A hidden gem serving some of Turkey’s most innovative cuisine

Located just off the D515 highway to Kuşadası, a winding road leads through pine forests and rolling olive groves of the Mediterranean countryside to the village of Caferli.

Though it’s off the beaten path, it’s here that you’ll find one of Turkey’s most pioneering destination restaurants, where the menu—deeply rooted in the natural landscape—is a far cry from the typical fare you'd expect from a country famed for its rich culinary heritage.

Çiy, a restaurant crafted by chef Damla Uğurtaş, boasts a stunning view of an evergreen valley and the Aegean Sea from its terrace, where diners sit beneath the shade of a sprawling olive tree.

For Uğurtaş, who hails from Izmir, a city on Turkey’s western coast about 60 miles north of here, the remote setting reflects her own unconventional journey—from studying English literature to stepping into the world of fine dining.

“From the very beginning, I envisioned Çiy in a village that embodied the essence of the Aegean, a place where we could truly connect with the spirit of the trees and the sea,” she shares with Dinogo.

After completing her studies at MSA, one of Istanbul's most prestigious culinary schools, Uğurtaş quickly rose through the ranks of the restaurant world, eventually becoming head chef at 7Bilgeler, a famous vineyard in the nearby village of Gökçealan.

However, driven by her desire to open her own restaurant, she took on the challenging task of renovating and expanding a set of traditional buildings in the remote village of Caferli to create her groundbreaking dining space.

A deep connection to nature

Approaching from the main entrance, the restaurant and its attached guesthouse resemble a village within a village. Natural stone buildings and winding paths meander through herb gardens and terraces with sweeping views of the valley below.

The main structure – which houses the restaurant on the ground floor and three rooms on the upper level – is newly constructed, while the three guesthouses on the property are renovated traditional village homes.

Every detail of the interior design has been carefully curated, from the vintage furniture and handwoven carpets in each room to the delicate lace doilies placed on the water glasses.

In this otherwise quiet village, the restaurant is a rare sight. It’s a fine dining destination offering a tasting menu that blends the creativity of its chef with the rich local ingredients of the region.

“Çiy reflects my deep connection to nature,” Uğurtaş explains. “I’d choose a cauliflower that bravely withstood the winter chill over a flavorless pepper grown through artificial means. I tell my producers, ‘I’ll only buy what grows beautifully, organically, and yields well in your soil.’

“Rather than asking my farmers to grow unfamiliar crops, I focus on getting the best, most natural products they already produce. This way, I respect their expertise while allowing them to do what they do best. The region is rich and diverse—working with what’s already here brings me joy,” she adds.

On the plate, Uğurtaş’s dishes embrace simplicity, letting the natural flavors shine through, yet they are elevated by technique and creative exploration, transforming them from simply delicious to truly unforgettable.

“I never envisioned Çiy as a city restaurant, which is why I feel like we’re exactly where we’re meant to be,” she says. “Our proximity to local producers and ingredients is our greatest asset, and since taste is our top priority, it’s also what defines our restaurant.”

Uğurtaş’s savory éclair features powdered shrimp shell in the pastry, filled with a creamy shrimp mixture, and served alongside a cup of refreshing peach kombucha. Her homemade pastas, learned during her training with a renowned Italian chef in Istanbul, are topped with a rich veal ragout or crafted from ancient grains like Kızılca wheat, served with thinly sliced calamari and a sauce made of egg yolk, Bergama Tulum cheese, olive oil, and fermented mussel juice.

Each dish is thoughtfully paired with wines sourced from Turkey’s boutique vineyards, offering a unique taste of the region.

Çiy’s more relaxed lunch service varies throughout the week. On Sundays, guests enjoy brunches with towering croquembouche, delicate puff pastries filled with cream and drizzled with caramel threads. Saturdays are all about the Çiy burger, featuring homemade pickles, peach mustard, ketchup, and a buttery bun. And on Wednesdays, Uğurtaş and her team, who have a passion for making sourdough bread, prepare a signature sourdough pizza.

Nourishment for the soul

Describing her cuisine as “healing Mediterranean food,” Uğurtaş is part of a rising movement in Turkey’s culinary scene that goes beyond just satisfying the taste buds, aiming to nurture the soul as well.

Chefs are leaving city life behind, setting up restaurants in remote locations that reconnect them with nature and the rich regional ingredients of Turkey. Among these trailblazers are Osman Sezener at Od Urla, Ozan Kumbasar at Vino Locale in Urla, Tuncay Gülcü at Chayote, and Serra Beklen at Capra Çukurbağ in Kaş.

“Damla Uğurtaş is charting new territory with her innovative fusion cuisine in a very unexpected location,” says Adnan Kaya, a Hürriyet columnist who specializes in Aegean culture. “This movement represents a new wave in Turkish gastronomy, and Çiy is set to be a key pioneer.”

“We’re all aware that the planet can no longer sustain our growing demands, and this is where chef Uğurtaş’s healing cuisine comes in,” Kaya adds. “She crafts each dish thoughtfully, using authentic regional ingredients, honoring the seasons, and ensuring every member of her team contributes their unique touch.”

“They grow and learn together, becoming more harmonious with each passing day as they collaborate, cook, and share in the joy of the process. This spirit is evident in the flavors they create. If only all restaurants could be like this,” Kaya continues.

Guests who visit Çiy are enveloped in its tranquility, a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Istanbul, Turkey’s culinary epicenter until now.

The restaurant quietly resides in its village, where soft conversations fill the terrace, and the expansive valley around remains still and peaceful. A chilled signature cocktail rests on the bar, enjoyed by guests protected from the elements by the restaurant’s own fragrant mosquito repellent, made from locally sourced herbs.

It’s a captivating scene, one that makes it easy to believe a quiet yet powerful revolution is unfolding within Turkey’s culinary world—a revolution that is deeply connected to, and in harmony with, nature.

Uğurtaş believes that those who make the effort to journey here will find the experience truly rewarding.

“Welcoming guests requires flawless execution from start to finish, and in a remote village, you can’t achieve that with food alone,” Uğurtaş explains.

“That’s why Çiy embraces a holistic way of living. Our philosophy is shaped by the contributions of the village, the region, the people we collaborate with, and our own personal values,” she adds.

“Every detail reflects this philosophy, from the fabrics and colors to the plates and food, the staff and the music, the glasses and the wine list. This is what I cherish most about my restaurant,” says Uğurtaş.

Feride Yalav-Heckeroth is a freelance writer based between Istanbul and Lake Constance, and the author of The 500 Hidden Secrets of Istanbul. Her work has appeared in Kinfolk, Brownbook, The Travel Almanac, Wallpaper*, Travel + Leisure, and Conde Nast Traveler.