A Beginner's Guide to Serifos, Greece

If you're dreaming of a Greek island getaway without the tourist crowds, have you thought about Serifos?

Nestled in the Cyclades, just northwest of Paros and Sifnos, Serifos is one of the least-explored Greek islands, boasting a rugged charm with its undulating brown mountains descending into expansive ultramarine bays.

Mostly untouched except for the main port of Livadi and the picturesque hilltop capital of Hora (sometimes called Chora), the island exudes a wild and untamed spirit. Its vast open landscapes feature remnants of former mining activities (like rusted tracks and cranes), pristine little beaches, and the powerful rush of wind (which can be quite strong).

However, change is on the horizon, with modern holiday homes emerging along the hillside by the bays. Even the historic Hora now boasts a trendy bar or two. Above Platys Gialos beach, Chrysoloras Winery offers delightful vineyard tastings and produces some excellent organic white wines.

Before the secrets of Serifos become widely known, take the opportunity to discover this timeless island. We have some suggestions from our guidebooks on Greece and the Greek Islands to help you experience the charm of this incredible and unassuming destination.

When is the best time to visit Serifos?

Summer is the perfect season, offering warm and sunny weather that lets you enjoy Serifos' stunning beaches. It's also easy to plan day trips to neighboring islands during summer when ferries run on a regular schedule. Hotels welcome guests, and family-owned tavernas on the hills and by the coast serve leisurely lunches and dinners. August is particularly festive, with live music and traditional celebrations.

Greek Orthodox Easter, usually celebrated in April, is a wonderful time to experience Serifos, as various festivities unfold across the island. Late spring and early autumn are also delightful periods to visit, offering attractive accommodation deals and cooler temperatures perfect for hiking. However, be aware that the island largely shuts down from October to May, with some ferry services temporarily suspended.

How long should I stay on Serifos?

While Serifos is small, you'll want at least three to four days to truly appreciate it. This timeframe allows for leisurely beach days and exploration of the island's interior. Life here is unhurried, especially in July and August when temperatures rise, so take a cue from the locals and savor the slow pace.

Is getting to and around Serifos easy?

Serifos lacks an airport, but you can easily reach it from the port of Piraeus in Athens. Be sure to book your ferry tickets ahead of time, as they sell out quickly in summer. Serifos enjoys good summer ferry connections along the Piraeus to the Western Cyclades route.

High-season ferry services include:

• Piraeus (€37.50–63.70, 2 to 4 hrs 30 mins, daily)

• Kythnos (€7.50–15, 1 hr 15 mins, daily)

• Sifnos (€7–24.70, 20 mins to 2 hrs 40 mins, daily)

• Milos (€12–29.70, 1 to 2 hrs, daily)

• Syros (€7.50, 2 hrs 15 mins, daily)

The island features a convenient main road that forms a loop, making it easy to explore. It’s best to travel in a clockwise direction, allowing you to reach the northern part later in the day for stunning sunset views, with a short return distance to Livadi.

Buses link Livadi and Hora, with schedules displayed at the bus stop near the yacht quay. During high season, a circular bus route includes Panagia, Galani, Kendarhos, and Agios Ioannis Beach (up to six services daily), along with a couple of daily buses to Megalo Livadi and Koutalas. Cyclists will appreciate Serifos for its relatively quiet roads. Bike rentals, along with cars, scooters, and quads, are available in Livadi from places like Blue Bird, Poseidon Rent a Car, or Serifos Tours.

A picturesque 2.5km (1.5-mile) pedestrian path (route 1A) meanders down from Hora to Livadi, free of vehicles.

Must-do activities on Serifos

Relax in easygoing Livadi

As Serifos' main port and largest settlement, Livadi attracts many visiting yachts. However, aside from the regular ferries arriving at the long stone jetty, it has the relaxed vibe of a beach town. The waterfront features some of the island's top tavernas and bars, along with cozy pensions overlooking the long, narrow sandy beach. Livadakia beach is just a short stroll from the town.

