23 vital insights to consider before your journey to Bhutan

Nestled in the Himalayas between India and China, the small kingdom of Bhutan features breathtaking cliffside monasteries, golden-roofed temples, and vibrant prayer flags adorning its trails and peaks, making it the last bastion of Buddhism on the planet.

Bhutan's deliberate tourism approach has enabled it to gradually embrace the outside world while safeguarding its cultural heritage and untouched natural landscapes—two fundamental aspects of its unique Gross National Happiness (GNH) philosophy that informs the nation's governance.

Through my extensive travels in Bhutan for work, I’ve come to appreciate its varied seasons and activities, from horse trekking in Bumthang to rafting along the stunning, jacaranda-lined Punakha River, and even learning to prepare hoentey, a traditional buckwheat dumpling enjoyed during Lomba, the New Year, in the somewhat remote Haa Valley.

This concise guide explores Bhutan's cultural landscape, spotlighting local customs and unique traits to assist you in planning your adventure in the country affectionately known as Druk Yul, the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

1. Independent travel is now a reality, but opting for a tour operator remains the best choice.

Since reopening in 2022, Bhutan has eliminated the minimum requirement for all-inclusive tour packages, initially raising the Sustainable Daily Fee (SDF) to US$200, which has since been lowered to US$100, effective until September 2027. Children aged six to 11 enjoy a 50% discount, and those under six are exempt from the SDF. A one-time visa application fee of US$40 is also applicable.

Travelers from India benefit from significantly reduced fees and can enter with a special permit, requiring either a passport or voter ID card (Aadhar cards are not accepted). Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals can obtain a visa upon arrival, but must still pay the SDF.

Fortunately, adventurous travelers looking to plan their trips can now independently arrange accommodations, guides (which are required for journeys beyond Thimphu and Paro), and transportation. For the first time, it's possible to extend your visa while in Bhutan, and you can even drive your own car for an additional fee.

However, for activities such as trekking, attending festivals, or pursuing specialized interests like birdwatching, horse trekking, or cycling, employing a tour operator will greatly enhance your experience and is typically required. You can find lists of certified tour operators, guides, and accommodations, including hotels and homestays, on the official Bhutan Travel website.

2. Reserve your spot early for festivals and trekking during peak season

Since reopening, there are no longer incentives for traveling in the offseason, aside from occasional hotel promotions. Therefore, it’s best to plan your visit for autumn and spring when the renowned tsechus (monastic festivals) occur and the foliage transforms or rhododendrons flourish. Make sure to book well in advance if you want to participate in a festival or go trekking.

Nevertheless, locals insist that any time of year is a great time to visit Bhutan, as summer and winter have their own charm with numerous lesser-known festivals. However, these seasons may not be suitable for multi-day treks due to muddy paths and cold camping conditions.

However, the winter holiday season is quite special, offering crisp air, clear skies, and excellent lighting for photography with fewer tourists around. Plus, if you attend the National Day celebrations on December 17 at Changlimithang Stadium in Thimphu, you might even get a chance to meet the king!

3. Travel insurance is a must

According to Bhutan’s Tourism Rules and Regulations 2022, having travel insurance is essential. It should cover accidental death, permanent disability from accidents, emergency medical evacuation, and hospital costs in case of illness. You’ll need to provide proof of insurance coverage in English to apply for your visa.

If you happen to feel unwell during your stay, consider visiting Thimphu’s National Institute of Traditional Medicine. A doctor will check your pulse and temperature and inquire about your health. You’ll then receive a prescription for ayurvedic medicine made from local plants, all at no charge (though a small donation is appreciated). Bhutan is also known as “Menjong,” meaning “Land of Medicinal Herbs.”

Alternatively, you can go to the nearest hospital or health clinic for Western medical treatment. The Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital, commonly known as the National Referral Hospital, is the largest in Bhutan and is located in Thimphu.

4. Just two airlines operate flights to Bhutan

Bhutan is served by two national carriers: Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. Due to the difficult landing conditions at Paro International Airport, which is nestled among peaks as high as 5,500 meters (18,000 feet), only a limited number of pilots are certified to land there.

