A Family Getaway in Pembrokeshire: My Expenses for a Coastal Escape in Wales

In our A Total Trip series, writers share their spending experiences from recent vacations. This edition features Kerry Walker, a Dinogo Planet guidebook author, detailing the costs of a family coastal getaway in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

While Cornwall often steals the spotlight for Britain’s coastal destinations, Pembrokeshire is equally breathtaking. Facing the Atlantic and the unpredictable Welsh weather, this stunning corner of southwest Wales has been my personal retreat since I relocated to Mid Wales eight years ago. This region is truly remarkable: charming seaside villages reminiscent of Enid Blyton stories, sweeping golden beaches nestled among ancient cliffs, tumultuous seas, and hidden coves that feel perfect for a shipwreck adventure. The local culinary scene is also flourishing, with chefs creatively using ingredients sourced from farms, fisheries, and foraging in the area.

My partner, our three-year-old daughter, and I embarked on a long weekend trip in late July. We aimed to explore Skomer Island (famous for its puffins) and the beautiful beaches, while also indulging in some of the finest seafood restaurants.

Pre-trip Expenses

Accommodation: £170 for a two-night stay in a king-size ensuite cottage at Monk Haven Manor, including breakfast. Additionally, £390 for one night in a double ocean garden view room at St Brides Spa Hotel in Saundersfoot, which also includes breakfast.

Pre-booked tickets for Skomer Island: £110 (covering two adults and one child).

Total: £670

On the ground

Friday

Arrival: On our way to Monk Haven, we take a delightful detour to the charming seaside village of Little Haven to check out lobsters and grab a couple of tasty crab sandwiches (£15) from Lobster and Môr for a relaxing beach picnic. Our B&B is a fantastic find, surrounded by lush gardens woven with streams, featuring palm trees, figs, apple trees, and bamboo. The room, once an apple store, is a rustic paradise with a log-burning stove and a lilac-scented garden that includes a hot tub and barbecue. The upstairs double room provides ample privacy while our daughter sleeps on the sofa below.

Activities: The ivy-covered manor is just a short stroll through fern-filled woods to Monk Haven beach, where we enjoy splashing in the rock pools before hiking over gorse-covered cliffs for 1½ miles to the stunning Lindsway Bay, a magnificent stretch of golden sand accessed via steep steps and a boulder scramble. It rivals any beach in Britain, and we’re lucky to find it nearly deserted with the sun making an appearance.

Dinner: Nearby Dale, a charming seaside village, still has fishermen bringing in their daily catch, creating a breezy atmosphere that makes you want to relocate to the coast. The culinary experience at The Griffin enhances this sentiment. This whitewashed pub has been a community staple for 300 years, led by chef Simon Vickers and front-of-house Sian Mathias, who left their careers in architecture and marketing to focus on seafood. Daily, the freshest fish from Pembrokeshire is featured prominently on their counter.

Though it was busy, they managed to seat us at a table overlooking the bay. The seafood is the highlight here, and we start with plump, creamy scallops accompanied by samphire, followed by a beautifully cooked cod loin in a flavorful broth. My daughter enjoys incredibly fresh fish and chips, rounded off with chocolate brownie and ice cream. The total for our meal, which included a local Cwrw Haf ale, a generous glass of pinot grigio rosé, and an apple juice, comes to £145.20, plus a 12.5% service charge of £18.15. While it’s not the cheapest, the quality justifies the price.

Total: £175.35

Saturday

Breakfast: Our day begins with an early meal (included in our stay) at Monk Haven Manor, featuring fresh fruit, toast topped with homemade preserves, and made-to-order dishes using produce from the garden, including a perfect full Welsh breakfast and a fish special.

Activities: We stop by a local minimarket for picnic supplies and drinks, costing £14.50, before heading to the jetty at Martin's Haven for a 10:30 am boat to Skomer Island, which incurs a £6 parking fee (cash only). After picking up our tickets at the gift shop, we spend £6.80 on an island guide, a puffin magnet, and some chocolate. The bumpy boat ride lasts just 15 minutes.

Even the persistent drizzle fails to dampen our excitement on this enchanting island, home to 42,513 puffins, making it one of the UK's largest colonies. While not everyone appreciates Welsh rain, the puffins certainly do— their numbers are increasing. The visit is worth every penny. During our wet trek to The Wick, we get remarkably close to puffins as they chat, groan, and deliver sand eels to their fluffy chicks, soaring like toys off the rugged cliffs. We enjoy our picnic in a bird hide, observing gulls and kittiwakes.

Dinner: We dine at the Saint Brides Inn in Little Haven, a charming establishment adorned in white and blue, boasting exposed stone, a friendly atmosphere, and a collection of nautical decorations. After braving the rain, we feel justified in indulging. Artisan breads with olives lead into a shared starter of calamari, king prawns, and cod bites served with a chili dipping sauce. For mains, we choose two seabass dishes paired with buttered new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, plus fishcakes for my daughter, rounded off with two ice creams and a sticky toffee pudding. With a local ale, a glass of rosé, and an apple juice, the total comes to £89.75, with a £10 tip bringing the final total to £99.75.

Total: £127.05

Sunday

Lunch: After a morning spent in Monk Haven, we head east to the bustling town of Saundersfoot nestled in its namesake bay. We manage to grab an outdoor table at the popular Stone Crab, a quirky little shack by the harbor. The weather cooperates for our alfresco lunch, starting with rustic bread, olives, and aioli, followed by an incredible seafood sharing platter for two, featuring grilled scallops, garlic king prawns, sweet chili calamari, smoked mackerel pâté, and a bottomless bowl of white wine-steamed mussels. With two sparkling rhubarb drinks and a local beer, the total comes to a reasonable £52.

Check-in: After some time at the beach, we check into the St Brides Spa Hotel perched on a cliff. Our spacious room, decorated in refreshing blues, offers a sea view from the balcony. Plus, our overnight stay includes a free 90-minute spa session. A sauna and a soak in the hydrotherapy infinity pool overlooking the bay are perfect pre-dinner treats.

Dinner: Perched above the bay, the glass-walled The Cliff restaurant offers stunning views of the coastline as it transitions into moody evening hues. It creates a captivating setting for our candlelit dinner. We order an Aber Falls gin and tonic, a glass of pinot grigio, and a large bottle of sparkling water, starting with two delicious seared scallops with roasted cauliflower, capers, and raisin purée. I share a pea, mint, and Welsh feta risotto with my daughter while my partner enjoys an aged fillet steak accompanied by short rib, mushroom tart, and green peppercorn. Both meals are outstanding. After two glasses of Malbec, one shared sorbet, and a pineapple pavlova, the bill totals £149.05.

Total: £201.05

The final tally

Total expenditure: on-the-ground costs (£503.45) + accommodation (£560) + Skomer Island tickets (£110) = £1173.45 (US $1493.43)

Notes

Peak-season rates for stays and dining took a significant bite out of the budget. We chose a B&B for the first two nights, followed by a luxurious hotel with a spa for the last night. While we indulged a bit, I felt our money stretched further in Pembrokeshire compared to Cornwall. Most activities, aside from our day trip to Skomer, were free—whether lounging on secluded beaches, walking along the stunning 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, swimming in the ocean, or stargazing at night.