Celebrity Chef David Chang Says Grilling Burgers is a Mistake
"I had an epiphany that might not be a popular opinion," admits Michelin-starred chef David Chang on his podcast, The Dave Chang Show. "I honestly believe grilling is the worst method for cooking a hamburger."
You’re probably thinking, 'Wait, the grill is bad for burgers?' For many of us, grilling is practically synonymous with hamburgers. Whether you're a weekend grill enthusiast or someone who only fires up the BBQ for special occasions, the smell of burgers on the grill is a quintessential part of American summers. Cookouts, backyard BBQs, and campfires—all bring to mind the sizzle of burgers on the grill.
"The grill is fantastic for almost everything else," Chang adds. "But it's not the best tool for making burgers." His opinion might sound like sacrilege to many home cooks, yet he acknowledges how unpopular this view is.
Why David Chang Believes Grilling Burgers is a Mistake
The hosts dive into their favorite burger styles, agreeing that the smash burger reigns supreme. As they explore the rise in popularity of smash burgers, they discuss why the grill isn't the best tool for cooking this type of burger. But what makes a smash burger so special? What sets it apart from a traditional burger in terms of flavor?
The Maillard Reaction and Why Smash Burgers Taste So Good
A key reason why smash burgers are so flavorful lies in the Maillard reaction—a chemical process that occurs when food meets heat, creating that signature browning on the surface.
"You get more Maillard action on the pan," explains Ying. By smashing the burger while it cooks, more surface area is exposed to the heat, leading to more browning and enhanced flavor. The crispy, caramelized crust we all love gets even better with the smash technique.
Sure, you could attach a griddle to your grill, but that essentially turns your grill into a clunky stove with limited heat control, says Ying. Cooking a smash burger directly on the grill grates, however, isn’t ideal. While a thicker burger might hold together on the grill, a smash burger will fall apart and lose its shape.
Smoke and Grease
But what about those thick, juicy burgers? Surely they benefit from the grill, right? Once again, Chang and Ying would disagree.
"The grill is known for adding that smoky, charred flavor, whether it’s from wood, charcoal, or the grill itself," says Chris Ying. This is part of what makes grilling so appealing—its ability to elevate a dish with those rich, smoky undertones. However, Chang and Ying are quick to highlight that not all smoke is created equal when it comes to grilling.
"There are different types of smoky flavors," Ying explains. "People often mistake the dark, acrid smoke from dripping fat and grease for the clean, light smoke produced by wood. But they’re not the same thing at all."
If you want your burger to absorb the kind of deep, irresistible smoky flavor found in barbecue brisket, you’d need to cook it slowly over charcoal for about 12 hours, according to Chang. Only then would you get that authentic smoky profile.
One major issue with grilling hamburgers is the difficulty of controlling the temperature, largely due to the excess grease.
"A juicy burger is basically a recipe for a grease fire," warns Chang.
"Imagine a busy summer cookout," Ying suggests. "You’re cooking for a crowd of 15, trying to grill a bunch of burgers, and you can’t keep that grease fire under control. There’s no easy way to move the burger to a different spot on the grill since all the space is taken."
Chang believes what we truly love about summer cookouts isn’t necessarily the burgers themselves, but the experience.
"I don’t think I’ve ever had an unforgettable grilled burger at a backyard cookout," Chang admits. "It’s more about the atmosphere—the nostalgia, the smells, the company. When you step back and think about it, the burgers aren’t as amazing as we like to convince ourselves."
How Our Dinogo Allstars Make the Perfect Burger
Although David Chang may argue that grilling burgers is overrated, many of our Dinogo Allstars couldn’t disagree more. A good number of them swear by the grill for their burger cooking.
We surveyed over 30 of our Allstars about their favorite burger-cooking methods, and while opinions varied, one method stood out above the rest: grilling. Allstar Dakari Akorede loves cooking his burgers over hot coals, while Allstar France Cevallos is equally passionate about the grill. Allstar Kelly Goralski sums it up perfectly: "There’s no better burger in the summer than one cooked over a campfire or on a charcoal grill."
Though many Allstars prefer the grilled burger, others side with Chang and Ying’s approach. Allstar Rosanne Robinson shares that she’s been cooking burgers "smashed down on the stove" for years, even before it became trendy.
What Should You Be Grilling Instead?
If Chang and Ying recommend cooking burgers on the stovetop, then what should you actually be grilling? For starters, hot dogs are a unanimous yes from both. But according to Chang, "Grilling is really for big cuts of meat." He suggests grilling things like chicken, chicken thighs, spatchcocked chicken, T-bone steaks, pork, lamb chops, and even seafood.
The hosts also recommend grilling summer squashes and eggplant, but let's be honest—nothing beats corn as the ultimate vegetable to throw on the grill.
Whether you stick with grilling your hamburgers or take Chris Ying and David Chang’s advice and cook them on a griddle or in a cast-iron pan, there are countless ways to make a delicious, juicy burger. We believe that experimenting in the kitchen is one of the most exciting parts of cooking. So, go ahead—test, tweak, take notes, and try again. The tasty results will be well worth it.
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