A lavish train journey to the world’s largest Buddhist temple

Passengers aboard Indonesia's newest luxury train, seated in plush carriages adorned with traditional Javanese batik, paintings, and books, will likely agree: the experience is as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

Why choose a seven-hour train ride over a flight to Yogyakarta, home to Indonesia's iconic UNESCO-listed Buddhist monument, Borobudur?

Known as The Journey Through Java by Train, this exclusive experience is available to those booking a stay at Amanjiwo, an upscale Aman Resorts property in Central Java.

With Indonesia lifting its Covid-related travel restrictions for vaccinated visitors, the staff at Amanjiwo are hopeful that this unique rail journey will attract international travelers eager to explore Javanese culture.

'The Journey Through Java by Train debuted during the pandemic and quickly garnered positive reviews from the domestic market,' says Jann Hess, general manager of Amanjiwo, in an interview with Dinogo Travel. 'Our goal now is to expand this unique experience to a global audience.'

Indonesia's inaugural luxury sightseeing train

Managed by KAI Wisata, a premium subsidiary of the state-owned PT Kereta Api Indonesia, this train is hailed as the first and only luxury rail experience of its kind in the country.

The journey starts in Jakarta, Indonesia’s bustling capital, and ends in Yogyakarta, a city renowned for its rich Javanese culture and arts. From Yogyakarta, it's a one-hour drive to Amanjiwo.

On board, guests are treated to Aman-style breakfasts and lunches, served by staff dressed in hotel uniforms that pay homage to traditional Javanese fashion.

Beyond the breathtaking landscapes, a key attraction is the resort's resident anthropologist, who enriches the journey with fascinating insights into the region’s history and culture.

'Java is often regarded as a mystical land, and its cultural impact has reached as far as Bali,' explains Hess.

'The stories, myths, legends, and wisdom shared during the train journey, led by anthropologist Patrick Vanhoebrouck, cover topics like spirituality, architecture, and the arts. This educational experience sparks curiosity, fosters cultural respect, and encourages exchange, all before guests even arrive at Amanjiwo to continue their exploration,' adds Hess.

The 'Journey Through Java by Train' can be paired with a two-night stay at Amanjiwo, and is also available for private charters for guests of the hotel.

Introducing Amanjiwo’s resident anthropologist

Vanhoebrouck, a native of Belgium, first moved to Yogyakarta in 1997, initially to work in the furniture and antique export industry.

'During my time here, I quickly became captivated by the unique Javanese culture, particularly its expressive performance arts (such as wayang cycles), and the philosophical and traditional approaches to life,' shares Vanhoebrouck.

His fascination led him to earn both a bachelor's and master's degree in anthropology in the United States and the Netherlands before returning to Indonesia for good in 2010.

'As an anthropologist with a focus on Javanese spiritual practices, I can confidently say that Central Java is a vibrant and dynamic hub for those interested in the spiritual realm, with both man-made and natural sacred sites scattered throughout the landscape,' he explains.

Since 2019, Vanhoebrouck has been collaborating with Amanjiwo to offer evening lectures and curate spiritual and cultural experiences for guests. When he's not at the resort, he leads retreats dedicated to Javanese wisdom and healing while continuing his research into the island's cultural heritage.

As the train meanders through Java’s mountainous valleys, passengers are treated to classic Javanese scenery—lush rice fields, tropical forests, rolling hills, volcanoes, and significant rivers—while listening to Vanhoebrouck’s captivating stories.

A guide to Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world

By the time guests reach Amanjiwo, they are well-equipped with a deep understanding of the region's history, enhancing their appreciation of the many cultural and historical sites nearby.

'Amanjiwo, nestled in the Kedu Plain at the base of five towering volcanoes, is surrounded by ancient archaeological marvels,' observes Vanhoebrouck.

The true highlight of the region is Borobudur, just an eight-minute drive from the resort.

This open-air Buddhist temple, covering over 2,500 square meters, is recognized as the world’s largest Buddhist site.

Built in the 8th and 9th centuries, Borobudur features a pyramidal design with three main tiers built around a hill, including five concentric square terraces, three circular platforms, and a towering central stupa.

Around 500 Buddha statues and 72 stupas, each housing a statue of the Buddha, are scattered across the temple’s stepped structure. The walls and balustrades are adorned with over 1,600 intricate relief panels.

'Borobudur is one of the largest and most elaborate Buddhist monuments in the world, and its uniqueness is undeniable,' says Vanhoebrouck.

'Never before had a Buddhist society attempted to express the full range of Buddha’s teachings through a single monumental stone structure. This is realized in the breathtakingly detailed sculpted iconography, crafted from dark andesite volcanic rock,' he explains.

After centuries of natural weathering, the global community united in the 1970s to support a major restoration of the site, which was carried out by UNESCO.

In 1991, Borobudur was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The traditional pilgrimage route is a six-kilometer journey, gradually ascending through the temple's spiraling corridors, taking visitors across each level of the pyramidal structure. The hike typically takes about half a day.

For those pressed for time, Vanhoebrouck recommends a 'middle ground' approach: learning about the cultural significance of Borobudur before visiting the most iconic relief panels on each level, guided by a local expert.

'Pause here and there in a meditative stance to appreciate the monumental effort, time, and purpose behind the temple’s construction by its original builders and their dharma-centered civilization... take a moment to reflect while facing one of the 500-plus Dhyani-Buddha statues in their alcoves,' advises Vanhoebrouck.

The upper galleries of the temple have been closed since the pandemic. Until they reopen, Vanhoebrouck encourages visitors to walk around the temple several times, practicing a 'kora'—a meditative pilgrimage where one circles a sacred site clockwise.

While watching the sunrise from the top stupa of Borobudur, with mist rolling over the plains and the twin volcanoes rising in the distance, is a popular experience, Vanhoebrouck believes that other times and varying weather conditions bring their own unique beauty to the site.

'Borobudur takes on a unique significance and awe-inspiring atmosphere during the Waisak Ceremony, a three-day Buddhist celebration marking the Buddha's birth, enlightenment, and death,' says Vanhoebrouck.

Waisak Day, also known as Vesak Day, occurs on the full moon of the fourth month of the lunar calendar, typically in May or June.

'It’s a powerful experience to join hundreds of Buddhists from across Asia and the world, witnessing various rituals, chants, and contemplative processions leading towards the temple. Through this, one might catch a glimpse of what the original designers and builders of Borobudur envisioned in the 9th century,' says Vanhoebrouck.

When it comes to other must-see attractions in Central Java, Vanhoebrouck highlights the ancient Hindu-Buddhist temples of the Mataram Kingdom, which thrived from the 8th to the 10th century, as well as the royal palaces (kraton) of Yogyakarta and Surakarta.

'Numerous natural springs, hilltops, caves, and coastal sites continue to be treated with deep reverence by Javanese devotees,' shares the anthropologist from Yogyakarta.

For those eager to embark on the rail journey, Amanjiwo offers two additional packages in 2022: November 24-26 and December 24-26. In early 2023, the train will operate on January 20, February 17, March 17, April 7 and 21, May 5 and 19, and June 2 and 30.