A forest flourishes in the world’s hottest sea

An intensely saline sea that reaches scorching temperatures in the peak of summer presents a hostile environment for most plant life to endure.

However, in a secluded corner of Abu Dhabi, where salty waters meet sunbaked shores, a forest not only survives but thrives – providing a sanctuary for wildlife and an incredibly peaceful escape from the UAE’s arid deserts and bustling cities.

Jubail Mangrove Park is a lush expanse of gray mangrove trees situated on the northeastern edge of Abu Dhabi’s Al Jubail Island, where shallow tidal channels merge with the pristine blue waters of the Arabian Sea.

Opened just before the pandemic as a tourist destination, the park now boasts an elegant wooden reception center and a network of inviting boardwalks that weave through the trees and across the water, offering visitors intimate views of the park’s diverse flora and fauna.

It’s a serene escape from the glimmering skyscrapers and the heat-fueled buzz of downtown Abu Dhabi, though only a short drive away. Visitors can lose themselves for hours here, immersed in the sounds of birdsong, the splash of jumping fish, and the gentle lapping of waves.

“Being here is a healing experience, like yoga, especially during sunrise or sunset,” shares Dickson Dulawen, an experienced guide who leads kayak and electric boat tours of the mangroves when the rising tides allow small boats to enter the heart of the forest.

“If you’ve had a rough day, this is the perfect place to unwind.”

The restorative powers of the mangroves aren’t limited to humans. Scientists believe these resilient trees are also playing a vital role in healing the planet, capturing and storing carbon dioxide, fostering biodiversity, and staying ahead of climate change.

A dreamlike retreat

The best way to experience the magic of the mangroves is from the water, gliding along with guides like Dulawen in one of Jubail’s vibrant kayaks. Tours run throughout the day, and occasionally at night, depending on the tides.

Leading the way through a man-made channel, Dulawen highlights the swarms of tiny black crabs scurrying along the sandy bottoms at the base of the mangroves.

The plants and crabs have a mutually beneficial relationship, he explains. The crabs feed on fallen leaves and seek refuge in the branches, while also dispersing seeds and breaking up the dense, salty sediment to aid root growth.

The roots are a remarkable sight. Gray mangroves send out a star-shaped network of anchor roots, which grow into a mini-forest of tube-like structures called pneumatophores, poking above the water like snorkels, enabling the plant to breathe.

Pulling the kayaks onto a pristine sandy beach, which only appears at low tide – a perfect desert island – Dulawen invites a closer look at the mangrove leaves, which seem to sweat salt. This is part of the process that enables them to thrive in seawater that would be lethal to most other plants.

Dulawen points out other plants that make up the local ecosystem. There's the green, stubby salt marsh samphire, similar to the plant commonly used in cooking. He mentions that local Bedouins have traditionally used it as medicine to treat gassy camels or horses.

A yellow flower blooming from the samphire’s roots is a desert hyacinth, a parasitic plant often harvested for medicinal purposes, including, according to Dulawen, as a natural alternative to Viagra.

Under the harsh heat of an Arabian summer afternoon, one might expect the mangroves to feel unbearable. Yet, with warm, bathtub-like waves gently splashing over the kayaks as Dulawen points out various plants and creatures, a surreal, dreamlike atmosphere lingers in the air.

Crab plovers and green herons flutter through the trees, landing to hunt across the soft, muddy floor. In the crystal-clear water, upside-down jellyfish drift above the swaying seagrass. Dulawen mentions that turtles often visit the area.

Nature’s engineers

The tranquility of this part of Abu Dhabi is partly due to its restriction from jet skis and pleasure boats that zip around other parts of the coastline. Dulawen and his team of guides contribute by diligently collecting stray trash and ensuring unwanted visitors are kept away.

“There’s no place like this in the UAE,” he says with pride. “The water’s clarity, the natural wildlife – it’s simply perfect.”

And it keeps improving. Both government and private sector planting initiatives have led to the growth of mangrove areas in recent years, not only at Jubail but also at Abu Dhabi’s Eastern Mangrove Park. For every tree lost to development, three more are planted.

This is a success story for the environment, says John Burt, associate professor of biology at New York University Abu Dhabi. He’s occasionally spotted paddleboarding around the emirate’s waters as part of his team’s research to map the genetic data of gray mangroves.

He refers to mangroves as “ecosystem engineers,” which not only shape their own habitats but also create the ideal environment for countless other species.

“They’re a hotspot for biodiversity,” he explains. Crabs thrive thanks to their partnership with the mangroves. Fish prosper due to the abundance of food to nourish their young. Fishers benefit because those young fish grow into commercially valuable catches in deeper waters.

And the birds thrive too.

“These mangroves lie along a migration route for many bird species traveling between Africa and Eurasia,” says Burt. “During the fall, we’ll see large numbers of birds stop to rest and feed here because it’s vital not only as a habitat, but also as a crucial source of energy in the food web through the dropping of leaves.”

There’s another critical aspect. In today’s climate-changed world, Abu Dhabi’s exceptionally resilient mangroves might hold the key to understanding how ecosystems across the planet will adapt to global warming and rising sea levels, as well as help mitigate some of the causes.

They serve as a “blue carbon sink,” a marine ecosystem that absorbs more carbon than it releases, says Burt.

“They’re absorbing CO2 from the atmosphere through photosynthesis, and much of that energy is directed into the root system,” he explains. “And when the mangroves die, all the CO2 they’ve pulled out of the air remains stored in the soil.”

“As long as the area remains undisturbed by development, it serves as CO2 sequestration. It has the potential to offset some of the carbon emissions we generate through fossil fuel consumption.”

‘So much green’

The professor notes that because Abu Dhabi’s gray mangroves thrive in the unusually salty waters of desert coastal lagoons – which, in winter, can be too cool for most typically tropical species – they may offer insights into how other species around the world could adapt and survive in changing conditions.

His team is studying specific genes in the local plants linked to “environmental resilience,” including their ability to withstand salt and extreme temperatures, both hot and cold.

“I believe this information will be valuable when examining places like Indonesia or Thailand, and considering how they might adapt to climate change,” he explains.

Mangroves elsewhere in the world may possess the same resilient genes as those in Abu Dhabi, just waiting for the right environmental conditions to activate them. Observing these genes in action here could offer hope for future adaptation.

“It shows us that there is hope for ecosystems like this,” says Burt.

Back on solid ground with Dulawen, there’s time for a leisurely walk along the Jubail boardwalks as the sun sets in an orange glow. It’s another tranquil moment, enhanced by a viewing tower offering sweeping views of the dense, leafy canopy.

In the serene coolness of the evening, a few couples and families are taking in the views, including visitor Balaji Krisna.

“If you’re looking to connect with nature, this is a great spot, and it’s not far from the city,” he says. “It’s the only place in Abu Dhabi where you can experience so much greenery.”