A Dinogo’s Guide to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

On a map, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula sits atop Wisconsin, resembling a rabbit with its ears extending into Lake Superior and its back legs kicking into Lake Huron. The UP (pronounced “you-pee,” not “up”) has long been a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Each summer, countless weekend adventurers travel north from Milwaukee, Detroit, and Chicago, either crossing the 5-mile-long Mackinac (mack-in-awe) Bridge or flying into a small regional airport en route to rustic cabins and secluded lakeside homes.

The Upper Peninsula isn’t just a cute rabbit; it’s rugged territory. Covering around 30 percent of Michigan’s land area (including nearby Drummond Island and Isle Royale), it’s home to only about 300,000 residents—just 3 percent of the state’s population. These resilient individuals, lovingly known as Yoopers, understand the challenges of life here, facing winters with over 200 inches of snowfall and humid summers swarming with mosquitoes, flies, and ticks. Yet, life in the UP can be quite flavorful, featuring wild berries, chaga mushrooms, freshly tapped maple syrup, hearty steak- and potato-stuffed pasties, and weekly fish fries showcasing Great Lakes perch, whitefish, and walleye. Even as COVID-19 restrictions eased, the UP's down-to-earth cuisine remained a significant attraction for visitors, along with its expansive landscapes, convenient access from urban areas, and abundant outdoor activities.

Visitor numbers to the Upper Peninsula have been on the rise throughout the pandemic, with an increasing portion coming from outside the Midwest. Hotels and campgrounds are frequently booked well in advance, so be sure to secure your backwoods cabin soon if you want to savor a pasty at its best.

What defines Yooper cuisine?

Over the centuries, locals have developed a robust food culture suited to the remote and often harsh environment, relying on wild game and hearty staples. Originally, the UP was inhabited by various Indigenous peoples, including the Ojibwe/Chippewa, Menominee, and Potawatomi, who thrived in the northwoods through a combination of hunting, fishing, trapping, foraging for wild fruits like thimbleberries, producing maple syrup, and cultivating rice. In the 19th century, waves of immigrants arrived to work in iron ore mines or logging, starting with French Canadians, followed by miners from Cornwall, England, and later Italians and Scandinavians (primarily from Finland and Sweden). With limited access to trade through the Great Lakes or overland routes, imported food cultures relied on locally available ingredients.

These communities established a legacy of straightforward dining, which has evolved into many beloved local dishes. The most famous is the British pasty, a convenient meal for miners that can be easily transported and reheated; this hand pie consists of pastry filled with meat (usually flank steak or hamburger), potatoes, and rutabaga. Whitefish, plentiful in the Great Lakes, features prominently on local menus as well. Lastly, don’t miss trying cudighi (homemade is preferred); this local specialty from Marquette is made with Italian sausage flavored with allspice, garlic, and nutmeg, pressed into a patty and served on a fresh hard roll with onions and peppers.

With no major urban centers in the peninsula, most food vendors are spread across small towns and villages, along with inns and vacation rentals. Many of these establishments are small, family-run restaurants that have been serving their communities for years. While some fine dining options exist, most venues are casual.

Essential tips for your visit

Pasty Fest: While pasties are available throughout the UP, the city of Calumet hosts the ultimate celebration of this stuffed pastry every summer. The festivities include a parade, a pasty-eating contest, and many local vendors showcasing their unique takes on the classic dish.

Friday fish fry: The tradition of Friday fish fries in the UP was started by Catholic immigrants. Today, you can still enjoy delicious fish fries at many churches, as well as at bars and restaurants across the peninsula. The menu typically features local fish like perch, whitefish, or walleye, served on soft white or rye rolls, accompanied by butter, coleslaw, french fries, and lemon wedges.

North and south shores: The northern shore along Lake Superior is home to some of the UP’s most beloved attractions, including Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, and Paradise on Whitefish Bay. In contrast, the southern shorelines along Lake Michigan are generally flatter and more tranquil.

