A Guide to Roman Cuisine
Today's distinctly Roman cuisine is the culmination of thousands of years of diverse influences, blending pastoral traditions from the countryside with the rich heritage of Rome’s ancient Jewish community. Despite the city’s cycles of extravagance and austerity, Rome offers one of the world’s great populist cuisines: modest and affordable, focusing on simple techniques to showcase seasonal and local ingredients.
However, this simplicity doesn’t equate to blandness—Roman cuisine is known for its bold flavors. Traditional dishes are often rich in black pepper, sharp pecorino, bitter greens, and a generous use of offal. The American fascination with Roman food isn’t due to changes in the cuisine itself but a growing American appreciation for nose-to-tail eating and hearty vegetables. (While dishes like Florentine steak and caprese were more accessible, offal and artichokes took longer to catch on.)
Classics remain popular for a reason. Many Romans still enjoy fried artichokes, cacio e pepe, and tripe on Saturday nights, not out of necessity, but because these dishes are beloved. Curious about experiencing Roman dining? Here’s an introduction to la cucina romana.
Understanding Restaurant Varieties
When dining out in Rome outside of pizza places, you’re likely to find yourself at an osteria, trattoria, or ristorante. Traditionally, an osteria was a tavern for drinking where you brought your own food, while a trattoria was a casual spot for a quick, inexpensive lunch. Nowadays, both offer affordable Roman cuisine, house wine by the carafe, and a relaxed, homey vibe. Some family-run establishments continue to follow classic traditions, such as the weekly specials: “Thursday gnocchi, Friday baccala, Saturday tripe.” In older spots like Pippo Lo Sgobbone in Flaminio, the owner will often recite the day’s menu while pointing to the mostra, the glass case showcasing everything from roasted pears to whole salamis.
A ristorante usually offers a more refined dining experience with a higher price tag and dishes that may stray from traditional Roman fare. Nevertheless, in Rome, you can still enjoy a meal at places like Roberto e Loretta, where you might savor truffle-topped mozzarella and pasta with a rich hunter’s ragu, all served by Roberto and Loretta themselves, who often engage in conversation while you dine.
Pastas carbonara (left) and cacio e pepe Meghan McCarronHow to Navigate the Multi-Course Meal
In Rome, a traditional meal is divided into five courses. It starts with a simple antipasto, featuring cured meats and a variety of fried or marinated vegetables. This is followed by primo, the starch course, which often includes one of the classic Roman pastas (see below). Next is secondo, a meat dish like stewed or roasted meat, or fish such as baccala, accompanied by contorni (side dishes) like sautéed greens or roasted potatoes. Dessert, or dolce, could be anything from tiramisu to a slice of pineapple. The meal concludes with coffee and a digestif, such as grappa, limoncello, or amaro.
Remember, the five-course meal is more of an upper limit rather than a must-follow rule—you’re not required to order every course, and it’s perfectly fine to share main dishes. Romans might enjoy leisurely three-hour dinners at a trattoria, savoring each course and chatting late into the evening over the last sips of wine. Alternatively, a quick lunch at a trattoria could involve a simple artichoke and a plate of fettuccine with tomato sauce, allowing you to be in and out within 45 minutes.
What to Try
Pizza — Clearly
Roman pizza, a staple in the city, differs significantly from the renowned Neapolitan variety and comes in two types: al taglio (by the slice) and tonda (round).
Pizza al taglio is typically enjoyed as a lunch or snack. In this context, “pizza” refers to a type of flat, crisp, and sturdy bread. Pizza bianca is simply topped with oil and salt and is often split and filled with mortadella to make a sandwich. Popular toppings include potatoes, classic margherita, sausage with mushrooms, or just plain tomato.
No matter the toppings, the process remains consistent. Long pizzas, either rectangular and baked in sheet pans (in teglia) or oblong (alla pala), are displayed behind the counter with a price per kilo. An employee cuts slices using a knife or scissors, weighs them, reheats them in a small oven, and serves them on a cardboard plate or wrapped in wax paper.
Pizza tonda, or round pizzas, are thin and crispy, contrasting with the thicker, chewier Neapolitan style, and are typically served at sit-down pizzerie for dinner. Baked in a wood-fired oven, they can be topped with anything from classic margherita to squash blossoms, mozzarella, and anchovies, and are perfectly complemented by a cold beer.
Pizza al taglio at Pommidoro Nadia Shira CohenTop Spots for Delicious Pizza:
Al Taglio: Angelo e Simonetta, Via Nomentana, 581, 00141 Rome
Prelibato Panificio Con Cucina, Viale di Villa Pamphili, 214/216, 00152 Rome
Tonda: Pizzeria Ostiense, Via Ostiense, 56, 00154 Rome
Pizzeria Ai Marmi, Viale di Trastevere, 53, 00153 Rome
Want more? Check out our comprehensive Roman Pizza Map for all the details.
The Four Essential Pastas
While many Italian cities are known for one or two signature pasta dishes, Rome boasts four iconic ones: cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper), carbonara (cheese, cured pork cheek, and egg), gricia (cured pork cheek and cheese), and amatriciana (cured pork cheek, cheese, and tomato). These dishes highlight Rome’s famous pecorino Romano cheese, with three of them also featuring guanciale, which adds both crispy meat chunks and rich, savory fat. Besides these staples, Romans enjoy pasta with chickpeas on Fridays and gnocchi on Thursdays with either tomato or amatriciana sauce. However, these four are the quintessential classics.
