5 Shops in Naples: vintage Italian styles, custom tailoring, and more

Growing up in Naples, I vividly remember my grandmother taking me to the local fruit markets each day. Years later, the catchy tunes of the vendors and their vibrant signs are still fresh in my mind. In Naples, selling is truly an art form. As a key Mediterranean port for over 3000 years, Naples has been a hub for exchanging goods and ideas, exporting both products and culture while embracing new influences. This ongoing interaction has spurred constant evolution, positioning the city as a center of excellence across various fields.

Naples is a treasure trove of everything you could wish for. From artisanal creations to high-end retail, it’s all available through street vendors, independent workshops, markets, shopping districts, and malls. Let’s delve into some of Naples' most historic and iconic shops for an authentic Neapolitan shopping adventure.

Top Spot for Souvenirs: Di Virgilio

When selecting a keepsake from Naples, a pastore from the renowned shopping area of San Gregorio Armeno is a must. Pastore, which translates to shepherd, refers to handcrafted figurines intended for a presepe, the traditional wooden nativity scene displayed by Neapolitan families every December. This age-old custom has been celebrated for a thousand years, long before the Christmas tree gained popularity. Pastori can represent various figures, often unrelated to the nativity – such as shepherds, fishermen, bakers, or individuals dressed in ancient peasant attire. This tradition is rich and secular, with minimal ties to Catholicism.

The oldest workshop in this craft is Di Virgilio, founded in 1830 and passed down through generations. Located in San Gregorio Armeno, this shop offers handmade terracotta figures in a variety of sizes and price points, starting from €20. In a unique blend of myth and reality, a diverse array of celebrities, politicians, artists, and athletes can be found alongside the Holy Family in the nativity scenes. Di Virgilio also accepts custom orders for pastori statues modeled after yourself or a friend, ideal for display.

Top Choice for Local Design: Maison Cilento

Naples boasts several prestigious design houses, including E. Marinella, whose ties have graced the necks of figures like King Charles and JFK. Close to the scenic Villa Comunale di Napoli, you’ll discover M. Cilento & F.llo, one of Italy's oldest and most esteemed fashion houses, which happens to be a personal favorite. Specializing in custom suits, shirts, ties, and a variety of accessories such as shoes, bags, and belts, Cilento has been creating bespoke pieces for eight generations since 1780.

Entering the boutique feels like stepping into a delightful living museum, showcasing unique items and historical artifacts behind glass displays. Each custom garment crafted by the artisans at Cilento requires around 60 hours of work, so be mindful of the turnaround time. If your stay in Naples isn’t long enough for a bespoke order, consider a ready-made accessory like a leather bag or a silk foulard (€120) to infuse some Neapolitan style into your wardrobe.

Top Choice for Vintage: Retrophilia

Along Via Mezzocannone, a strip filled with vintage and thrift shops, Retrophilia shines for its authentic and stylish retro and vintage apparel. This meticulously arranged two-story boutique features a variety of unique and rare items, including silk dresses, leather jackets, vintage soccer jerseys, and tailored pants and skirts. You can discover Italian designer labels like Moschino and Fendi, as well as exclusive pieces crafted by local Naples artists.

Due to Retrophilia’s popularity, garments rarely linger in the boutique for long, quickly claimed by the first fortunate shopper. The store is so well-known for its distinctive pieces that celebrities frequent it to avoid the risk of appearing on the red carpet in the same outfit as someone else. Enhance your purchases with hard-to-find accessories like bags, jewelry, hats, and sunglasses, all while benefiting from the expert fashion insights of the friendly and knowledgeable staff.

Top Destination for Food: Gay Odin

Describing Naples as the city of food is an understatement. Known as the birthplace of pizza, Napoli boasts a myriad of culinary delights. Gay Odin, a historic Neapolitan chocolate factory founded in 1894, offers a wide array of chocolate in every imaginable form. While multiple Gay Odin locations exist, the shop on Via Vetriera stands out for its charm, featuring vintage machinery, antique furnishings, retro advertisements, and chocolate sculptures.

Don’t miss trying their signature chocolate, cioccolata foresta (100g = €7), a milk chocolate log that mimics tree bark, beautifully packaged in a gift box adorned with historical images of the Bay of Naples. The rich and indulgent chocolate liqueur is also a must-try. The maestri cioccolatieri are true artisans, embellishing their creations with themes celebrating Naples, such as soccer triumphs or key city milestones. Currently, the highlight of the shop is a massive chocolate egg commemorating the 800th anniversary of Napoli’s Università Federico II, the world’s first state-run university.

Top Choice for Books: Colonnese

Make sure to visit Librerie Colonnese, one of Naples' oldest bookstores, before you leave. Located near the Conservatory and Piazza Bellini, Colonnese features a delightful atmosphere with antique wooden furnishings and thousands of titles in various languages. The shop offers rare editions, out-of-print titles, and an eclectic mix of genres (including a dedicated section for cat lovers). They also specialize in tarot cards (starting at €16). Travelers will find shelves stocked with books about Naples and the Campania region for inspiration. The friendly owners are eager to assist customers. If your suitcase is packed, consider buying an old print as a postcard (from €5) or a vintage advertisement from the store.