A Day of Culinary Delights in Oaxaca

Oaxacan cuisine — much like Oaxaca City itself — is too rich and varied to be captured in just one day of dining, but it’s certainly worth the attempt. World-class flavors can be found at every turn, from dawn until dusk, at the city’s myriad street-food stalls, family-owned fondas, coffee shops, mezcalerías, and upscale restaurants.

Here’s how to enjoy a dreamlike, perfect 24 hours of eating in central Oaxaca: indulge in foam-topped chocolate, succulent tacos, corn in its many forms, smoky salsas from stone molcajetes, fermented fruits bursting with flavor, and an abundance of spicy mezcal as you embark on this epic culinary journey through the winding streets of Oaxaca's food scene.

Note: Over the next 24 hours, you’ll primarily navigate various food hubs around the city, though expect to hail a cab occasionally. Wear comfortable shoes, apply sunscreen, and get ready to eat boldly.

7:30 a.m. Breakfast at the Market

Begin your day at the heart of the city: the sprawling Central de Abastos market. Within its labyrinth of stalls brimming with food and goods, find the renowned Doña Vale. Her appearance on Netflix’s Street Food is well-deserved, as her perfectly crisp memelas are truly exceptional, made with optional lard, fresh cheese, and an array of toppings like tender grilled beef or pork rib. Don’t miss the irresistible huevos al comal (eggs cooked on a clay comal atop hoja santa leaves). Load up on the vibrant, chunky salsas, hand-crushed in a large stone molcajete, featuring a rich tomatillo-chile morita salsa and a zesty tomato and chile verde. Pair your meal with a warm cup of Vale’s traditional café de olla, a lightly spiced coffee drink, or opt for a fresh jugo verde made from celery, parsley, pineapple, and cactus sourced from nearby stalls.

9 a.m. Atole or Hot Chocolate

For centuries, Indigenous Oaxacans have started their mornings not with coffee—introduced by Spanish colonizers in the 16th century—but with a warm, porridge-like atole or frothy hot chocolate. These drinks are celebrated for energizing farmers and warriors, and now, you too. At chef Olga Cabrera’s La Atolería, the corn-based atoles are flavored and sweetened with local ingredients like fruits, cacao, honey, molasses, and amaranth. The red corn and pataxte atole is particularly rare, sourced from Oaxaca's highlands and rainforests, where the nutty pataxte and sweet red corn thrive. Be sure to grab a gluten-free cornflour bread filled with tropical fruit jam from Cabrera’s bakery, Masea, next door.

Chocoholics must visit Chocolatería El Rito, a cacao haven run by third-generation chocolatier Flor Heras. It’s one of the few places in the city that ferments, roasts, and processes cacao beans the traditional way from start to finish. Whether you opt for a hot, cold, or frappe chocolate—or even a scoop of their incredible chocolate ice cream—you’ll experience the same energizing boost that the ancients enjoyed. Don’t forget to take home some of their cacao products, such as chocolate bars and jarred moles.

10:30 a.m. Late-Morning Snack

For all things almuerzo (which literally means lunch but often serves as a light late-morning meal), El Sabor de Cecy is your destination. Their Oaxacan-style yellow mole and chicken empanada is generous enough to share, especially if you want to save room for one of Cecy’s famous tortas. With countless filling options, a standout choice would include a layer of bean paste, avocado, fresh quesillo, pickled carrots, and Oaxacan-style sausage (beef sausages seasoned with fruit vinegar and spices, baked in a wood-fired oven).

11:30 a.m. Coffee Break

In need of a caffeine boost? Onno Lonchería ranks among Oaxaca’s top coffee spots. With its high ceilings, bright white walls, and vintage furnishings, it offers a cozy setting to explore an extensive coffee menu that showcases local bean varieties and diverse preparations. Whether you're in the mood for a lavender frappe, cold brew, or a strong espresso, Onno likely has you covered, along with numerous caffeine-free options like flavored kombuchas.