Direct flights to and from Paro connect you to several destinations, including Bangladesh (Dhaka), India (Bagdogra, Guwahati, Kolkata, and New Delhi), Nepal (Kathmandu), Singapore, Thailand (Bangkok), and, starting March 2024, the UAE (Sharjah). While Bangkok and Delhi are popular entry points, the route through Kathmandu offers breathtaking views, including glimpses of Mt. Everest on clear days. Be sure to request a window seat on the left side when flying to Bhutan.

Please note that you cannot check your luggage all the way to your final destination, so you'll need to collect it before boarding your flight to Bhutan.

You can also enter Bhutan overland from India. (Bhutan has border disputes with China, making transit through there impossible.)

5. Bhutan is the first carbon-negative country in the world

Bhutan has captured global attention as the first carbon-negative country. Its relatively low population density and underdevelopment (about the size of Switzerland but with only 10% of its population) contribute to this status. A significant factor in maintaining this achievement is a constitutional requirement to keep at least 60% of the land forested at all times, which aligns with the environmental conservation aspect of Gross National Happiness (GNH).

Since 1999, plastic has been banned, although enforcement can be inconsistent. Still, it's important to help keep the environment clean. Numerous signs along the way remind visitors: “A clean & beautiful environment is a feast for the soul,” one reads on the path to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

6. Bhutan is remarkably safe

As a joyful and devout Buddhist nation, Bhutan enjoys a low crime rate, with violent crime being extremely rare. It's considered one of the safest countries to visit, ranked as the 25th least corrupt nation out of 180 by Transparency International.

As a solo woman traveler, I always felt secure during my visits to Bhutan. I was never truly “alone,” as I was always accompanied by my guide or local friends. The increase in female guides in recent years is great news for solo women travelers.

7. Save the hike to Tiger's Nest for last

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can occur at elevations above 2,500 meters (8,202 feet). Since Thimphu and Paro, the most frequently visited cities, sit just 200 to 300 meters below this level, and many treks in the Bhutanese Himalayas cross passes reaching 5,000 meters, AMS is a genuine concern in Bhutan.

Ascend gradually, take rest days as needed, and stop if you start to feel unwell. If not managed properly, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can escalate into severe altitude sickness, so it's crucial to monitor your condition closely. If symptoms persist, descend immediately. In emergencies, helicopter rescue is always an option.

Note: Due to the altitude, acclimatization may be necessary. I recommend waiting a few days or until the end of your trip—saving the best for last!—before tackling the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery trek, which ascends about 1,000 meters (3,000 feet). Don’t forget to schedule a traditional hot-stone bath afterward.

8. Keep your vaccinations up to date

No vaccines are mandatory for entry into Bhutan, including the COVID-19 vaccine, although you might need to show proof of vaccination if traveling through India.

However, it's advisable to ensure that your vaccinations are current and consult a healthcare professional at least eight weeks prior to your trip in case you require any boosters. Recommended vaccinations typically include hepatitis A and B, diphtheria, tetanus, and typhoid, along with childhood vaccines for measles-mumps-rubella and polio.

For extended stays, including those relocating to Bhutan, you might consider vaccinations for Japanese encephalitis and rabies. Rabies is especially concerning, as friendly animals like monkeys and dogs can carry the virus, which can be fatal if untreated. If bitten by an animal, such as a stray dog, seek immediate care at the nearest health clinic for a post-exposure prophylaxis shot (a total of four shots will be required).

9. Bring some medical essentials

Be cautious of mosquito-borne illnesses when visiting during the summer and in southern areas. Due to climate change, Bhutan experienced its first nationwide dengue epidemic in 2019. Dengue can be deadly, and no vaccine is available for it. (Malaria, which can be prevented with medication, is rare and is expected to be eliminated by 2025.)

You’ll also need sunscreen. With an average elevation of 3,280 meters (10,760 feet), Bhutan ranks as one of the highest countries globally. Sharing latitude with Texas, Egypt, and the Bahamas means the sun is particularly strong. Protect your skin—and your eyes.