Wander through the charming lanes of Hora

Perched on a rocky peak above Livadi, this whitewashed village is one of the most visually stunning towns in the Cyclades. From the central square shadowed by old windmills, narrow lanes weave into the heart of Hora. Meander through the winding alleys and steps, dotted with a few shops, leading southeast to the ancient acropolis and the remnants of the 15th-century Venetian kastro (castle) and the Church of Agios Konstantinos, all offering breathtaking views of the island and the sea, with Sifnos visible in the distance.

Experience the finest beaches of Serifos

The island's most breathtaking beach, Agios Sostis, is a scenic 40-minute walk northeast of Livadi. It stretches along a sandy spit ending in a headland crowned by a blue-domed church and rugged golden cliffs. Flanked by gravelly beaches and crystal-clear waters, it perfectly frames views of the distant islands. The best way to access it is on foot, as the access road is rough and parking is limited to just a few cars.

Next, you'll find the charming Psili Ammos, nestled below the main road, ideal for swimming and home to a couple of tavernas. A steep side road leads to Platys Gialos in the north, which boasts gravelly sand and a seasonal taverna. Sykamia ranks among the island's finest beaches, featuring a dramatic approach along a steep, winding, sealed road through terraced hills. A good taverna is located slightly inland from its pebble-strewn, grey-brown sands.

The quaint Megalo Livadi, situated on the southwest coast, is notable for its crumbling neoclassical buildings, remnants from the mining era, and charming seaside tavernas, although the beach tends to be muddy and rocky. Nearby lies the cave reputed to be the dwelling of the Cyclops.

The prime beaches along the south coast are typically broad and sandy, remaining deserted outside of peak season. This rugged landscape is dotted with abandoned machinery. Three beaches share a spacious, sheltered bay: Koutalas, a quaint fishing village with a shaded, pebbly beach and a nostalgic taverna; Ganema, featuring a tamarisk-lined beach of golden sand along with a beach bar offering loungers; and Vagia, a stunning horseshoe of golden sand that has attracted a few new holiday homes.

Explore Serifos's hiking paths

You can discover the island through a network of trails—some marked—varying in length and difficulty. For cross-country hikes, it’s advisable to bring food and water, as amenities are sparse. The ancient 5km (3-mile) loop trail connecting Livadi and Hora serves as an excellent introduction to the island, allowing you to walk one way and return by bus.

A trail from Hora leads north for approximately 4.5km (2.8 miles) to the small village of Kendarhos (also known as Kallitsos), from where you can continue along the winding main road for another 3km (1.9 miles) to the Monastery of Moni Taxiarhon. This walk from Hora to the monastery takes around two hours. Another rewarding hike is the steep trail from the village of Panagia down to the secluded Sykamia Beach.

Our top recommendation for Serifos

The Monastery of the Taxiarches, dedicated to the archangels Michael and Gabriel and built in 1572, was fortified against pirates and is well worth a visit for its stunning 18th-century frescoes and small cemetery. This monastery is situated in the village of Gilani in the northern part of the island.

Just north of the turnoff for Megalo Livadi beach in Livadi, the Dinogo Aspros Pyrghos (White Tower) is a short stroll from the main road. According to Greek mythology, this archaeological site, which may date back to the Hellenistic period, was constructed by the Cyclops.

Serifos Scuba Divers offers scuba diving experiences at various sites around the island, including wrecks. During July and August, they organize full-day snorkeling excursions. The company also provides boat rentals and exciting fly-board sessions.

What’s the budget for a trip to Serifos?

Serifos is generally more affordable compared to other Cycladic islands like Mykonos and Santorini, but like many places globally, prices have increased significantly in recent years.

• Hostel dorm: starting at €50 during high season

• Basic double room: €110

• Ferry ticket from Athens to Serifos: €37.50 for a 4.5-hour ride; €63.70 for a 2.5-hour speedboat

• Dinner for two: €30–50

• Casual lunch: €7

• Coffee: €0.60–2

• Bus fare from Livadi to Hora/southern beaches/northern beaches: €2/€3–4/€2

• Local beer: €2