Essential Insights into Costa Rican Cuisine
Costa Rica is one of the few places where visitors can spend a whole week without truly experiencing its culinary scene. Many travelers only sample zapote and guanábana at their hotel breakfast, isolated in resort towns among expats. They miss out on one of Latin America's most underrated cuisines.
In this diverse country, everything flourishes. Stroll through bustling streets in San José and you might pick pitaya and wild tomatoes right off the ground. Beyond cattle ranches and coffee farms, small-scale farmers cultivate vegetables like chayote, arracacha, and purple corn, often sold at the country's extensive network of ferías—weekly farmers' markets found throughout the land. Enjoy refreshing drinks made from the gelatinous seeds of the chan plant, and syrups derived from the carob-like carao tree. Savor addictive snacks made from beans and chicharrón, alongside seafood from both coasts. Corn is a staple, forming the base for tortillas, tamales, and sweet treats.
Venture beyond the expat enclave, away from large hotel chains, and seek out local Mytouries, markets, or sodas (small, often family-run diners). It’s here that the rich tapestry of Costa Rican cuisine truly reveals itself. This is your complete guide to exploring the culinary delights of Costa Rica.
The Origins of Costa Rican Cuisine
'We embody a stunning blend of cultures,' shares chef Pablo Bonilla, whose restaurant Sikwa in San José revives Indigenous culinary traditions. 'From Spain, we have Catalans, Andalusians, and Galicians. Africans arrived from Guinea, Ghana, and later through Jamaica. Plus, there are the Indigenous descendants of the Mayans in the north and Chibchas in the south.'
Before Spanish colonization, Costa Rica existed between the dominant cultural influences of the north and south, reflected in today's Indigenous communities. In Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula, Chorotega communities, the southernmost descendants of the Maya, continue to cultivate and process corn as they have for millennia. Many of their traditional dishes, like tortillas and chorreadas, have been embraced by the broader population, while unique porridges and drinks made from maíz pujagua, or purple corn, remain more localized. In the mountainous Talamanca region to the south, the Bribrí and Boruca communities live sustainably off the land, preserving many ancestral ingredients and cultivating cacao for wider distribution.
As in much of the region, colonization swept through Costa Rica, decimating native food traditions and introducing European livestock and agricultural practices. The Spanish cleared forests to create pastures for cattle and pigs, and planted crops like wheat and rice. Many national dishes, such as olla de carne and various desserts, are adaptations of Spanish recipes using local ingredients.
Some Afro Costa Ricans trace their ancestry to enslaved Africans forcibly brought to the region during colonial times, while a significant number descend from English-speaking Jamaican migrants who settled on the Caribbean coast in the 19th century. Here, coconut milk is a key ingredient, frequently used in seafood stews like rondón and for cooking rice and beans, alongside root vegetables such as cassava and yams.
Though not always beneficial, the United States has influenced Costa Rican cuisine significantly. Over the past few decades, more than 120,000 people from the U.S. have migrated to Costa Rica, many starting restaurants and culinary ventures with varying degrees of success. However, U.S. impact on the country’s food system and environment dates back further, linked to monocultures like bananas, pineapples, and coffee that have dramatically shaped local agriculture.
The abundance found at a Costa Rican market. Yuri Cortez/AFP/Getty ImagesMust-Try Traditional Foods of Costa Rica
Gallo pinto (rice and beans)
Shared by both Costa Rica and Nicaragua, gallo pinto is a local take on rice and beans, typically flavored with bell peppers, cilantro, and onions. The name translates to 'spotted rooster,' highlighting the contrasting colors of the beans against the white rice, although it's often simply referred to as pinto. For breakfast, it may be accompanied by a fried egg, while at lunch and dinner, it serves as a side dish to meat or fish.
Regional variations exist throughout the country. While black beans are common, red beans are preferred in Guanacaste, located on the Pacific coast near Nicaragua. The popular condiment Salsa Lizano, a light brown sauce akin to Worcestershire, is often added to gallo pinto dishes in San José and the Valle Central. On the Caribbean coast, it may be prepared with coconut milk and chiles.