Bhutan lacks tunnels, so the mountain roads can be winding. Consider bringing Dramamine for motion sickness and Diamox for altitude sickness; consult your healthcare provider before traveling to determine if these are suitable for you. It’s wise to pack your own diapers and tampons, though you can find menstrual pads in stores and select hotels and restaurants. And don’t forget earplugs—howling dogs can disturb sleep, especially in downtown Thimphu at night.

10. Bhutanese cuisine is surprisingly flavorful – and spicy!

For years, Bhutanese food struggled with its reputation as travelers mainly encountered uninspired buffets at three-star hotels, serving Indian, Chinese, and continental dishes that catered specifically to foreign tastes.

Fortunately, those buffets are gradually being replaced. The local cuisine, which focuses on fresh and seasonal ingredients, is gaining recognition for its incredible flavor, provided you know where to find it. Consult your tour operator or guide for the best recommendations.

While Bhutanese cuisine is known for its spicy chili peppers, as seen in dishes like ema datse (chilies with cheese) and kewa datse (potatoes, chilies, and cheese), you can request modifications to suit your palate in advance. Just be prepared with some antacids.

11. Avoid drinking tap water

In Bhutan, tap water is not safe to consume unless it has been boiled or purified. Request boiled water from your hotel or guesthouse, or opt for bottled water to keep on hand.

However, feel free to enjoy the local whiskey and lager (Bhutan boasts a vibrant craft beer scene).

12. Familiarize yourself with local customs

“Kuzu zangpo la” translates to “hello” in Dzongkha, the national language of Bhutan, which is a Sino-Tibetan language predominantly spoken in the western regions. When greeting, bow while saying this phrase (handshakes are less common). A deeper bow signifies greater respect.

In addition to Dzongkha and various local dialects, English is widely spoken, as it serves as the medium of instruction in schools. When Bhutanese people converse in English, they often add “la” at the end of sentences or questions to convey respect; for example, “Thank you, la.” You are welcome to reciprocate this gesture.

If you’re invited into someone’s home and offered food, tradition dictates that you say “meshu meshu” while covering your mouth with your hands. After two or three refusals, it is customary to accept the offer. Similarly, when you offer something or give a gift or tip, expect some initial resistance. Consider leaving a small tip if you've been invited into someone's home and served food or arra, a local rice spirit.

13. Tipping is appreciated (but not obligatory)

Even if you’ve prepaid for your all-inclusive trip, it’s a nice gesture to tip your guide and driver at the end of your journey. If you're trekking, extend this appreciation to the crew, including the cook, helpers, and horsemen. While a tip of 10–15% is typical, the amount and currency are entirely your choice.

Tipping at restaurants and hotels is not required, as a 10% service charge is included in your bill when you eat out.

14. Bhutan has a vibrant nightlife

While many visitors are drawn to Bhutan for its tranquil landscapes, serene Buddhist monasteries, and majestic fortresses (dzongs) like Punakha Dzong, the country also boasts a lively nightlife and music scene worth discovering.

In Thimphu, nightlife revolves around Chang Lam near the stadium, where you can find a variety of venues such as Zone (a favored bar), Mojo Park (a great music spot where the band Misty Terrace originated), the Grey Area (Bhutan’s first gastropub), and nightclubs like Space 34 and Viva City, which stay open into the early morning hours.

Note: Bhutan has lifted the dry Tuesdays policy, so bars are now open every day of the week.

15. Smoking is now legal in Bhutan, but please be discreet

For many years, Bhutan enforced a strict health law that banned smoking and the sale of tobacco products. This regulation has recently been lifted, but smokers are expected to keep their habits “out of sight,” meaning behind buildings. The same applies to vaping.

Even though cannabis grows abundantly in the country, it remains illegal. Possession can lead to imprisonment for up to a year. The only substances legally produced in Bhutan are traditional medicines.

Note: While some places in Thimphu sell vaping products, they are not widely available. It’s best to bring your own supplies.