Garden Peninsula: Nestled in what may seem like an inhospitable environment, this stretch of land extending into Lake Michigan is home to several charming wineries.

Winter in the UP: Many businesses close during the winter months when tourist numbers drop. If you plan to visit off-season, make sure to confirm that your chosen hotels and restaurants are open.

Wild rice: Known as manoomin in Anishinaabemowin, wild rice has been a traditional food for Indigenous peoples in the Great Lakes region. Much of it has been lost due to logging practices that altered river ecosystems. However, thanks to state support, Anishinaabe harvesters are actively reseeding areas in the UP where wild rice once thrived. While it's not yet widely available commercially, you may spot it on some menus as production efforts continue.

Foraging: In Michigan, particularly in the UP, foraging on public lands is not only allowed but is a cherished practice. Common finds include morel mushrooms and a variety of wild berries.

Where to dine

Marquette: With a population of 20,000, Marquette is the largest city in the UP and home to Northern Michigan University, attracting a variety of dining options. Visit Vango’s for a cudighi, a spicy Italian sausage sandwich, or stop by Thill’s Fish House on Lake Superior for smoked whitefish. Don’t miss the classic pasty from Jean Kay’s Pasties, made with flank steak and potatoes just like Grandma would make. For a unique twist, try Lagniappe Cajun Creole Dinogoy for gumbo on a chilly night. The quaint Rice Paddy has been serving takeout Thai cuisine for 30 years. For dinner, Delft Bistro offers lighter options, such as cherry beet bruschetta and bulgur meatballs in pita, while Casa Calabria is perfect for Italian sodas and lasagna.

Keweenaw Peninsula: This vast landmass jutting into Lake Superior is home to numerous small Mytouries. Be sure to visit Jamsen’s Fish Market in Copper Harbor for doughnuts topped with wild thimbleberry frosting and delicious wild berry turnovers. The cash-only food truck Captain Matt’s Fish and Chips serves some of the best fish tacos made with fried Lake Superior whitefish, which you can enjoy with a beer at Brickside Brewery next door. For an upscale dinner, try Harbor Haus, where local fish, vegetables, and berries are prepared with a German and Austrian flair, or Fitzgerald’s, where you can savor hardwood-smoked brisket or pulled pork indoors or grab a smash burger to enjoy on their lakeside deck.

Houghton and Hancock are the largest cities in the Keweenaw, boasting strong Finnish heritage. Kaleva Cafe in Hancock is famous for its Finnish pannukakku pancakes, especially on Saturdays. The Ambassador is a local favorite for excellent pizza and large fishbowl cocktails served in reusable copper mugs. Roy’s Pasties & Bakery offers unconventional pasty flavors, like turkey with cranberry or pizza, along with vegan options — just don’t mention it to the purists. Don’t forget to check out the taproom at Keweenaw Brewing Company, the UP’s largest brewery, where a pint will only cost you $3.

Sault Ste. Marie: Michigan’s oldest city, pronounced “Soo Saint Marie,” lies at the junction between the Upper Peninsula and Ontario, Canada, and is home to the Soo Locks, which connect Lake Superior to the St. Marys River. For a taste of local flavor, visit Goetz’s Lockview Restaurant, a diner classic since the 1960s, known for its fried whitefish. Don’t let rumors of hauntings deter you from the Antlers, where you can indulge in hearty burgers and other American favorites. For a modern twist, check out the Wicked Sister, a bar and restaurant featuring catchy dishes like the “4% Club” salads or their gluten-free Smother in Law sandwich.

Escanaba: After exploring a local winery—such as Leigh’s Garden Winery for seasonal wines with a unique UP twist or Northern Sun Winery for delightful fruit wines—don’t miss the chance to line up at the Swedish Pantry for their famous Swedish pancakes topped with lingonberries. For a refreshing treat, grab a soft serve at Jim’s Dari Kreme, especially the blue moon flavor, a mysterious Michigan classic that combines citrusy vanilla with almond notes. For a more refined meal, head to the Stonehouse, where standout options include the Great Lakes platter featuring fresh local fish and duck served with wild rice.

