A Brooklyn transplant reveals her must-visit spots

Missy Robbins has a fondness for grappa.

Before offering me a taste of a few grappa varieties from the Lilia menu, the hugely popular Italian restaurant she co-owns and runs in Brooklyn, Robbins reassures me that not all of them have the harsh 'gasoline' taste people associate with the drink.

Grappa’s strong reputation precedes it. So does Robbins'.

Named the best New York City chef by the 2018 James Beard Awards, Robbins has certainly made a name for herself.

As you'd expect from an award-winning chef, securing a reservation at Lilia can be challenging. But dedicated fans of Robbins don't mind waiting outside the Williamsburg hotspot for a chance at a coveted table.

Once inside, guests might be drawn to start with the chicken liver crostini (which is absolutely divine) or the house-made mozzarella. No matter what they choose, one bite in, and they'll understand why Lilia has such a devoted following.

When asked to describe her first restaurant—she has another spot opening in Williamsburg soon—Robbins simply says, 'There’s nothing on this menu I wouldn’t want to eat.'

This philosophy influences every dish. 'If I’m not feeling it, and it’s not something I’d personally order, it probably won’t make it to the menu,' Robbins says.

Black bass with salsa verde and coal-roasted potatoes at Lilia Courtesy of Lilia/Evan Sung

The Brooklyn Move

Though Williamsburg, a northern Brooklyn neighborhood, has been popular for over a decade, it wasn’t always Robbins’ ideal spot. (And the grappa she enjoys—one with chamomile hints and another with a smoky cherry flavor—definitely doesn’t taste like gasoline.)

A self-described 'Manhattanite,' Robbins spent many years in the West Village. However, the frustration of too many evenings spent in traffic after long days at Lilia led her to contemplate moving to Brooklyn, even if only for a little while.

She initially thought her Brooklyn move would only last a year or two. But now that she’s settled in, she can’t imagine leaving anytime soon.

“I’m part of the community,” she says, listing her favorite local spots as though they were cherished friends.

Domino Park, Williamsburg, Brooklyn Courtesy of Domino Park/Daniel Levin

Exploring Williamsburg

There’s Butler, the cozy coffee shop just across from her building; Okonomi, a tiny Japanese eatery known for its traditional breakfasts, which Robbins adores for their 'elegant, beautiful, and ever-changing preparations'; and one of the neighborhood’s newest gems, Domino Park.

Robbins has clearly fallen in love with the 'laid-back' community. In fact, she’s completely enchanted by it.

Okonomi Courtesy of George Padilla/Okonomi

The people here are warm and welcoming, and Robbins says she feels more at home in Williamsburg than she ever did in the West Village.

Although Robbins admits she doesn’t have much free time to explore all of Williamsburg’s hotspots, she makes a point to enjoy the neighborhood whenever her schedule permits.

Maison Premiere, known for its exceptional cocktails, is one of Robbins’ top spots—and a place she frequented long before making the move to Brooklyn.

The atmosphere there is fantastic, Robbins notes. 'It’s a bit sexy, a bit dark,' and she loves the bar’s 'old-school charm.'

Maison Premiere Courtesy of Maison Premiere

The Four Horsemen, a gastropub nestled in the heart of the neighborhood, is another of Robbins’ favorite spots in Williamsburg for drinks and small bites.

If she can find the time, Robbins enjoys a pastrami sandwich and matzo ball soup at Frankel’s Delicatessen, a family-run Jewish deli in nearby Greenpoint.

That is, unless she’s squeezing into a seat at the legendary Peter Luger Steakhouse for one of their famous hamburgers, a lunchtime-only menu option.

Whether she’s dining at Peter Luger’s or strolling through Domino Park with an iced cortado from Butler, Robbins feels right at home in 'this small town within New York.'

Lilia was once an auto body shop. Courtesy of Lilia/Evan Sung

Lilia's immense popularity

Lilia has become so cherished that it’s not just a neighborhood haunt for regulars grabbing a bowl of rigatoni at the bar—it’s a destination in its own right.

Since this wasn’t exactly the goal Robbins had in mind, she’s still adjusting to the reality that diners want to explore every single one of the seven menu sections.

However, Robbins isn’t complaining, nor is her team, who appear as polished and composed as any NYC staff I’ve encountered.

On particularly hectic days when the kitchen is swamped and there’s no time to prepare a family meal for the staff, Robbins calls her friends at Joe’s Pizza to have some pies sent over.

With friends like these, who could ever leave Brooklyn?