Architectural Marvels of Cuenca and Toledo

The historic towns of Cuenca and Toledo, easily accessible from Madrid, are home to some of Spain's most impressive architectural treasures dating back centuries.

Toledo enchants with its maze of cobblestone streets, the majestic Alcazar fortress, and an array of Renaissance and Gothic churches, alongside Moorish mosques and synagogues that reflect its rich history. Cuenca, dramatically nestled between the deep gorges of the Huécar and Júcar rivers, is surrounded by picturesque mountains. Known for its captivating blend of Gothic, Baroque, and medieval styles, it features the famous casas colgadas—houses that precariously hang over the gorge.

Join us for a walking tour of these treasures in Castilla La Mancha. For the best experience, consider visiting on a weekday and staying overnight to enjoy the sites without the crowds.

Cuenca

Cuenca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is filled with captivating medieval architecture nestled within the winding, narrow casco histórico (historic city center) perched on a steep cliff, flanked by river gorges. Start your visit at Plaza Mayor, dominated by the Baroque arches of the ayuntamiento (town hall) and the seemingly ancient, neo-Gothic cathedral, which was built on the site of an 11th-century mosque, with its current form dating back to 1902. Don't miss its stunning Renaissance doorway, abstract stained-glass windows, and the elaborate artesanado (wooden) ceiling in the chapter house.

Head along the dog-leg Calle Canónigos to Cuenca’s most renowned landmark: the gabled casas colgadas (hanging houses) from the 14th century, which dramatically extend over the Río Huécar gorge. Continue down to the Puente de San Pablo footbridge for the best views of these remarkable houses that appear to grow from the rock, resembling organic extensions of the cliff, then return to your starting point.

One of the casas colgadas hosts Cuenca's artistic gem – the Museo de Arte Abstracto, established in the 1960s, featuring airy galleries that showcase a remarkable collection of ethereal abstract works by Fernando Zóbel (the museum’s founder), along with thought-provoking pieces from Basque artists Jorge Oteiza, Eduardo Chillida, and Néstor Basterretxea, as well as mixed-media paintings by Catalan master Antoni Tàpies.

From Plaza Mayor, head north on Calle San Pedro to reach the Iglesia de San Pedro, the oldest church in Cuenca, although its current structure dates back to the 18th century. Key features include its striking Baroque façade, a coffered Mudéjar ceiling in one of the chapels, and the chance to climb the tall belltower (formerly a minaret) for breathtaking views of Cuenca. Adjacent to it is the intricate 17th-century Carmelite convent, home to the Fundación Antonio Pérez, a large modern art gallery showcasing works from notable 1950s and '60s artists like Antonio Saura, Manolo Millares, and Lucebert.

A short walk further north reveals sweeping views of the surrounding landscape from the remnants of the Castillo de Cuenca. Continuing five minutes past the castle, you’ll find the Mirador de la Hoz, where you can access the 2.5-mile-long Sendero Periferico de las Hoces de Cuenca and follow it along a stunningly scenic path through both river gorges.

Toledo

Set on a rocky promontory overlooking the Río Tajo gorge, the ‘city of three cultures’ is a breathtaking sight, with every inch adorned by churches, horseshoe-arched mosques, Sephardic synagogues, and traditional homes.

Throughout its long history, Toledo has been a haven for Christian, Muslim, and Jewish communities, where Moorish artisans contributed to some of the city's most exquisite buildings, and influential Jews held key positions in the royal court. This era of prosperity for Toledo as the capital of Castile ended in the 16th century, following the Inquisition's sweeping expulsion of Jews and Moors. Toledo is also renowned for the haunting works of El Greco, the Old Master, whose masterpieces are displayed in many of the city’s churches.

Start your Toledo adventure on the east side at the Plaza de Zocodover – the vibrant heart of the city, where locals once gathered to witness the Inquisition’s public burnings and matadors showcasing their skills in thrilling bullfights. Ascend from the plaza to the Alcazar, the city's highest point. Initially a 10th-century fortress, it was transformed into a royal residence for Carlos I, reconstructed by Carlos V in the 16th century, and heavily damaged by loyalist forces during the Spanish Civil War.

From the Alcazar, venture west through the maze of medieval streets, passing the ruins of the 11th-century Mezquita de las Tornerías on its namesake road. Then head south to the Catedral de Toledo, a stunning masterpiece of medieval Gothic architecture that took nearly 250 years (1227-1493) to finish. Inside, you'll marvel at the blend of architectural styles: Gothic ribbed vaults and pointed arches, the chapter house with its remarkable 500-year-old Mudéjar wooden ceiling, the opulent Gothic altarpiece of the Capilla Mayor with the extravagant Churrigueresque Transparente behind it, and the sacristy, which features a magnificent ceiling fresco and artworks by El Greco, Zurbarán, Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael, and Velázquez.

Just two blocks northwest of the cathedral stands the 18th-century Iglesia de los Jesuitas, featuring a striking Baroque façade; ascend the bell tower for breathtaking views of Toledo.

Walk along Calle de Alfonso XII to reach the Iglesia de Santo Tomé, home to El Greco’s renowned painting, El entierro del conde de Orgaz (The Burial of the Count of Orgaz), accessible via Plaza del Conde. This masterpiece illustrates the count’s funeral in 1322, attended by Sts Augustine and Stephen, alongside El Greco himself, his son, and Cervantes.

Continuing downhill on Calle de San Juan de Dios leads to Toledo's judería (old Jewish quarter). On Paseo del Tránsito, you’ll discover the Sinagoga del Tránsito, constructed in 1355 by Samuel Levi, treasurer to Pedro I (Pedro the Cruel). Inside, the prayer hall features filigree windows and an intricately carved pine ceiling, housing the Museo Sefardí, which offers insights into Sephardic Jewish culture in Spain.

A block west of the Sinagoga del Tránsito lies Toledo’s other surviving synagogue from the ten that once populated the judería, and one of the few remaining synagogues in Spain post-1492 expulsion. Built by Mudéjar craftsmen, the Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca resembles a mosque, with four rows of pillars supporting horseshoe arches adorned with intricate stuccowork, and its vibrant deep-red floors enhanced by decorative ajulejos (tiles).

Continue along Calle de los Reyes Católicos to the stunning Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes, a Franciscan convent established by Ferdinand and Isabella, known for its Gothic Hispano-Flemish design. Its highlight is the two-story cloister adorned with an intricate Mudéjar ceiling and the crests of Castille and Aragón, symbolizing the union of the royal couple.

Finally, stroll along Calle Real next to the medieval wall, then ascend Subida Granja to conclude your journey at the Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, a small 11th-century mosque—the last of Toledo's original ten. It has undergone conversion into a church, yet retains its original Mudéjar arches and vaulting.

A fresh viewpoint: Illumination

In recent years, stunning illumination shows have emerged globally, allowing you to experience the architectural splendor of Toledo and Cuenca in an exciting new light. These enchanting displays enhance the vibrancy of the Catedral de Toledo and the Iglesia de San Miguel in Cuenca, merging light, color, sound, and creativity to push the limits of architectural aesthetics.

The shows, Luz Cuenca and Lumina Catedral de Toledo, infuse life into the historic interiors, revealing intricate details and hidden layers. These 45-50 minute nighttime experiences feature both 2D and 3D animations that immerse you in a realm where architecture defies conventional boundaries and comes alive. You’ll engage with the history and heritage of these iconic structures in a way that will stay with you forever.