Your ultimate guide for first-time visitors to Guyana

A lively and diverse nation rich in rare wildlife, Guyana remains largely undiscovered and seldom visited. Even locals often stay close to the coast. Those adventurous enough to venture inland are rewarded with breathtaking, untouched landscapes filled with vibrant rainforest birds and large mammals, winding trails, and quaint lodges. The less developed tourist infrastructure offers both thrilling adventures and practical challenges. Consider visiting Guyana if you seek off-the-beaten-path experiences, love wildlife, wish to immerse yourself in diverse cultures, enjoy rugged travel, and are captivated by stunning landscapes that have remained unchanged for centuries.

From the overwhelming heat and humidity upon arrival to the breathtaking view of stars shimmering above the Rupununi River, Guyana is a sensory delight just waiting to be discovered.

Is navigating Guyana straightforward?

While direct flights to Guyana from many regions are still limited, this is changing as more routes become available. Most international flights arrive at Cheddi Jagan International Airport, located just outside Georgetown, the capital and largest city in Guyana. You can find flights to Cheddi Jagan from the UK, various Caribbean islands, and several locations across North, Central, and South America. To reach Brazil, you can take a taxi from Lethem to cross the border into Bonfim. Lethem has a small airport primarily serving domestic flights, or you can drive along the main road from Georgetown, which is approximately 550 kilometers. Access to Venezuela is not possible due to a disputed border. Additionally, there is a daily ferry to Suriname, but it's often crowded, and early morning queuing is necessary to secure a spot. Traveling within Guyana is not always straightforward. The road from Georgetown to Lethem is unpaved and currently takes about 14 hours by 4x4. Although plans to pave it are underway, progress is slow, and locals are skeptical about its completion anytime soon. Once paved, domestic travel will become significantly easier. Presently, traffic is minimal except during rodeo season. Off the main road, expect bumpy trails or river travel. Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel within the country, but they come at a cost. Trans Guyana Airways offers daily flights between Lethem and Ogle airport in Georgetown for approximately USD$200 one way (as of this writing). Be aware that domestic planes are small, and weight restrictions apply, so packing light is essential. Given these challenges, the most convenient way to explore Guyana is through a pre-arranged itinerary.

What is the ideal time to visit Guyana?

Guyana experiences two primary seasons: wet and dry. The coastal rainy season occurs from mid-November to mid-January, while the second rainy period runs from May to August, affecting the interior of the country. Travelers looking to venture beyond Georgetown should particularly avoid this second wet season, as it complicates travel in the interior and many accommodations may be closed. Another significant event in the Guyanese calendar that impacts travel is the annual Rupununi Rodeo, held in the southwestern town of Lethem in region 9. This Easter weekend celebration attracts visitors from the coast, neighboring Brazil, and local indigenous communities for a weekend filled with roping, ranching, and bronco riding. There are also markets, pageants, and various activities. It's estimated that around 10,000 people attend this event, leading to heavy traffic on the road from Georgetown to Lethem and a shortage of lodging options. If you're planning to visit the southwest of Guyana in April or May, be sure to check the event dates.

How long should my stay in Guyana be?

Visitors to Guyana should anticipate spending ample time in the country—a long weekend won’t suffice if you wish to explore beyond Georgetown. With only one main road and numerous villages accessible only by river or plane, traveling in the interior can be time-consuming. I recommend planning for at least a week. The more time you allow yourself, the better your chances of exploring the savannahs, rainforests, and local village life, and spotting unique wildlife along the way.

Must-see attractions in Guyana

Discover the breathtaking beauty of Kaieteur Falls

Truly awe-inspiring, Kaieteur Falls is likely the top attraction for many travelers to Guyana. As the largest single-drop waterfall on the planet, it tumbles over a lush rainforest canopy and flows through a verdant valley. During your flight to the park, you'll be treated to stunning vistas as you approach the falls: endless forest canopies stretch out like broccoli for miles, devoid of power lines, roads, or any signs of human activity. If you're fortunate, your plane may circle the falls for some spectacular aerial views. A rainbow often arches over the falls, visible from the aptly named Rainbow View, where the river plunges into a gorge, flanked by a tree-covered valley. The scene is so exquisite it feels surreal. You can embark on a short hike to three or four different lookout points, all perfect for Instagram shots. Reaching Kaieteur National Park in the Potaro-Siparuni Region of Guyana, where the falls are located, can be challenging. The easiest way is via chartered flights included in guided tours, departing from Ogle airport in Georgetown and returning the same day. This limited accessibility means that while fewer people visit, the surrounding infrastructure remains unobtrusive, allowing you to fully enjoy the natural beauty of the area. Facilities include a building with restrooms and refreshments, but otherwise, it’s just you and the majestic falls.

