The Secret to Southern Biscuits That Everyone Knows

Ever wondered why Southern biscuits are so irresistible? It's all about one special ingredient. While a skilled hand or vegetable shortening can help, it's the unique White Lily Flour with its light, low-protein content that gives biscuits their pillowy, airy texture, while still being sturdy enough to hold their shape.

A few years ago, I lived in Alabama as a test cook and recipe developer. Coming from the North, I was skeptical about how certain Southern ingredients could transform traditional recipes. My colleagues introduced me to products like Duke's Mayo, Crystal Hot Sauce, and Alabama-style white barbecue sauce—though these are mostly a matter of taste. White Lily Flour, however, is fundamentally different from the typical flours you'd find elsewhere.

When you walk down the baking aisle at a Southern Piggly Wiggly or Publix, you'll notice the tall bags of White Lily Flour. These bags are bigger because White Lily weighs less than other flours. Inside, you'll find an ultra-fine flour made from soft red winter wheat, which has lower protein content. This makes it feel softer in your hands, and it’s this texture that gives Southern baked goods that distinctively light, yet tender quality.

Why White Lily Flour Is the Key to Perfect Biscuits

If you've done any baking, you're probably aware of how crucial protein content in flour is. The higher the protein, the stronger the flour. For instance, bread flour can have over 12% protein, which is perfect for chewy pizza crusts and rustic baguettes. All-purpose flour, which is more versatile, usually falls between 10% and 12% protein, depending on the brand.

White Lily's all-purpose flour contains about 9% protein, placing it closer to cake flour, which typically has around 10%. The lower protein content in White Lily flour means it forms less gluten than regular all-purpose flour. And less gluten results in baked goods that are light, airy, and tender, rather than tough and chewy.

But it’s not just the low protein that makes White Lily flour ideal for Southern biscuits. This flour is exceptionally fine, almost like powdered sugar. It’s so finely milled that the company recommends using 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of it in place of a full cup of regular all-purpose flour.

Testing the Difference: White Lily vs. King Arthur

Since moving back to the North, I’ve found it difficult to track down White Lily flour. After a bit of hunting, I ordered a bag from Amazon (for a premium price!) and decided to do a side-by-side buttermilk biscuit comparison using White Lily’s all-purpose flour versus King Arthur’s all-purpose flour.

The good news is both flours made deliciously buttery biscuits that were sturdy yet light. Honestly, I’d be happy with a biscuit made from King Arthur Flour. But when compared to White Lily, it’s clear why my Southern friends introduced me to this flour years ago. The biscuits made with White Lily are softer, fluffier, and more tender.

Most other brands use hard wheat in their all-purpose flour, resulting in higher protein content. You could get a similar protein level with self-rising, cake, or even pastry flour, but White Lily has a special milling process. It’s lightly bleached—less so than cake flour—and only the endosperm is used. This produces a soft, delicate, yet workable flour that’s perfect for biscuits. If you can’t find it locally, it’s worth ordering online, or bring a couple of bags back with you the next time you visit the South.