Top Spots for Authentic Roman Pasta:
Da Cesare al Casaletto, Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Rome
Tavernaccia Da Bruno, Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63, 00153 Rome
Agustarello a Testaccio, Via Giovanni Branca, 100, 00153 Rome
For an in-depth guide to Roman pasta, see our Pasta Lovers’ Guide to Rome.
Fried and Bitter Vegetables
Artichokes
From December to April, artichokes dominate Roman menus. These iconic vegetables, believed to be foraged locally since ancient times and popularized by 15th-century Jewish immigrants from Spain and Southern Italy, are prepared mainly in two ways: simmered with mint and garlic (alla romana) or fried (alla giudia). Artichokes also feature in the springtime stew known as vignarola, combined with favas, peas, romaine, guanciale, and pecorino cheese.
Bitter Greens
In Rome, bitter vegetables are highly prized. Cicoria ripassata, a trattoria staple, consists of green chicory boiled until tender, then sautéed with oil, garlic, and chili flakes. During their brief winter season, puntarelle are eagerly anticipated. The tough outer leaves are removed to reveal tender shoots, which are sliced thin, soaked in acidic water to curl, and dressed with a zesty mix of olive oil, garlic, vinegar, and anchovies.
Fried Delights
In Rome, frying is an art form. From meatballs and fish to an array of vegetables, the Romans fry it all. At pizzerias, a platter of fried treats often includes fiori di zucca (squash blossoms stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies) and fritto misto vegetale (a medley of vegetables like carrots and romanesco). Fried dishes are popular in Jewish restaurants due to their kosher preparation, including the famed fried artichoke and concia, zucchini rounds fried in olive oil and marinated in vinegar, garlic, and herbs.
Among the most beloved fried snacks is supplì, a crispy rice ball originally filled with a rich chicken liver ragu but now typically stuffed with mozzarella and tomato. These are sometimes called supplì al telefono because the melted cheese stretches into a long string, resembling the cord of a vintage telephone when pulled apart.
Top Spots for Roman Vegetables: Armando al Pantheon, Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 RomePiatto Romano, Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62, 00153 RomeMeAT, Via Portuense, 465, 00149 Rome
Fried anchovies Nadia Shira CohenOffal and Other Meaty Delicacies
In Rome, offal is known as quinto quarto or 'fifth quarter,' referring to the roughly quarter of an animal that consists of less desirable cuts. Historically, these parts were consumed out of necessity, but today they are celebrated delicacies. Romans use every part of the animal in their cooking, from tripe stewed with tomatoes and mint to lamb pluck with artichokes and chicken giblets in a rich ragu. Before the advent of olive oil, lard was the primary cooking fat.
Pajata
Pajata refers to the intestines of an unweaned calf still containing partially digested milk, akin to a sausage casing filled with ricotta. While some Roman Mytouries grill it, it is most commonly simmered in tomato sauce and served with rigatoni and pecorino. Despite its unusual nature, many Romans adore pajata — if you want to try it, visit the butcher early on a Saturday as it sells out quickly.
Coda alla Vaccinara
Almost every trattoria in Rome serves this classic comfort dish. Known as 'oxtail, tanner style,' this recipe dates back to 17th century leatherworkers in the city center. Oxtails are braised for hours in a rich tomato sauce with whole celery ribs and tomatoes, and often enhanced with pine nuts, raisins, or even chocolate. The resulting sugo is typically used to coat pasta like rigatoni or gnocchi, with the braised meat served as a separate course after the pasta.
Lamb
Rome takes pride in its lamb. Abbacchio romanesco refers to a young lamb, slaughtered before reaching 7 kilos (about 15 pounds), resulting in tender, sweet meat. It is commonly prepared allo scottadito (grilled chops meant to be picked up by hand), al forno (roasted with potatoes), or alla cacciatora (braised with garlic, wine, and anchovies). Eating abbacchio on Easter is as traditional as turkey on Thanksgiving.
Slow-Cooked Meats
In Rome, meats are often slow-cooked to perfection, resulting in flavorful, sauce-rich dishes that pair well with roasted potatoes. Popular options include pollo con i peperoni (chicken braised with bell peppers), bollito alla picchiapo (boiled beef in a spicy onion-tomato sauce), and sometimes roasted petto di vitella (veal breast). These are hearty one-pot meals designed for communal dining.
Top Spots for Roman Meat: La Tavernaccia, Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63, 00153 RomeOsteria Bonelli, Viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino, 172/174, 00176 Rome Lo’steria, Via dei Prati della Farnesina, 61, 00135 Rome
Pastries
Though not as renowned for pastries as Naples or Palermo, Rome has its own beloved sweet treats, typically enjoyed at breakfast. During Carnevale, bignè di San Giuseppe make their seasonal debut — delicious fried choux dough filled with custard, perfect before the Lenten fast. December 2, 2017 was officially named “Maritozzo Day” in Rome, celebrating the round, egg-rich pastries packed with an excessive amount of whipped cream.
Top Places for Pastries: Pasticceria Regoli, Via dello Statuto, 60, 00185 RomeLinari, Via Nicola Zabaglia, 9, 00153 RomeRoscioli Caffè, Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16, 00186 Rome
Pastries from Pasticceria Regoli Lesley Suter/For DinogoGiancarlo Buonomo is a freelance journalist based in Rome, covering its culinary delights, culture, and historical narratives.
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