A complete guide for first-timers visiting Yellowstone National Park: Key sights and activities to enjoy
I just got back from an unforgettable adventure at Yellowstone, America's first national park. It felt surreal to be there during the COVID-19 era, but it turned out to be one of my best experiences. The park was less crowded than usual, and I had the chance to stay inside the park for the first time, which made the trip even more special.
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Yellowstone is vast, covering 2.2 million acres, and you could easily spend weeks exploring it without seeing it all. However, even a short visit or a weekend getaway is definitely worth your time. Here's everything you need to know to make the most of your trip to Yellowstone National Park.
Top attractions and must-do activities in Yellowstone
Let's begin with the most exciting part: the incredible wildlife.
In Yellowstone, you'll encounter a wide range of rare animals, including grizzly and brown bears, wolves, mountain lions, foxes, coyotes, elk, deer, bison, moose, and a variety of bird species. It's common to see these creatures from the roadside, and sometimes, you might spot them all at once. Bison, in particular, are notorious for causing traffic delays as they share the same roads with visitors.
Mother and baby grizzly bears in Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)Yellowstone offers a wealth of adventures for travelers. Whether you're into camping, backcountry hiking, boating, fishing, cycling, or even cross-country skiing in the winter, there's something for everyone to enjoy.
Hiking and biking are fantastic ways to immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of this park, with plenty of mountain biking and off-road trails to explore. Campsites start as low as $5 per night, and there are nearly 900 miles of trails to discover. Just be sure to stay alert, as you’ll be sharing the park with some formidable wildlife. During my visit, I encountered both bears and wolves.
(Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)Yellowstone offers numerous amazing hikes that are easy to access and not too challenging. One of my favorites was the short 2.5-mile hike to Mystic Falls from Biscuit Basin, close to Old Faithful. The trail leads to a stunning waterfall, and if you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of Old Faithful erupting in the distance.
Old Faithful erupting in Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)Old Faithful
One of Yellowstone's most iconic features, Old Faithful is a giant geyser that erupts predictably every 60 to 110 minutes. Located in the Upper Geyser Basin, it's easily accessible by road, and park rangers provide eruption times throughout the day. Benches are available for visitors to sit and witness the spectacular event. Old Faithful erupts approximately 20 times daily, sending water and steam up to 180 feet into the air!
While lodges near Old Faithful are typically available, for the 2020 season, only cabins are being offered for accommodations.
Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, carved by the Yellowstone River, is perhaps my favorite spot in the park. I've visited during different seasons, and every time, it's a completely new experience—constantly changing, always beautiful, and always awe-inspiring.
There are multiple viewpoints to explore, and this area stands out as one of the most striking in the entire country. Artist Point, in particular, is a spot I really love. It's easy to see why it earned its name.
Don't miss the viewing spots at either the Lower or Upper Falls of the Canyon. I especially recommend visiting the Brink of the Lower Falls for an up-close experience of the river's raw power. If you're driving, you'll likely stop frequently to take in new breathtaking views.
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs was one of the first places in the park to be monitored in the 1800s due to poaching issues. The U.S. Army established a base there, which continues to house park staff today, and it also hosts the historic Fort Yellowstone.
Mammoth Hot Springs offers a variety of amenities, including lodges, cabins, dining options, and even a gas station for convenience.
The real highlight, however, is the stunning hot springs with boardwalks providing close-up views. You can explore the steaming hydrothermal pools and beautiful travertine terraces, and take a stroll (or drive) to the Upper Terraces. There’s also a hiking trail around the pools and falls, but don’t forget your bear spray. During my visit, I saw a grizzly bear with her cubs one day, and the next morning, another grizzly near the road.
The area is also home to large herds of elk, so you’re almost guaranteed to see them during your visit.
Biscuit Basin and Mystic Falls
Just a short distance from Old Faithful, Biscuit Basin features beautiful hot springs and smaller geysers that erupt with regularity.
The vibrant colors and unique textures of the rocks are truly eye-catching. A wooden boardwalk will guide you to an easy hike leading to Mystic Falls, where you'll be rewarded with a breathtaking waterfall nestled in a river valley.
Outside the park, cities like Gardiner and West Yellowstone, Montana, offer plenty of family-friendly activities. For example, the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone lets you and your kids observe live bears and wolves that can't be reintroduced into the wild, all while learning about these fascinating animals from a safe distance.
Whether you're exploring the park on foot or by car, don't forget to purchase an $80 annual national park pass. Yellowstone's regular entrance fee is $35 per vehicle, so if you plan to visit other national parks, the pass is a great way to save money.