16. Approach everything with an open mind

Whether it’s tales of migoi (yeti) sightings in Bhutan’s remote east, the cultural significance of phalluses as symbols of protection, or the legend of the flying tiger who brought Guru Rinpoche to the site of the gravity-defying Tiger’s Nest Monastery, folklore, myths, and legends play a vital role in Bhutanese culture and national identity – and many believe them to be true.

Embrace Bhutan with an open heart. Western visitors may find it hard to set aside logic and reason, but it’s important to be respectful and consider letting go of preconceived notions. As the new tourism slogan suggests: Believe.

17. Dress in layers

Prepare for varying temperatures and landscapes by packing layers, as well as modest attire for entering temples and monasteries, including socks to keep your feet warm on cold temple floors. Besides sturdy hiking boots, consider bringing nicer shoes for wearing with a gho or kira (the national dress for men and women) if you choose to purchase an outfit – which is highly recommended if attending a festival or meeting dignitaries. For style inspiration, check out Bhutan Street Fashion on Instagram or Facebook.

18. Keep some small change on hand

Cash is essential for purchasing souvenirs, making small donations at monasteries, nunneries, and temples (especially if you wish to receive a blessing from a monk), as well as for tipping your guide, driver, and trekking crew, as previously mentioned.

If you’re traveling independently, it’s wise to carry small denominations for entrance fees to attractions and museums, as nearly all businesses do not accept credit cards.

19. Stay connected

Obtaining SIM cards has become much easier; you can now acquire one upon your arrival at Paro International Airport. Renting a pocket Wi-Fi device is also an option there, which is handy for staying online in remote areas.

20. Carry cash and download these apps

It's advisable to carry your own cash (ensure the bills are new) instead of relying on ATMs throughout the country. The official currency is the ngultrum, which is pegged at a 1:1 rate with the Indian rupee. Make sure to exchange some money at a bank or hotel to obtain smaller ngultrum notes for offerings like butter lamps.

Most businesses in Bhutan accept cash payments or transactions via goBoB and the BNB MyPay app. Foreign visitors can activate the app by downloading it from Google Play or the Apple App Store, using a local SIM purchased at the airport, and funding the digital wallet with their credit or debit card. While goBoB is preferred by locals, some tour operators recommend MyPay for tourists due to its connection to more international card networks and its backing by Stripe.

21. Spin prayer wheels clockwise and other temple etiquette

When you visit Buddhist monasteries, nunneries, and temples, it's important to follow proper etiquette: take off your shoes and hats, wear attire that covers your shoulders and knees, avoid taking photos in altar areas, do not point, never lean against a stupa, and consider leaving a small donation on the altar or with a monk. If you're seeking a blessing, it’s customary to offer a small donation as well.

Whether you’re traveling by car or on foot, always walk clockwise around a Buddhist temple or shrine, such as a stupa or chorten. Moving counterclockwise, whether by mistake or intention, is regarded as disrespectful and considered bad luck. Likewise, prayer wheels, which are believed to purify karma, should also be spun in a clockwise direction.

22. Don’t haggle aggressively

In contrast to some Asian countries like India or Vietnam where haggling is the norm, Bhutan's marketplace is much more straightforward. You generally pay the listed price – aggressive bargaining is not common here.

That said, be prepared to spend a fair amount if you decide to shop. The vibrant textiles made from natural fibers like silk and cotton will surely catch your eye. These items can take months to create, and their prices can reach into the thousands, reflecting the intricate craftsmanship and cultural significance, often produced by women.

Note: Geometric yathras, which are textiles made from yak wool and commonly found in the Bumthang region of central Bhutan, are a more affordable option.

23. Check the lunar calendar

Bhutan's calendar is derived from the Tibetan system, which is lunar-based. This means that Buddhist festivals, such as tsechus, have varying dates each year. In contrast, some cultural events like Bhutan National Day and the Black Necked Crane Festival in Phobjikha Valley adhere to the Gregorian calendar, ensuring their dates remain consistent each year.