Why Does Wine Taste Different in Flight? Insights from an Airline Sommelier.

When Delta recently set out to refresh its wine offerings—across the main cabin on international flights and premium classes—they couldn’t simply taste-test their way to a new menu. For starters, wines don’t have the same flavor profile at 35,000 feet.

The combination of lower atmospheric pressure and the cabin's dry air affects your sense of smell—and consequently, your taste—making it harder to pick up on all the aromas and flavor nuances. “You can perceive sweet, sour, bitter, and salty, but true flavor experiences are diminished,” explains Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson, who has been advising Delta on their wine choices since 2007. To adjust for this, she focuses on several key attributes.

“Firstly, the texture of the wine helps combat the dryness,” she notes. For instance, higher acidity can stimulate salivation. “This is important as it releases enzymes that enhance flavor perception while keeping your mouth moist.”

When selecting red wines, she avoids those with heavy tannins, as they tend to feel harsher—more like sandpaper than velvet. “That’s why pinot noirs excel; their tannins are gentler and more refined.” She also prioritizes bold fruit flavors and aromas, since subtle tastes may fade before they reach your palate.

For white wines, she avoids those with overly delicate flavors. In her first year at Delta, she tested 60 bottles on a transcontinental flight and found that Italian pinot grigio tasted too much like lemon water—it was simply too light. She favors chardonnays and sauvignon blancs, among other varieties.

In curating the fall 2023 wine selection—the first update since COVID—Robinson began with 1,300 potential wines from across the globe. “[It’s] a mix of Andrea’s suggestions, input from our team, and offerings from our suppliers and partners,” shares Mike Henny, managing director of onboard services at Delta.

The airline also aims for geographical balance in its selections. This year, the wines hail from France, Spain, Italy, California, New Zealand, Oregon, South Africa, and Argentina.

Robinson actively seeks out wines that tell a story and showcase the diversity of the market. This includes sustainably produced reds, whites, rosés, and sparkling wines that are either owned by or led by Black and female winemakers.

A notable example is Jordan Vineyard & Winery’s cabernet sauvignon from Alexander Valley, a classic California cab often found in steakhouses, which will be served in Delta One cabins. Led by head winemaker Maggie Kruse, who has been with the winery since 2006, it uses solar power for around 75% of its energy, preserves natural habitats on three-quarters of its estate, and supported local restaurants during the pandemic to help retain their staff. How does it taste? You’ll notice the exceptionally soft tannins and hints of vanilla.

In some instances, Robinson's team collaborates with winemakers to refine flavor profiles. For instance, she played a role in developing the Pebble Lane cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. Both are California certified sustainable, powered entirely by wind, and winners of the California Green Medal. Served in first class on domestic flights, these wines have been adjusted from their store-bought versions to reduce sweetness and oakiness. “Based on customer feedback and flight attendant insights, we know they prefer less pronounced, oaky chardonnays and avoid overly sweet wines,” she explains.

Ultimately, after numerous tastings (sometimes involving real customers), Robinson narrowed her selection to 17 wines available across four Delta tiers: Delta One, transcontinental and long-haul Hawai‘i flights, main cabin international, and first-class domestic. These wines won’t all be available simultaneously; they will rotate on and off the menu. Additionally, main cabin domestic will retain three bottles: Imagery’s cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, and Une Femme The Betty.

If you're flying Delta and have questions about these wines or their pairings with in-flight meals, you might receive an instant response. The airline provides an online video course for flight attendants aspiring to become “Delta Sky Sommeliers.” Over 3,200 flight attendants have completed this course in previous years (Delta is currently updating the training program). For those yet to take the course, information is also accessible on their SkyPro handheld devices.