A Beginner's Guide to Malawi

Known as 'the warm heart of Africa,' Malawi lives up to its reputation with the genuine hospitality you'll encounter. The warmth of its people complements experiences like enjoying Malawi gin at sunset on the beach and witnessing majestic elephants and alert cheetahs in their natural habitat.

This country is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The expansive Lake Malawi teems with vibrant cichlid fish, while the towering Mulanje invites hikers to explore its lush trails. Additionally, the national parks are witnessing a promising comeback in wildlife populations.

When is the best time to visit Malawi?

The ideal period for visiting Malawi is from May to September when the climate is typically mild. October can bring sweltering heat, but it’s also a great time to admire the wildflowers on the cool Nyika Plateau. April, known as the 'emerald season,' showcases Malawi’s lush greenery post-rains, though the thick foliage might hinder wildlife sightings. From November to March, heavy rains can block roads and disrupt travel plans, but fewer tourists during this time can provide a more immersive experience of local life.

Music enthusiasts should plan their trip around the Lake of Stars music festival in September, a vibrant celebration of both local and global music by the lakeside. During the same period, don't miss the Sand Music Festival and the new multi-disciplinary Cape Maclear Carnival. In November, the Tumaini Festival showcases the remarkable talents of the residents from Dzaleka Refugee Camp.

How long should I spend in Malawi?

To traverse Malawi from north to south, a month is ideal for exploration. If your focus is the Lake of Stars, ensure you include at least two other locations in your itinerary: a week will provide a delightful taste of the country. Pair the festival with a visit to Liwonde National Park, where you're likely to see elephants and hippos, then venture up the escarpment to Livingstonia, home to the affordable and unique Mushroom Lodge, an example of ethical and enjoyable travel.

Is it easy to navigate and travel within Malawi?

Visitors to Malawi typically arrive at airports in either Lilongwe or Blantyre (with flights to Lilongwe dropping passengers before continuing to Blantyre).

A fairly dependable bus network links the major urban areas, but minibuses are best avoided—they only leave when full (which can take hours), and the cramped conditions combined with reckless driving can be quite uncomfortable.

The historic MV Ilala ferry travels along the lake, connecting its key settlements and providing a scenic alternative to driving. Be sure to check the timetable for your lake shore itinerary and lodging, but keep in mind that delays are not uncommon.

Must-See Attractions in Malawi

Beyond the luxury safari lodges, Malawi offers some wonderfully rustic accommodation choices. Cape Maclear by the lake is perfect for immersing yourself in local life; at budget-friendly spots like the beachfront Warm Heart with its charming thatched cottages, you can swim alongside local fishermen. Enjoy a boat trip to Thumbi Island for snorkeling with vibrant fish and eagle watching, then kayak along the shore as the sun sets. Casual eateries serve variations of chambo (fish) and chips, while central Hiccups bar is ideal for grabbing a beer and dancing the night away. 

My favorite activity in Malawi

Upon arriving in Lilongwe, I always head straight to the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, a stunning oasis of riverine nature located near the city center. This sanctuary cares for rescued, orphaned, and injured wildlife, and you can follow their heartwarming journey on the Trust’s Instagram feed. A raised boardwalk made from recycled plastic allows you to stroll through the trees, away from the occasional wandering crocodiles—a reminder of the wilderness in this urban area. A lovely café and an impressive craft stall complete an excellent visitor experience.

What is the budget for a trip to Malawi?

While you can splurge if you wish, mid-range hotels and lodges deliver exceptional value, and dining out is quite economical. The country’s exquisite crafts, including basketry and vibrant chitenje fabric clothing, are affordably priced given their quality. 

In terms of safaris, Malawi offers fantastic value compared to its neighbors. Parks like Liwonde provide budget-friendly camping as well as great locally owned lodges situated within or nearby the park. Entry fees are also quite reasonable when compared to other African nations. Here’s a guide to local prices in USD.

• Beachfront thatched lodge: $30–90+ per night
• Coach fare from Lilongwe to Blantyre: $6
• All-inclusive luxury safari lodge stay: $400+
• Custom-tailored suit: $15
• Samosa snack: $1
• Dinner for two: $25
• Heineken 'green' beer at the bar: $2

What are the payment methods? 

Be prepared to use cash in Malawi, as many smaller establishments and cafes do not accept credit cards. It’s advisable to bring some dollars for exchange at the airport, in case the ATMs are out of service. Larger hotels and restaurants accept dollars, but otherwise, transactions are in the local currency, the kwacha.

Is the tap water safe to drink?

Unfortunately, Malawi’s tap water is not safe for drinking. Instead of purchasing bottled water, consider investing in a filtered water bottle that you can refill on the go: these effectively remove impurities and make the tap water safe to drink.