods initially focused on beef, OmniFoods founder David Yeung quickly realized that in Asia, pork is the most widely consumed meat.

According to the OECD, Koreans consume an average of 31.2 kilograms (69 pounds) of pork annually, while the average in mainland China is 24.4 kilograms, both far exceeding the global average of 11.1 kilograms.

After successfully launching a plant-based 'minced pork' product in China, selling to consumers and major chains like Starbucks, Yeung knew that developing a plant-based version of Spam, or luncheon meat, was the natural next move.

Despite its mixed reputation in the West, Spam remains a beloved staple in many parts of Asia. Market research reveals that the Asia-Pacific region represents about 39% of global luncheon meat sales, with China, South Korea, and Japan being the leading consumers.

“Some people eat Spam five times a day,” said Yeung, as staff served the meat-free Spam noodles alongside two other dishes: 'Omni Luncheon and Eggless Toast' and 'OmniPork Luncheon Fries' – though, Yeung admits, the name doesn’t quite have the same ring as 'Spam.'

Measuring 9 cm ( inches) in length and 1 cm (0.4 inches) in thickness, the pink slabs of Omni-spam look almost identical to traditional Spam. When placed in a hot pan, they sizzle with a satisfying sound, releasing a rich, meaty aroma. To the casual eater, the taste is strikingly similar—salty, fatty, and indulgent. The main difference is that the plant-based version comes in packs of six frozen slices, while traditional Spam comes in a canned block.

With Spam's widespread popularity across Asia, Yeung likened its role to that of bacon in the US – used in nearly every type of meal. The company always believed there was a market for their plant-based alternative, but Yeung admitted they were still taken aback by the enthusiastic reception.

“People were saying, 'Wow, this is the greatest invention!'” Yeung recalled, noting that the reaction was similar to the excitement surrounding Spam’s introduction to Asia decades ago.

The wartime staple

First introduced in 1937 by Hormel Foods, a company based in Minnesota, Spam was initially created to make use of surplus pork shoulder. It remains simple to this day, consisting of just six ingredients: pork, salt, water, potato starch, sugar, and sodium nitrate for preservation.

Spam® – as Hormel insists on spelling it, despite years of fighting against its generic use – was originally marketed to soldiers. By 1941, over 100 million pounds of Spam had been sent overseas to feed Allied troops during World War II, with significant quantities also reaching countries affected by the war.

In his memoirs, Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev famously wrote, 'Without Spam, we wouldn’t have been able to feed our army.' British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher also recalled serving Spam and salad to friends at Christmas in 1943, alongside one of their 'precious tins of fruit saved from the pre-war days.' Even years later, while living in Downing Street, she continued to purchase a can of Spam as part of her regular grocery shopping.

By that time, however, much of the British public had started to associate Spam with the hardship of wartime rationing. The same sentiment was shared in the US, where many veterans, who had relied on Spam during the war, developed a distaste for it in peacetime. Even during the conflict, the product wasn't universally appreciated: Hormel’s president, Jay Hormel, admitted in 1945 to keeping a file of 'abusive letters' from soldiers around the world.

This sentiment was echoed by senior military figures. In a 1966 letter to Hormel president H. H. Corey, Dwight Eisenhower, former Supreme Commander of Allied forces during WWII, acknowledged the company’s vital role in the war effort but also admitted to having made 'a few unkind remarks about Spam – uttered during the strain of battle, you understand.'

In the United States, even today, mentioning Spam often evokes disgust rather than appetite. Sherina Ong, a Filipina writer, shared in 2014 how, as a student at an American university, 'any mention of eating Spam was met with a grimace and a resounding 'ew, why?!''

Teresa Walker can relate to this reaction. Raised in Yorkshire, England, to parents from Hong Kong, her family's fondness for Spam set them apart, even more so than the traditional Chinese dishes they enjoyed.

Now working in London, Walker noted that when Spam came up in conversation at her office, 'literally everyone was disgusted, they see it as dog food.'

“They thought it was kind of crazy that I was eating it,” Walker said, adding that she doubted whether any of her colleagues had ever actually tried Spam. “My husband and his family also think it’s really revolting, they find it a bit of a joke that I like it.”

In the UK, Spam is often viewed negatively as an inexpensive, salty, processed meat, according to Da-Hae West, a Korean chef and food writer based in southern England.

Plant-based Spam

In the English-speaking world, Spam – still sold in the iconic blue-and-yellow cans that have changed little over the years – acquired an absurd reputation, partly due to a Monty Python sketch featuring a cafe that offered nothing but dishes containing the luncheon meat.

“There’s egg and bacon; egg, sausage, and bacon; egg and Spam; egg, bacon, and Spam; egg, bacon, sausage, and Spam; Spam, bacon, sausage, and Spam; Spam, egg, Spam, Spam, bacon, and Spam; Spam, sausage, Spam, Spam, bacon, Spam, tomato, and Spam,” a waitress says to a confused customer in the 1970 sketch. “Spam, Spam, Spam, egg, and Spam; Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, baked beans, Spam, Spam, Spam.”