Grizzly bear in Yellowstone National Park, June 2020. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)The best times to visit Yellowstone
Summer is undoubtedly the peak season when everything is open. While it can get hot, the lack of humidity makes it more bearable. Pack shorts for the daytime but be sure to bring sweaters, sweatshirts, or a coat since the temperature drops significantly at night, even in summer, due to Yellowstone's mountain location.
Yellowstone is accessible year-round, including in the winter, which offers a truly magical (albeit chilly) experience. Warren Smith, a chiropractor from HealthSource in Butte, Montana, shared that he has cross-country skied into the park from West Yellowstone, and there are outfitters offering snowmobiling tours.
Personally, I love visiting in early fall when the crowds thin out and the foliage starts to change colors. The weather is more moderate, and it’s not as hot. It’s also a great time to spot wildlife, and the park feels a bit more peaceful. However, be prepared for unexpected snowstorms, even in September — so pack layers for all conditions.
Check out our complete guide on the best times to visit Yellowstone.
Where to stay in Yellowstone
There are numerous accommodations available both inside and near Yellowstone. From vacation rentals to hotels, you'll find options at all five park entrances, three of which are in Montana and two in Wyoming.
Points hotels near Yellowstone
For hotels or rental properties near the three Montana entrances, check out Cook City, Gardiner, Red Lodge, or West Yellowstone. You'll also find plenty of lodging options at the two Wyoming entrances, including in Cody, Wyoming, and nearby areas in Idaho.
If you're hoping to use points for your stay, the choices are more limited unless you're open to staying a bit further from the park, such as in Bozeman, Montana or Idaho Falls, Idaho.
For instance, the Holiday Inn in West Yellowstone offers last-minute rooms in July starting at $281 per night. While that's on the pricey side, booking in advance can help you secure better rates. A long weekend in September would cost around $252 per night, or you can use 45,000 IHG Rewards Points per night.
(Screenshot courtesy Holiday Inn/ IHG)I reserved a room here in July and, despite booking last minute, I was able to get a reasonable rate. Just be aware of the extra taxes and fees (West Yellowstone is one of the few places in Montana that charges them). After everything was added up, the total came to nearly $300 a night. Ouch.
(Screenshot courtesy Holiday Inn/ IHG)There are also two Choice Hotels in West Yellowstone worth considering: An Ascend Hotel priced at $212 per night, and a Comfort Inn starting at $186 per night. Choice also operates select properties in Livingston, Montana, though it's about an hour's drive from the park.
(Screenshot courtesy Choice Hotels)For those with Wyndham points, the Days Inn by Wyndham West Yellowstone offers rooms starting at 15,000 points per night. If you're a member of Best Western Rewards, you can book a stay at either the Best Western Desert Inn or Best Western Weston Inn, both starting at 28,000 points per night.
If you're after a larger chain hotel, you'll need to make your way to Bozeman, Montana, where you'll find Hilton and Marriott properties. Rates tend to be more affordable, but be prepared for a two-hour drive to Yellowstone. Peak summer season prices can still reach at least $250 per night, even in 2020.
The upcoming 122-room Kimpton Armory Hotel Bozeman, set to open on Aug. 18, will be one of the area's most exciting new hotels. This art deco building, dating back to 1941, features a whiskey bar, a rooftop pool, and a concert hall. Located about an hour from Big Sky and two hours from Yellowstone's north entrance, it's bound to be a popular spot.
In Big Sky, the Wilson Hotel, a Residence Inn by Marriott, is a recent addition to the area, marking one of the first major brand hotels in the region.
Staying within Yellowstone National Park
Inside Yellowstone, visitors will find several charming yet rustic lodges. Xanterra manages all accommodations in the park, including those at Glacier and other national parks. Many of these historic lodges have been around for over a century, so it's important to adjust your expectations for the experience.
During peak season, hotels in Yellowstone tend to fill up quickly. Even with travel restrictions due to the coronavirus, availability is still limited. As of now, only cabins are open, while larger lodges remain closed, possibly for the rest of 2020. This makes booking inside the park even more competitive than usual.
I managed to find some available dates, but prices are on the higher side. For instance, cabins at Mammoth Falls Lodge were going for $277 per night for July and August stays.
Back in June, I stayed in one of the cabins at Mammoth Hot Springs Lodge. While the cabins are quaint and simple, they lack air conditioning and have small beds. Despite that, it was a unique experience to stay inside the park, with easy access to scenic hiking trails and the stunning Mammoth Springs.
