A beginner's guide to Cabo Verde

Marc has just returned from Cabo Verde, where he researched and wrote the upcoming Pocket Cabo Verde (available October 2024). Here, he addresses your most common questions about this stunning archipelago.

Located off the coast of Senegal, the former Portuguese colony of Cabo Verde is a fascinating archipelago of ten islands, offering an incredible variety of experiences.

Each island is unique, providing vastly different experiences and atmospheres. While many flock to this Atlantic paradise for winter beach getaways, Cabo Verde offers much more, including desert stargazing, volcanic hikes, vibrant cultural fusions, and peaceful trekking. Here, we tackle some essential questions for first-time visitors eager to explore Cabo Verde.

When is the best time to visit Cabo Verde?

For Europeans, Cabo Verde shines as a winter sun spot, with January daytime temperatures averaging around 25°C (77°F). The warmest months are August and September, when temperatures can exceed 30°C (86°F). If the sea breeze dies down during this period, the heat can become intense. Many travelers flock to Boa Vista during these hotter months to witness the mesmerizing sight of turtles nesting on the beaches at night.

Following Rio and Funchal, Mindelo boasts one of the Atlantic’s finest carnivals, featuring a lively Brazilian samba parade that weaves through the city’s streets (late January/early February). It’s an exciting time to be in the city.

How long should I stay in Cabo Verde?

The duration of your stay in Cabo Verde largely depends on your travel plans for the archipelago. If you intend to explore three or four islands, allocate at least three weeks, allowing ample time for potential flight and ferry cancellations. For a beach-centric holiday with a few activities, a week or 10 days should be sufficient. It generally takes about a week to see all the islands, which means nearly two months to experience the entire country.

Is getting around Cabo Verde straightforward?

The short answer is no! Locals may react with disbelief at your ambitious two-week, six-island itinerary that includes midnight ferries and complicated flight routes via Praia. Simply put, interisland transport is often unreliable, with ferries frequently canceled or delayed for days, and flights resembling a game of chance. However, some routes are exceptions: for example, the ferry from Mindelo on São Vicente to Porto Novo on Santo Antão is fairly dependable, and flights between Mindelo and the capital, Praia, usually depart eventually.

Within the individual islands, taxis and shared taxis known as aluguers are the primary forms of transportation. Renting a car is beneficial on Santiago and possibly Santo Antão, but not in other areas. To access remote attractions, you'll typically need a guide with a rugged 4WD, often a sturdy Toyota Hilux.

Must-do activities in Cabo Verde

Away from the beach, one of the top experiences on Sal is floating in the saline pools of Pedra do Lume, while adventuring through the towering dunes of the Viana Desert in a Toyota Hilux makes for an unforgettable day on Boa Vista. Tarrafal beach offers some of the best moments on Santiago, and hiking up Pico do Fogo, an active volcano, is the highlight of Fogo. In Mindelo, visit the CNAD – National Centre for Arts, Craft and Design before heading to Santo Antão for a hike in the lush Paúl Valley.

My top activity in Cabo Verde

As the locals say, if you haven't visited Mindelo, you haven't truly experienced Cabo Verde. This vibrant and cultured city is my absolute favorite spot in the archipelago. Mindelo feels almost European, with its lively atmosphere and a picturesque seafront promenade, all set against the backdrop of rugged mountains rising from the Atlantic. Spend your day exploring cultural institutions and indulging in the best cafés, savoring cachupa (a delicious mix of beans, corn, and either fish or meat) along with delightful Portuguese sweets. When evening falls, treat yourself to fresh seafood, often accompanied by the sounds of live local music.

What currencies are accepted in Cabo Verde?

In Sal and to some extent Boa Vista, you can rely mainly on euros and card payments. In most other areas, you'll be using the Cabo Verdean escudo (CVE) or cards. Note that in Praia and occasionally Mindelo, ATM lines can be long as locals withdraw their salaries at the beginning of the month, and ATMs frequently run out of cash, particularly in Santa Maria and Mindelo. Interestingly, despite a large US diaspora, vendors often frown upon US dollars.

How much should I budget for Cabo Verde?

Your expenses in euros or Cabo Verdean escudos (CVE) will vary significantly based on the island(s) you choose to visit. Santa Maria is the priciest destination, with European-level prices on everything, closely followed by Boa Vista. In contrast, the larger cities of Praia and Mindelo offer surprisingly good value, while the rural areas of Santiago and Santo Antão are very affordable for tourists. Dining out in the cities can be as budget-friendly or as extravagant as you wish, but in more remote areas, you'll find prices that are pleasantly low, just like the chips served with every meal.

If you're planning to explore multiple islands, flights are reasonably priced by European standards and include baggage fees, while ferries offer an even more economical option. The best way to navigate the islands on a budget is by shared taxi, which costs between CVE100 and CVE500 per ride.

• Basic room for two: CVE2000

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): CVE7000

• Guide per hour: CVE1000

• Local espresso: CVE70

• Plate of cachupa: CVE300

• Dinner for two: CVE2500

• Local beer at a bar: CVE200

What should I specifically bring for my trip to Cabo Verde?

If you're visiting Santa Maria on Sal, remember to pack mosquito repellent and possibly a mosquito net for sleeping. Sturdy shoes are essential, whether you're planning a short outing on Sal or a full-day trek on Fogo. During the winter months, temperatures can drop below 20°C (68°F) in the evenings, so having a sweater or hoodie on hand is wise.

What is the best island combination to explore?

You have two great options. Santiago has good connections with Fogo, and the ferry between Fogo and Brava is quite dependable. However, the links between São Vicente and Santo Antão are excellent, making them the ideal pairing. Interestingly, the two most frequented islands, Sal and Boa Vista, are only accessible by flights during summer and by an often unreliable ferry at other times.

Do people in Cabo Verde speak English?

In Sal (and to a lesser extent, Boa Vista), you'll find it easy to converse in English. However, on other islands, you might want to brush up on your French or pick up some Portuguese, as most Cabo Verdeans are fluent in it. The local language is Cabo Verdean Creole, which, despite its Portuguese roots, has a distinctly different sound.