While the comedy troupe was mocking the product – a parody that allegedly inspired the term 'email spam' – they could have just as easily been describing the menu of a typical Hong Kong cafe, or cha chaan teng, where alongside chaan daan mihn, you can find Spam with eggs, Spam sandwiches, Spam with macaroni, Spam with rice, Spam with pancakes, and other variations.

This love for Spam isn’t confined to Hong Kong: 'We grew up eating luncheon meat three times a week, on noodles, fried rice, or in hot pot,' said Singaporean chef Collin Ho. 'Everyone loves luncheon meat.'

In Korea, Spam is served with kimchi and rice in dishes like Budae Jjigae (army stew), and it’s even given as gifts during Chuseok, the annual harvest festival. 'The rich, fatty meat pairs perfectly with spicy, tangy Korean kimchi,' says Da-Hae West. In Japan, Spam features in dishes like 'po-oku tamago' (Spam and eggs) and 'spam musubi,' a Japanese-Hawaiian fusion of fried Spam on a rice ball.

When Spam first arrived in the Asia-Pacific region during World War II, it was a much-needed substitute for meat that had become scarce or unaffordable due to the ongoing conflict.

The canned product also carried a certain charm, owing to its American origins, much like silk stockings and quality chocolate were prized items linked to American GIs in Europe during the war.

As Ong notes, “The mere fact that Spam was an American product gave it an ironic air of sophistication in the Philippines, making it a coveted item across all social classes, from workers to the wealthy.”

Writing about Spam’s place in Hawaiian cuisine, author Rachel Laudan observed that Spam held 'a certain prestige, harking back to a time when buying canned goods symbolized affluence and modernity.' Without any stigma, Hawaiians and others continued to enjoy Spam guilt-free.

Laudan expressed frustration with the Western media's tendency to exoticize Spam, remarking that whenever she reads such articles, “I sigh, twiddle my fingers, and mutter to myself that really, Spam is just pâté by another name.”

Record-breaking sales

Although Spam may evoke memories of wartime rationing in the West, it’s far from being a relic of the past. In fact, its consumption is rising worldwide.

And it's not just Asians who are eating it. Spam is sold in over 40 countries, while its competitor, Tulip, reaches more than 100 markets. Sales of luncheon meat tend to increase during economic downturns, and this year, boosted by the effects of the coronavirus pandemic, they are on the rise.

In regions where Spam is still looked down upon, the need for affordable food often outweighs any stigma, with many consumers turning to it during tough times.

“In 2020, we saw an international increase of over 30% in our canned meat sales,” said Kent Riis, vice president of international sales at Danish Crown Foods, which owns the Tulip brand. Riis also noted that the company has hired about 50 new staff members at its primary production site in Denmark.

Riis mentioned that although the coronavirus pandemic is an unprecedented event, “situations like natural disasters have previously led to localized spikes in sales – for instance, when the hurricane season hits the Caribbean, our sales see a boost.”

Plant-based Spam

A significant downside to the rising popularity of Spam is the corresponding increase in pork consumption, which raises both ethical and environmental concerns.

Meat consumption – especially pork and beef – has serious environmental consequences. Experts argue that humanity needs to reach 'peak meat' by 2030 at the latest. One study suggests that switching to a vegan diet for two-thirds of meals could reduce food-related carbon emissions by 60%.

This is the central hope behind products like OmniPork – to transition meat-eaters to a plant-based diet without requiring drastic changes in their eating habits. Green Monday founder Yeung emphasized that his company is targeting Asian markets, where pork consumption is high, though he acknowledged that plant-based alternatives will never be as inexpensive as canned meat.

“About 39% of luncheon meat is consumed in Asia, with China still being the largest market,” Yeung said. “Even a small shift in consumption could have a significant impact.”

In Hong Kong and Macao, more than 400 McDonald's locations have introduced six limited-time dishes featuring OmniPork Luncheon, including breakfast sandwiches, noodles, and combinations with pancakes and hash browns. The fast-food chain has invested significantly in promoting this plant-based alternative. OmniFoods is also expanding its product range across the region, starting with Singapore and China.

Not everyone was sold on the product. TimeOut Hong Kong, while acknowledging OmniPork as a healthier option, pointed out that it “lacks the savory aroma typically associated with grilled luncheon meat.”

Yeung admitted the flavor is somewhat different but believes the health advantages will make the change worthwhile.

“It’s like Diet Coke versus regular Coke,” he explained. “Everyone knows Diet Coke doesn’t taste exactly like Coke, but once you understand the benefits, you’re more willing to accept that slight taste difference in exchange for a healthier option.”

He was happy with the initial reception, but some die-hard spam enthusiasts remained unconvinced. Walker, for example, questioned whether a plant-based version could truly replicate the taste of the classic canned luncheon meat.

“I’m not sold on it,” she admitted, though she added, “I’d probably give it a try, because I’m just such a fan of spam.”