The cabins at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)The cozy cabins at Old Faithful Lodge are just a stone's throw from the iconic Old Faithful geyser. Though compact, they make for an ideal home base for exploring the nearby geysers, hot springs, and mountains. When I visited in June, rates for August began at $174 per night.
Cabins at Old Faithful Lodge in Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)If you're planning to stay inside the park this summer, you'd better act quickly.
Betsy O'Rourke, CMO at Xanterra, shared with TPG earlier this year, "We release reservations 13 months in advance, and they tend to sell out within hours. However, around 30% of bookings are canceled and rebooked."
Her recommendation? Keep checking. "Our cancellation policy is 48 hours, so we do get last-minute openings."
You might find better deals by opting for a vacation rental. Airbnb offers a variety of properties, including unique options like traditional log cabins, glamping tents, or even treehouses.
Even with short notice, there are still options available on Airbnb outside the park. I found several choices near Montana's Western entrance starting at $157 per night, particularly around West Yellowstone or Gardiner.
(Screenshot courtesy of Airbnb)Luxury stays near Yellowstone
Using your credit card points to help cover the cost of a premium stay near Yellowstone can be a smart move. For example, you can redeem Chase Ultimate Rewards points to book a room at an independent hotel or "erase" a qualifying travel charge with a Capital One Venture Rewards card.
The Under Canvas "glamping" lodge is just a 10-minute drive from Yellowstone's West Entrance. I found availability in August for $264 per night. Including taxes and fees, a four-night stay would cost just over $1,200.
If you're in the mood for a lavish getaway, consider the Triple Creek Ranch in Darby, Montana, about 4.5 hours from Yellowstone, with rates starting at $1,600 per night. Alternatively, Paws Up resort in Greenough, Montana is another luxurious option, also 4.5 hours away, with rooms priced around $1,700 per night. Additionally, Montana's first-ever five-star, ultra-luxury hotel, the Montage in Big Sky, is set to open in 2021.
Camping in Yellowstone
For those who enjoy the outdoors, Yellowstone offers 12 official campgrounds with over 2,000 individual campsites. Reservations can be made through Yellowstone National Park lodges, with average rates around $27 per night.
Several campgrounds are available on a first-come, first-served basis, but they tend to fill up quickly during the summer. Due to the pandemic in 2020, some campgrounds were closed, and only four out of twelve were open and accepting reservations by mid-July. Most of these sites were fully booked by 7 a.m.
If you're traveling with an RV or camping gear, you can opt for dispersed camping in the surrounding national forests, where you can camp for free or at a minimal cost. The nearby Custer Gallatin and Bridger Teton National Forests offer more primitive camping options for those seeking a more rugged experience.
How to reach Yellowstone
Flying to Yellowstone
Yellowstone is accessible via several nearby airports, with the most convenient being Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (BZN) in Montana, often referred to as the 'Gateway to Yellowstone.' As Montana's busiest airport, it offers nonstop flights from 21 U.S. cities.
American Airlines has heavily invested in Montana, introducing four seasonal flights last year to serve Bozeman this summer. Flights were planned from Los Angeles (LAX), New York-LaGuardia (LGA), and Philadelphia (PHL) to Bozeman, and from LGA to Kalispell (FCA). While these flights have been canceled, there's hope they will resume next year.
American Airlines typically operates nonstop flights from Newark (EWR), Chicago O'Hare (ORD), and Dallas Fort Worth (DFW) to Bozeman. In September, I found main cabin fares ranging from $377 to $425. If you're using miles, coach tickets start at 25,000 AAdvantage miles, while first class requires 50,000 miles, plus $11.20 in taxes and fees.
United Airlines operates flights to Bozeman from six of its major hubs, while Delta Air Lines serves the route from six hubs as well, including Salt Lake City (SLC). Currently, Delta only flies from Minneapolis-Saint Paul (MSP) and Salt Lake City (SLC). Alaska Airlines offers service from Portland, Oregon (PDX) and Seattle (SEA), and Allegiant flies from four cities, including Nashville, Tennessee (BNA). Frontier Airlines departs from Denver (DEN), and Sun Country has flights from Minneapolis. JetBlue traditionally flies from New York-JFK and Boston (BOS), but this summer they are not operating from New York.
(Infographic courtesy of Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport)Expect a two-hour drive from Bozeman to Yellowstone, depending on traffic, weather, and your chosen park entrance. There are several companies offering guided tours of Yellowstone. For example, Karst Stage provides charter buses and day trips from Bozeman to the park.
