12 key insights for traveling to Georgia

With its stunning yet rugged mountain landscapes, vibrant culture, and Soviet history, Georgia was once seen as a challenging destination favored by adventurous travelers. Fortunately, visiting Georgia is now easier than ever, contributing significantly to its growing tourism-driven economy.

Having explored Georgia for over two decades, I've witnessed the country's remarkable transformation while still retaining a sense of familiarity. Few places offer the enchanting allure that makes Georgia a favorite among first-time travelers, and it’s common to hear glowing reviews from those who finally visit. Here are some of the tips I often share with newcomers eager to experience the beauty of Saqartvelo, as locals call it.

1. Allow yourself ample time to discover

While Georgia may seem small on a map, first-time travelers often underestimate the time needed for exploration. The combination of rugged mountains and limited infrastructure means that travel times between regions can be considerable. Plan for at least three full days to experience Tbilisi, and I suggest dedicating a week to truly appreciate some of the best attractions in Georgia. If you’re pressed for time, internal flights to the mountains can help you avoid a full day of driving each way.

2. Bring clothing for varied climates

Summers in the lowlands can be extremely hot, but once you ascend in altitude, especially to the High Caucasus, temperatures can drop significantly. Even in July, you'll want a fleece and a jacket. Georgia has a generally relaxed dress code, but be mindful when visiting churches, where it’s best to avoid exposing skin. Women should cover their heads and can wear (church-provided) wrap skirts to conceal pants.

3. Prepare for challenging driving conditions

Any seasoned driver with experience abroad should feel comfortable driving in Georgia. Over the past 20 years, the country’s roads have seen significant improvements, with most now paved. However, they are mainly single-lane, often riddled with potholes, and usually lack markings or street lighting at night. Currently, only the notoriously challenging route to Tusheti is best attempted by confident drivers in 4WD vehicles.

4. Locals offer far superior advice on driving routes than apps

While you might rely on apps to dictate your routes back home, Georgia isn’t a place to trust your journey to technology alone. Although apps can be useful, always consult locals before embarking on a lengthy drive, as they can provide insights on road quality and conditions that your app may not reveal. In the South Caucasus, taking a longer, more winding route can often be the wiser choice!

5. Watch for sheepdogs in the mountains

Caucasian sheepdogs are bred to be formidable protectors and can pose a danger, so maintain a safe distance when hiking in the mountains. If possible, carry a stick for added safety. Additionally, avoid getting too close to herds of livestock, as a sheepdog might unexpectedly appear, leading to an unwelcome encounter.

6. Understand political sensitivities

Speaking Russian can be beneficial, especially with older generations who may not speak English. However, many younger individuals view the language as a remnant of colonialism imposed by an empire that still occupies approximately 20% of Georgia’s territory. The contentious regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia are sensitive topics for Georgians, so approach discussions about them with care if you wish to hear local perspectives.

7. Enjoy chacha in moderation

Chacha, a potent version of grappa, is Georgia’s national drink and you’re likely to encounter it during your trip. While commercially available chacha is about 40% alcohol, homemade varieties can be much stronger, so approach with caution when a glass is offered to you.

8. Avoid toasting with beer

In Georgian culture, toasting with beer is reserved for enemies, so always have a glass of wine or chacha ready if you're invited to a traditional feast, known as a supra. Toasts are elaborate and typically led by a designated toastmaster (tamada), and while there are many customs to follow, it’s easy to join in—just drink when everyone else does.

9. Rural areas may have conservative views

A weekend in Tbilisi might give you an overly optimistic view of how progressive Georgians can be. A visit to a remote area, especially in the mountains, will provide a more balanced perspective. While the locals are warm and hospitable, traditional patriarchal values still hold significant sway in rural communities, and outdated attitudes can be prevalent. If you’re unmarried and childless, be ready for some candid inquiries about your life choices.

10. Opt for bottled water in the lowlands

While mountain water is typically of high quality and safe to drink, it’s best to stick with bottled water in the lowlands, especially in larger cities, where it’s readily available and affordable. The upside is that this gives you the opportunity to sample Georgia’s popular and distinctive mineral water, Borjomi.

11. Utilize Tbilisi’s underpasses for crossing busy streets

Crossing the road in the Georgian capital can be challenging, especially along Rustaveli, Tbilisi’s bustling main avenue. Fortunately, numerous underpasses are available for safe crossings—it's advisable to use them, as the chaotic traffic is likely to make you appreciate the caution.

12. A small tip is always appreciated in larger cities

With the influx of international tourism, tipping has become common in Georgia, particularly in Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kutaisi. Generally, a cash tip of about 10% is suitable for good service at mid-range to upscale restaurants, although it’s not always obligatory. Keep in mind that tips left on credit cards may not reach your server directly.