1 p.m. Lunchtime

Levadura de Olla expertly balances the preservation of ancient cooking methods with contemporary flavors and trends. Chef Thalía Barrios, rooted in the Sierra Sur mountains of Oaxaca, draws inspiration for her vegetable-forward dishes from her family's recipes and the ceremonial smoke kitchens of la Sierra. She highlights native ingredients such as edible flowers, wild herbs, mushrooms, and crafts delicate salsas, tamales, and moles. Don't miss the heirloom tomato salad paired with beetroot puree or the taco de flor de pipe, featuring a large corn tortilla filled with sautéed pipe flowers from the southern mountains. Levadura de Olla also boasts an impressive selection of traditional ancestral beverages — make sure to try at least one.

3 p.m. Refreshing Treat

As the afternoon heat intensifies in Oaxaca, cool down by visiting Mercado Benito Juárez, the city’s oldest market. Here, you can find shot-sized jicaras (vessels) for mezcal, wooden and clay kitchenware, woven bags, and a refreshing Oaxacan nieve at Nieves Chagüita, a long-standing vendor that has been around since before the market's establishment in 1894. Served cold in small cups, nieves are made from frozen, churned fresh fruit, boasting a texture that perfectly balances velvety ice cream and a grainy slushy. While the market's stalls have been remodeled over the years, Chagüita’s century-old recipes transport you back in time. Enjoy a refreshing lime nieve at one of the tables while watching vendors and musicians pass by, or try signature flavors like leche quemada con tuna (smoked milk with prickly pear), mamey, or sorbete (eggnog). For something a bit stronger, head to Mezcalite Pop for a mezcal-infused popsicle in a relaxed setting, with toppings like chamoy, chili salt, and sweet and sour spiced salt, and popsicle bases such as passionfruit and jamaica.

4:30 p.m. Snack Time

After a leisurely stroll around the Zocalo, stop by El Chuy, an elotes and esquites cart, to snack and immerse yourself in Oaxaca's intriguing insect-eating culture. Here, you can enjoy elotes (cooked or grilled corn on the cob) and esquites (cooked corn kernels served in a cup or on a plate) topped with chapulines (grasshopper) or chicatana ant-based mayo, sprinkled with cotija cheese and seasoned with worm salt or tiny whole grasshoppers. Alternatively, escape the bustling streets of the Centro Histórico by heading to the tranquil neighborhood of Trinidad de las Huertas. Right in front of the main church is El Posito, a quaint shop offering Oaxacan piedrazos. A piedrazo is a crunchy, double-baked bread piece, akin to a crouton, which is soaked in a fruit vinegar that resembles kombucha and served with assorted pickled vegetables (carrots, potatoes, onions), a dash of chili salt, and often some quesillo strings. This snack captures the essence of Oaxaca, focusing on the texture of the soaked bread and the sweet, tangy notes of the vinegar — complex, refreshing, and just enough to hold you over until dinner.

5:30 p.m. Pre-Dinner Drinks

Nothing embodies Oaxaca quite like mezcal, and sampling two or three varieties is a delightful way to explore the unique flavors of the local terroir. Located at the southern end of the Centro Histórico, Mezcalería Cuish offers a diverse range of mezcales, from smooth and crisp to earthy and robust. The tasting room's design pays homage to rural mezcal shops and distilleries where the maestros mezcaleros create their craft. Relax on comfortable couches while savoring their creations and taking a well-deserved pause.

If you prefer your agave spirits mixed, head to Selva. Just a short walk from El Chuy’s elotes and esquites cart, Selva is situated on the second floor above Los Danzantes restaurant. Beverage director Alexandra Purcaru’s inventive cocktails blend local herbs, fruits, and grains in a lush, Gatsby-inspired setting filled with tropical plants and rustic adobe walls. It’s the perfect spot for evening drinks, especially if you snag a table on one of the two balconies overlooking the bustling pedestrian streets. Don’t miss the signature Selva (mezcal, chile poblano liqueur, and agave honey) or the Molegroni (mezcal, mole negro bitters, and cassis).