You can also fly into Jackson Hole Airport (JAC) in Jackson, Wyoming, which is just 45 miles south of the park and offers easy access to Grand Teton National Park. American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, Delta Air Lines, and United Airlines all serve Jackson Hole, and Frontier Airlines provides seasonal service.
Delta offers flights from Salt Lake City starting at approximately $300 in the main cabin during August, or you can redeem 23,000 SkyMiles plus $11.20 in taxes.
(Screenshot courtesy of Delta Air Lines)Another option is flying into Idaho Falls, Idaho, with Idaho Falls Regional Airport (IDA) located less than 100 miles from Yellowstone. Allegiant provides year-round, nonstop flights from Las Vegas (LAS) and Phoenix-Mesa (AZA), as well as seasonal flights from Los Angeles and Oakland (OAK).
Delta operates year-round, nonstop flights from Salt Lake City and seasonal routes from Minneapolis, while United provides service from Denver. United's round-trip flights to IDA were priced at around $347 in the main cabin, or 25,000 United miles plus $11.20 in taxes and fees.
The sign for WYS Airport near Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)You can also fly into Yellowstone's own airport, Yellowstone Airport (WYS), located just 2 miles from the park. Delta offers flights from Salt Lake City, with tickets starting at $175 in August.
(Screenshot courtesy of Delta Air Lines)Where to eat in Yellowstone
Montana and Wyoming aren't exactly known for fine dining. While you'll find plenty of casual eateries and cafés, gourmet dining isn't exactly the highlight.
Personally, I suggest picking up some groceries and packing a picnic for those scenic mountain meadows you'll come across. Don't forget to bring plenty of snacks, as most restaurants are only open during peak season and have limited hours.
Dining options are quite sparse, especially within Yellowstone itself, and even more so during the coronavirus pandemic. Many in-park restaurants are still closed, and those that are open are limited to take-out only. Be prepared for limited options.
Terrace Grill in Yellowstone National Park is offering take-out only during the summer of 2020. (Photo by Clint Henderson/Dinogo)Smith, a chiropractor from Butte, shared his top recommendations for West Yellowstone: the Slippery Otter Pub, famous for its bison and elk burgers, and The Branch Restaurant and Bar. Unfortunately, The Branch was closed during my early July visit, likely due to COVID-19, but I hope it will reopen next year.
One key thing to note when visiting national parks right now is that many restrooms, especially in Yellowstone and Glacier, are closed due to the ongoing pandemic. Be prepared and plan accordingly—motorhome travelers will be fine, but everyone else should map out bathroom stops ahead of time.
Getting around Yellowstone
I highly recommend renting a car—or even an RV!—for your Yellowstone adventure. The park is built for drivers, with well-maintained roads leading to most of the major landmarks. If you're keen on exploring more, make sure to pack your hiking boots. And don’t forget bear spray—just remember, you can't bring it on a plane, so buy it once you land.
If driving isn't your thing, you can hop on a classic Yellowstone Yellow Bus Tour. These vintage 1920s buses, a historic part of the park, offer open-air seating and great views, making them ideal for sightseeing without the hassle of navigating the park’s winding roads.
"Currently, a fleet of eight vintage White Motor Co. buses offers guided tours for wildlife watching, photo safaris, sunset excursions, and more," explains Xanterra, the tour operator. "These classic yellow buses feature retractable canvas roofs and panoramic windows, providing an unbeatable sightseeing experience. Plus, they're a fun way to travel around the park."
These tours tend to book up fast, so be sure to plan ahead. Unfortunately, the Yellow Bus tours will not be running during the 2020 season due to COVID-19 restrictions.
A vintage postcard showcasing Yellowstone's iconic yellow touring cars. (Image courtesy Xanterra)If you're up for it, biking around Yellowstone is an option, though there aren't many dedicated bike lanes. However, there are a few trails specifically meant for mountain biking. You can find a complete guide to biking in Yellowstone, or rent bikes at the Old Faithful Lodge.
In summary
Yellowstone National Park should definitely be on your travel bucket list. It's the perfect time to explore the national parks, and Yellowstone is a personal favorite of mine. Seeing wolves and bears up close was one of the most memorable experiences of my year.
However, if you're heading to Montana, don't just focus on Yellowstone. The state is also home to Glacier National Park and numerous sites that highlight the important history of Native Americans in the U.S. Big Sky, located not far from Yellowstone, is also gaining popularity and is an excellent winter skiing destination.
I highly recommend a trip to Yellowstone this year, especially since many U.S. passport holders may find it challenging to travel abroad. Just be sure to pack your masks and have a solid plan for accommodation and bathroom stops before you go.
*All photos by Clint Henderson/Dinogo.*