Why the Tour du Mont Blanc is the pinnacle of mountain hiking

If you have one long-distance hike in Europe on your travel wish list, it's likely the Tour du Mont Blanc. It certainly was on mine.

Prepare for breathtaking views of shimmering glaciers, lush Alpine meadows, and an abundance of cheese as you take on this cross-border adventure. Surrounding the majestic Mont Blanc, the trail spans 170km (105 miles), ascends over 10,000m (32,800ft) in total elevation, and traverses three Alpine nations: France, Italy, and Switzerland. The journey typically starts and ends in Les Houches, France, following a counterclockwise circuit around the mountain range.

Every aspiration seems distant until we break it down into achievable steps. Here’s what you need to embark on the Tour du Mont Blanc hike or run.

My preparation for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Don't mock those who shave off the handle of their toothbrush to lighten their load. The ascents on the Tour du Mont Blanc are tough, and every ounce truly matters.

My initial thought while packing was, Where will I sleep? Choosing to camp would make the journey feel adventurous, allowing me to connect more with nature and providing flexibility in my nightly arrival. However, it also meant carrying my home on my back, which would weigh me down like a turtle, slowing my pace significantly.

The alternative was to stay in refuges, or mountain huts. These can range from basic bunk beds to nearly luxurious rooms, but they all share one thing in common: a dry, sheltered place away from the elements. Moreover, the meals (with few exceptions) are delightful. Opting for refuges eliminates the need for camping or cooking gear, giving you more space in your backpack.

Each refuge has its own unique atmosphere and operating style, explains Céline Mila, the gardienne (caretaker) of Refuge des Prés in the Contamines Valley. 'Typically, this involves removing your shoes before entering and taking your waste with you. The best way to familiarize yourself with the refuge is to come and talk to us upon your arrival – it’s our responsibility to share the mountain culture with you.'

For my 2023 Tour du Mont Blanc journey, I chose to stay in refuges throughout.

What is the optimal time to undertake the Tour du Mont Blanc?

To avoid the crowds, I chose to run the tour in mid-June. Even at the start of summer, there was still plenty of snow above 1800m (5900ft), and many hikers carried small snow chains to prevent slipping. I enjoyed the added challenge of the snow and the cooler daytime temperatures. July and August are the peak months for this route, making the trail feel a bit like a highway. By September, things calm down again, but the huts begin to close for the winter. Although mountain weather can change each year, July and August generally offer the most stable, rain-free days.

How long does it take to complete the Tour du Mont Blanc? And what do you eat along the way?

Hikers usually finish the loop in about seven to ten days, while the fastest trail runners can complete it in an astonishing 20 hours. Most regular trail runners take a more leisurely pace, finishing in three to four days.

Since I was running the loop in four days, I packed only the essentials to keep my load light: a pair of leggings and a long-sleeve shirt for sleeping, a thin fleece for the mornings, a lightweight raincoat, a pair of light gloves, an extra pair of socks, my toothbrush, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a headlamp. Additionally, I aimed to enjoy as much local cuisine as possible: crozets (cheesy pasta) in France, pizza in Italy, and croûtes (cheesy bread melt) in Switzerland.

Dinners were part of my demi-pension, or half-board. For lunch, I typically ordered the refuge’s picnic to enjoy along the trail. While they’re simple, the sandwiches or just bread, smoked meat, and cheese always satisfied my hunger.

Alix Noblat, an ultra-trail runner and nutrition expert in endurance sports, once advised me to snack every half hour – before my stomach begins to growl. So, I always carry snacks like protein bars or Snickers. Anything that provides an energy boost is a staple in my pack.

The ups and downs of the Tour du Mont Blanc

After spending a few days on the trail, your perception of time and distance shifts. Hikers no longer track their progress in kilometers or hours – instead, they count the cols, or mountain passes, they’ve conquered. The most renowned among them are:

• The Col du Bonhomme links the vibrant Contamines Nature Reserve with the Alpine pastures of Beaufortaine.

• The Col de la Seigne, located at the France-Italy border, offers breathtaking views of Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Peuteurey, Dent du Géan, and the formidable Grandes Jorasses.

• The Col Grand Ferret, at the end of the secluded Val Ferret, features a long, steep ascent followed by a delightful, gentle descent on the Swiss side.

• The Col de la Balme, which overlooks the Chamonix valley, leads hikers back into France for the final stretch before completing the journey.

And don’t overlook the valleys. The Tour du Mont Blanc passes through renowned winter sports areas like Chamonix and Courmayeur, as well as charming Alpine valleys. One notable valley is Val Ferret: the trail meanders high above the verdant pastures below, providing stunning views of the rugged mineral rock faces across the valley. Additionally, the cappuccinos at Rifugio Walter Bonatti are the finest you’ll find above 2000m (6500ft).

Do you need to be exceptionally fit to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?

Yes, you should prepare physically for the hike. Getting ready for the TMB involves cardio training and foot conditioning. Hikers should be in good shape to cover their planned daily distance. However, don’t forget to prep your feet to prevent blisters: break in your hiking shoes before the first day and consider packing anti-chafing cream if you’re concerned about friction.

Are you ready to make it happen?

This trek requires early booking – ideally two months ahead – to secure spots at the refuges. However, for those who prefer camping, it can also be planned last minute. The website Autour du Mont Blanc is a user-friendly resource for organizing daily stages and making hut reservations.

The stunning views…the delicious food…the playful marmots! The Tour du Mont Blanc offers unforgettable experiences at every turn.