Paradise: In a nod to the UP’s logging heritage, Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub resembles a classic logging camp, with the head brewmaster being the granddaughter of the original founder. After enjoying a few drinks, treat yourself to fried local whitefish at Brown Fisheries Fish House.

Elsewhere around the peninsula: If you’re traveling along Route 41, stop at the Hilltop in L’Anse for colossal cinnamon rolls that weigh over a pound each. Hardwood Steakhouse in Covington is known for its excellent steaks, and you might even spot a moose while dining. Moofinfries in Naubinway offers a range of options, including burgers, fish, and fries, sure to satisfy everyone in your group. Aspiring chefs at Les Cheneaux Culinary School in Hessel forage for local ingredients to create special dinners for New Year’s and during the summer. Meanwhile, Riverside Pizzeria in Iron River is renowned for its delicious cracker-crust pizzas. Originally a hot dog and hot chocolate stand in the ’60s, Up North Lodge in Gwinn is now “almost world famous” for its signature barbecue.

Where to stock up

During the summer months, you'll discover numerous small farmers' markets and pop-up roadside stands scattered across the UP. Among the fresh wild berries, don't miss the renowned thimbleberry, which resembles a raspberry but offers a much richer flavor. For the most unique thimbleberry jam, visit the Jampot near Eagle River, run by the monks of the Poorrock Abbey, a Byzantine Catholic monastery nestled in the tranquil woods.

Another essential to seek out is Michigan maple syrup, typically crafted by small, family-run operations. Mackinac Bluffs Maple Farms in the eastern UP has been producing all-natural organic syrup since 2011 using sustainable methods in their sugarbush. Keep an eye out for other local brands like Danielson’s, Jasper’s, and Willis Family Maple.

Chaga mushrooms also stand out as a local specialty. These fungi grow on birch trees and have a long history of use in traditional medicine. Stock up at Superior Chaga and UP Chaga Connection for your pantry or medicine cabinet.

Where to stay

The Milkweed Inn

The Milkweed Inn, conceived by chef Iliana Regan, former chef and owner of the Michelin-starred Elizabeth in Chicago, along with her partner Anna Hamlin, offers a unique lodging experience. Guests can choose from a mix of rustic glamping tents and cabins, with all meals centered on local, foraged ingredients. While a weekend stay comes with a hefty price, those eager to secure a reservation must keep a close eye on the inn’s Instagram for updates, as it’s fully booked through 2022 and summer 2023. Rates begin at $2,000 for a weekend stay, making it the hottest spot in town.

The Vault

Located in Houghton, The Vault is a boutique hotel set in the former Houghton National Bank, which dates back to 1887 yet offers completely modern amenities. After settling into your room, venture down to the basement counting room to discover the Speakeasy, featuring an enticing craft cocktail menu. Room rates start at $220 per night.

Keweenaw Mountain Lodge

Originally constructed as a WPA worksite during the Great Depression, the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge was beautifully restored in 2018. The property boasts 24 private cabins with one, two, or three bedrooms, all scattered throughout the grounds. The main lodge acts as the hub, housing the on-site restaurant that embraces a slow-dining philosophy with rustic dishes, largely sourced from the local area. Cabin rates begin at $190 per night.

Paddler’s Village

For nature enthusiasts looking for a more laid-back experience, consider reserving a yurt at Paddler’s Village in Munising. This modern campground features a cozy restaurant serving hot dogs and pizza. For a genuine UP outdoor adventure, prepare a special meal at your campsite. Tent rates start at $150, while yurts accommodating five guests begin at $195.

Amanda Ponzio Mouttaki is a freelance writer and blogger who grew up in the UP and now resides in Marrakech, Morocco. She enjoys traveling the globe to discover delicious local cuisine and will always accept a meal prepared by a grandmother.