Adventures in “Dune Bashing” in the Qatari Desert

With the hosting of the 2022 FIFA World Cup, Qatar emerged from the shadows of its neighboring cities, Dubai and Abu Dhabi, onto the global stage. Soccer fans caught glimpses of Doha, the coastal capital, showcasing its luxury malls and bustling souks, all set against a backdrop of striking art and modern skyscrapers. However, just under an hour’s drive towards the Inland Sea, I discovered a different kind of thrill: a four-wheel-drive desert adventure.

Numerous tour operators provide desert adventures. My experience was arranged by Qatar Tourism last October. Before we hit the sand dunes, our convoy of pristine white Lexus and Toyota SUVs made a stop at a camel farm to deflate the tires—lowering tire pressure improves traction on the ever-shifting sands. My driver, Abdullah, the convoy leader, noticed my large camera and invited me to take the front seat.

With our vehicles prepared, we ventured into the Mesaieed Desert under the warm afternoon sun. Abdullah wasted no time; he pressed down on the accelerator, and we shot up a sandy ridge. In the passenger seat, camera in hand, I was jolted around in a thrilling test of the seatbelt as we embarked on what is known as “dune ing.” Drivers skillfully maneuver up and down the dunes, navigating unstable terrain—at times, our vehicle would slide sideways across the sand, reminiscent of ice. Mastering the angles to ascend or descend a dune without tipping requires expertise. Abdullah expertly drove with one hand on the wheel, seemingly capable of doing it with his eyes closed.

Tire tracks etched a pattern across the moonlike terrain. "How do you navigate out here?" I playfully inquired, knowing GPS wouldn’t be much help. He chuckled, sharing that this is his weekend picnic spot with family after a grueling 60+ hour workweek leading tours across Qatar.

Colorful flags dotted various areas of the desert. "There’s a major dune buggy race happening this weekend," Abdullah mentioned. I regretted not being around to witness it.

As the sun began to set, the light across the dunes transformed, with shadows deepening along the undulating sands. Just an hour earlier, the landscape had seemed gray and desolate under the harsh sunlight. Now, a gentle warmth enveloped the scene, as oranges and yellows emerged in the sand, beautifully contrasting with the magenta hues painting the sky. It was shaping up to be a true “magic hour.”

We made several stops for me to capture photos, with Abdullah encouraging me to hurry so we could reach the coastline in time for sunset. Qatar is one of the few places in the world where the desert meets the sea so dramatically.

As we neared the vibrant blue waters, I noticed a number of large SUVs parked along the shore. "Teenagers love to come here for some privacy," Abdullah joked. It seems the same trend exists everywhere, from Dubai to the suburbs of Los Angeles.

We descended one last dune and arrived at Khor Al Adaid Beach. With the deep blue sea on our left and golden dunes on our right, we drove along the beach, the waves gently splashing against the tires. A striking blood-red sun hung directly in front of us. I saw a tourist shed her shirt and dash into the water in her swimsuit. We turned off the air conditioning, rolled down the windows to welcome the warm breeze, and watched as the sun slowly sank into the hazy Arabian horizon.