Experience rare wildlife species

Guyana is home to a stunning variety of endemic, giant, and vibrant species, and any traveler would be missing out if they didn’t take the time to see some of them. The southern savannahs host giant otters, giant anteaters, iguanas, monkeys, and an impressive array of birds: just look up to spot herons, macaws, egrets, parakeets, hawks, kingfishers, swallows, and more. They say “every pond has a caiman,” and you’re sure to encounter some if you venture near the Rupununi River. These exotic creatures are in addition to the wildlife you might encounter in your daily life: I once had a bat in my bathroom, a possum curiously watching me brush my teeth, a praying mantis landing on my shoulder, and a gigantic beetle giving me quite the scare while I read in the evening. Accommodations even provide a whistle for calling help if something more alarming wanders in at night. Numerous tours are available for viewing specific species in their habitats, from sunrise birdwatching to sunset caiman tagging. The caiman tagging occurs at Caiman House in Yupukari Village along the Rupununi River, where a long-term ecological research project focuses on tagging and studying black caimans, conducted by the local indigenous community to enhance global understanding of the species. Karanambu Lodge offers boat trips to see the world’s largest lily pads on Buffalo Lake. Each flower produces 27 pads, blooming only after sunset. Witnessing the white flowers open at dusk is a truly magical experience. You can also venture out at dawn to search for the peculiar giant anteater in the savannah. Further north, Atta Rainforest Lodge organizes tours to seek out the cock-of-the-rock, a stunning bright orange bird native to Guyana, found in the lush, humid rainforest. The lodge also features the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway for an immersive rainforest experience.

My top recommendation for enjoying Guyana

Guyana's culinary scene is a major attraction. With influences from China, India, Brazil, the Caribbean, and the local Amerindian communities, the cuisine is a remarkable fusion. Typically served as a communal buffet, you’ll find an array of delicious dishes in the lodges: pepperpot, roti, okra, plantains, farinha (cassava meal), bakes, saltfish, cassava bread, and assorted vegetables, always accompanied by a refreshing jug of cold juice. One culinary experience you must not miss in Georgetown (unless you’re unable to secure a reservation—so be sure to book early) is the Backyard Cafe. The adventure begins at Stabroek Market, where chef and owner Delven guides you through vibrant stalls brimming with fruits, vegetables, pulses, fish, and more. The market is bustling with life, and Delven greets fellow vendors while showcasing fresh produce. After a couple of hours, you meet Delven at Backyard Cafe—a tranquil green oasis behind his mother’s house in the suburbs. This serene spot is a welcome escape from Georgetown's hustle and bustle. The menu features a wonderful array of dishes made from ingredients sourced at the market, such as bitter melon fries, egg balls (boiled eggs encased in cassava batter—simply incredible), yellow watermelon slices, boil-and-fry with plantains and okra, shark fillets, chicken with fried rice, mixed vegetables, pok choi, and chow mein. It’s a feast for all the senses: visual, gustatory, and aromatic. Another fantastic dining choice in Georgetown is Fresh, a stylish and spacious venue that emphasizes local ingredients sourced from their own garden or nearby suppliers. The cuisine reflects the owners’ global experiences, offering imaginative and fresh flavor combinations across all courses, creating a delightful and vibrant dining experience.

What is the cost of living in Guyana?

Traveling in Guyana is quite affordable, especially when it comes to food and lodging. A three-star hotel in Georgetown costs about USD$180 per night, while a meal for two at a mid-range restaurant averages around USD$50. For accommodations in the interior, expect to pay between USD$100 and USD$200 per night at a lodge.

Exploring Guyana's interior and traveling between villages can significantly increase costs. Wilderness Explorers offers a range of tours, from short city excursions priced at USD$80 to extensive two-week adventures that feature wildlife and various activities. For a brief trip to Kaieteur Falls from Georgetown, expect to spend about USD$340. These tours typically include all meals, lodging, and transportation, making them a great option for anyone wanting to delve deeper into Guyana.

What essentials should I bring for my trip to Guyana?

Always pack bug spray, as insects are prevalent no matter where you stay. While mosquito nets help, they’re not foolproof, so include bite relief as well. Year-round light rain gear is essential, as downpours can be sudden and intense, potentially disrupting your plans. Roads may become impassable, and wildlife will often retreat during heavy rain. Before departing Georgetown, grab a SIM card and withdraw cash from an ATM. Most places won’t accept credit cards, and data coverage in the interior is limited; Wi-Fi, when available, can be costly and unreliable. Note: I found eSim options ineffective.