A Historical Hike Along Portugal’s Fishermen’s Trail

Traverse the sandy shores, cliffs, and capes from Alentejo to Algarve.

I stand at São Torpes Beach, located in the Alentejo, Portugal, beside the sign that marks the start of the Fishermen’s Trail—a renowned path that forms part of the Rota Vicentina.

In the distance, the skyline is a metallic gray; Sines, the closest town, is one of Portugal’s key maritime ports and home to several major oil companies.

However, this sign indicates a complete transformation in the landscape. Industry will fade into the background, and for 140 miles (226 km), the coastline of Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina will unfold before me, presenting challenges with each step.

If you, like me, have always felt a deep connection to the maritime landscape, this trail will captivate you. It follows the coastline along historic fishermen’s paths and through some of the most picturesque villages along the Portuguese coast.

However, it is definitely a challenge. The Fishermen’s Trail mainly comprises sandy paths with steep inclines, making it physically demanding and completely exposed to the elements—heat, cold, rain, and wind. And it’s all done on foot.

Depending on your fitness level, you can complete the entire trail in 13 days, divided into 13 stages. However, I suggest taking a bit more time to truly appreciate the journey.

Every stop feels like a Portuguese postcard

The initial stretch, from São Torpes to Porto Covo, is the easiest segment of the entire trail. This is fortunate, as I need to maintain my spirits while contemplating the challenge I’ve taken on.

It’s spring – one of the prime seasons to hike the Fishermen’s Trail. The path is lined with wildflowers and fragrant bushes. The chirping of insects is only interrupted by the sound of crashing waves or the occasional gull overhead.

The tranquility begins to settle in; it will be a consistent theme throughout this journey. When accustomed to the clamor of city life and its rapid pace, the mind often finds the silence and stillness somewhat disconcerting.

This serene atmosphere is only interrupted as we approach the villages along the Fishermen’s Trail. Porto Covo is the first stop, boasting whitewashed homes, blue-trimmed walls, and the occasional burst of color from blooming flowers or laundry hung out to dry—a quintessential Portuguese village. Further along, the idyllic Vila Nova de Milfontes stretches along the Mira River, making it a perfect spot for a break.

In Vila Nova de Milfontes, you can bend the rules of your adventure a bit: crossing the river by boat to the next section will save you both kilometers and time. The harbor access is located near Forte de São Clemente, constructed in 1602 to protect the village from pirate raids.

Other charming towns grace the trail to the south: Zambujeira do Mar, known for its vast beach; Odeceixe, home to one of the few remaining operational windmills; and just over the border into the Algarve region, Aljezur, featuring the iconic 10th-century castle perched atop a hill overlooking the village.

From this point, the distinctive chimneys typical of the Algarve become more prevalent atop the whitewashed houses found in locales such as Arrifana or Carrapateira.

Hiking through history

As I navigate the map and traverse various regions of the park, the landscape along the Fishermen’s Trail begins to transform. The once gentle cliffs yield to dramatic scenery that conceals tales from days gone by.

The segment from Aljezur to Arrifana, passing by Monte Clérigo, climbs to higher cliff tops and takes me through the Ribat da Atalaia, the remnants of an ancient Islamic fortress-convent inhabited by monks in the 12th century. Glancing back, I’m struck by the coastline’s outline, the secluded beaches, and the considerable distance I've covered.

This pattern continues from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo, where medieval archaeological sites from the Islamic settlement at Ponta do Castelo can be found, just before reaching Praia do Amado. Archaeologists suggest it served as a fishing observatory in ancient times.

It's no surprise that this path is known as the Fishermen’s Trail. In this rugged Atlantic region, fishing has long been—and will always be—a crucial source of income for the locals. Along the journey, we encounter small fishing ports still actively in use, such as Lapa de Pombas near Almograve and Entrada da Barca by Zambujeira do Mar.

Into the sea

The Fishermen’s Trail also features two significant capes: Cape Sardão on the route to Zambujeira and Cape São Vicente, leading to Sagres. Both are marked by towering lighthouses that alert vessels to the proximity of land.

However, the ambiance in these locations is distinctly different.

As the trail approaches the Cape Sardão lighthouse, it meanders through fragrant bushes, drawing the attention of white storks that have made these tranquil cliffs their nesting grounds. At the lighthouse of Cape São Vicente, the serenity is interrupted by the lively throngs of visitors, cars, tour buses, food trucks, and souvenir vendors—a stark contrast brought on by one of Sagres’ major tourist spots.

The final stretch

For many trekkers, myself included, Sagres signifies the conclusion of the journey along the Fishermen’s Trail. However, the route doesn't end here. To fully complete it, one would need to spend a few more days traversing the southern coast towards Lagos, passing through charming spots like Salema and Luz. The stunning beaches of Barranco, Ingrina, or Zavial along the way make this final push entirely rewarding.

Tips for navigating the Fishermen’s Trail

Best times to visit and starting points

The ideal time to hike the Fishermen’s Trail is from September to June, steering clear of Portugal’s sweltering summer months. You can begin your journey either from the north at São Torpes beach in Sines or from the south at Lagos, close to the train station. Clear signposting is available throughout the trail in both directions.

Accommodation and dining options

The villages along the trail provide various local lodging options for overnight stays, including campsites located in São Torpes, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Zambujeira do Mar, Odeceixe, Aljezur, Sagres, and Salema.

Each village features restaurants and shops for replenishing supplies. Some must-try dishes along the route include the seafood at Porto das Barcas (Vila Nova de Milfontes), delicious pizza at Piccolino (Zambujeira do Mar), breakfast at Ao Largo (Odeceixe), pastries at Pão do Rogil (Rogil), and stuffed squid at Tasca do Careca (Vila do Bispo).

Essential items to pack for your hike

Depending on the season, wear layers to adapt to temperature changes. Walking sticks are beneficial, as is footwear designed for sandy terrain. In winter, a raincoat is advisable, while a hat and sunscreen are essentials year-round.

If using a backpack, ensure it weighs no more than 20% of your body weight and carry plenty of water to stay hydrated.