For those who prefer non-alcoholic options, return to Mercado Benito Juárez for Aguas Casilda, a beloved family stall serving aguas frescas (flavored waters) for over a century. Refresh yourself with a classic agua horchata (including a version with cantaloupe and pecans) paired with prickly pear sorbet, or venture into the unusual with flavors like cucumber-lime, zapote, the traditional chilacayota (a type of pumpkin), guanabana (breadfruit), or pineapple.

7:30 p.m. Dinner 1

Rodolfo Castellanos’s Origen stands out as one of the city’s most dynamic and contemporary restaurants, deeply rooted in local traditions. The menu evolves with the seasons, showcasing Castellanos’s mastery of Oaxacan culinary techniques and his deep understanding of the region's terroir. One evening, you might enjoy a green salad topped with agave worms and hoja santa pesto; another could feature roasted duck with coloradito, a curcubita squash risotto infused with smoked Oaxacan cheese and fruits, or plantain dumplings inspired by the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Don’t skip dessert — the chickpeas with panela and coconut cream perfectly exemplify Origen’s balance between tradition and innovation.

9 p.m. Dinner 2

Having two dinners might sound like a lot, but this one is a lighter and delightful conclusion. Crudo is the premier omakase oaxaqueño infused with strong Japanese influences. In a city famed for lengthy smoking and simmering methods, chef Ricardo Arellano seeks to reveal another aspect of Oaxacan cuisine that remains largely untapped. Fresh herbs, insects, and chiles are showcased in their purest form, harmonizing with premium seafood, both raw and cooked, as well as fruits and agave ferments. This immersive experience lasts nearly two hours, set in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Remember, it’s reservation-only, so make sure to secure your spot in advance.

11 p.m. After-Dinner Drinks

Sabina Sabe is not just a repository of agave spirits; it also embodies the essence of Oaxacan nightlife. Explore their extensive range of mezcals, Oaxacan corn whiskey, local craft beers, and specialty cocktails made from regional ingredients in a charming, brick-lined setting. If the potent drinks and low light leave you feeling a bit worn out, don’t worry; late-night snacks are just around the corner.

12:30 a.m. Late-Night Eats

A day of indulgence calls for equally decadent late-night snacks, and the rich, smoky flavors of Oaxaca’s street food deliver perfectly. Situated at the intersection of Mina and Bustamante, Tlayudas Doña Benita is a beloved local favorite. Here, watch as a small charcoal grill churns out crispy tlayudas, which are filled with juicy meats like tasajo, chorizo, or cecina, complemented by beans and gooey cheese. Enhance your dish with a sharp molcajete salsa made from tomatoes and the local chile de agua.

If you’re in the mood for something lighter, head to Taquería Chefinita, a popular stop among bar hoppers, celebrated for its flavorful pozole, along with tacos and tostadas piled high with tender pork and perhaps the spiciest salsa in the city. Alternatively, follow the rhythm of cumbia to Taquería Las Cazuelas, a vibrant 24-hour haven for tacos and tortas located on one of the busiest streets. A gleaming stainless steel counter showcases a variety of fillings, including sautéed veggies like mushrooms or huitlacoche, as well as hearty guisados to counterbalance your late-night indulgence: scrambled eggs with green beans, shredded chicken in guajillo, and pollo en salsa verde (chicken in tomatillo sauce). Cap your perfect day of Oaxacan cuisine with a torta featuring a generous pork leg and a renowned salsa.

María Itaka is a Oaxaca-born writer, translator, and fixer dedicated to connecting cultures through a sensitive and creative approach.Eva Alicia Lépiz is a photographer and educator based in Oaxaca, focusing on stories that celebrate food and culture.