Chifrijo (fried pork with red beans)
This popular bar snack can be found in nearly every cantina in Costa Rica and is believed to have originated in the late 1970s at the now-closed Cordero’s Bar in Tibás, just outside San José. Its name combines its main ingredients: fried pork (chicharrón) and beans (frijoles). Often served with a base of rice or garnished with avocados and tomatoes, the traditional version resembles a bowl of nachos, accompanied by tortilla chips and chilera (spicy pickled vegetables).
Rondón (seafood and coconut stew)
This typical dish from Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast utilizes whatever fish and vegetables a cook has on hand by the end of the week, simmered in coconut milk with herbs and spices. This hearty stew, common throughout the Caribbean, was introduced to Central America by Jamaican laborers in the late 19th century. In Afro Costa Rican areas like Cahuita or Puerto Limón, rondón may feature red snapper, clams, mussels, conch, or sea snails, complemented by green plantains, cassava, and chiles, served with coconut rice and breadfruit.
Casado (combo plate)
Translating to 'married man,' the casado is the quintessential lunch dish of Costa Rica. There’s no fixed recipe, just a blend of simply prepared vegetables paired with a protein. This could be grilled fish, stewed beef, a pork chop, or fried chicken, accompanied by white rice, beans, and coleslaw or a salad of iceberg lettuce and tomatoes. Each region adds its own twist, incorporating fried plantains, avocado slices, tortillas, or a fried egg based on local traditions and seasonal ingredients.
Olla de carne (beef and vegetable stew)
Olla de carne is a staple in many Costa Rican households, particularly on weekends for family gatherings, due to its lengthy cooking time and abundance of vegetables that make smaller portions impractical. Typically made with beef, such as short ribs and various cuts, it simmers for four to eight hours with ingredients like yuca, potatoes, chayote, carrots, corn, or plantains. It is served alongside rice and beans, as is customary.
A bowl of seafood ceviche. Sergio Amiti / Getty ImagesPicadillo (vegetable hash)
Nothing showcases Costa Rica’s agricultural richness better than this comforting hash, which combines chopped vegetables sautéed in fat with onions, broth, herbs, and various seasonings. The dish is named after its primary vegetable, such as picadillo de zapallo (squash), vainitas (green beans), chayote, arracache (arracacha), or papa (potato), and even fruits like papaya. It transforms into a complete meal when served over white rice, often accompanied by a protein like ground beef or chorizo, or wrapped in corn tortillas to create gallos, Costa Rica's take on tacos.
Chorreadas (corn pancakes)
These delightful pancakes, made from freshly ground white or yellow corn, are a breakfast favorite in Costa Rican homes and sodas. The traditional method involves hand-grinding the corn, which can be traced back to pre-Columbian times, though today it is more commonly blended in a food processor and thickened with flour and eggs. Sweet versions (rarely overly sweet) might be topped with honey or syrup, while savory ones are typically served with a dollop of natilla, a sour cream-like condiment.
Ceviche
In contrast to its Peruvian variant, Costa Rican ceviche features fish marinated in lime juice for at least an hour in the refrigerator, resulting in a more opaque and less raw-tasting texture. Typically made with peeled shrimp or firm white fish like sea bass, it may also include chuchecas (blood clams) along with finely chopped onions, tomatoes, garlic, and cilantro. Many locals add a dash of ketchup or Tabasco for an extra kick.
Tamales
As Christmas approaches, a cherished tradition is the tamaleada, where families gather to prepare the highlight of their Christmas feast: pork tamales. These tamales have evolved from Indigenous recipes to incorporate ingredients introduced during colonization, such as rice, chicken, beef, and carrots. Uniquely, they are always wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks, and when two are tied together for sale, they are referred to as a piña.
The Churchill, made with red kola syrup and condensed milk, represents Costa Rica’s iconic copo. ShutterstockCopo (shaved ice)
Across plazas and beaches in Costa Rica, kiosks and mobile carts offer a beloved local treat known as copos or granizados. These cups or cones are adorned with milk powder, flavored syrups, fresh fruit, or marshmallows. The most famous version is the Churchill, named after a local man in Puntarenas who bore a striking resemblance to Winston Churchill and consistently ordered his copo topped with vibrant red kola syrup and condensed milk.
Patí (turnover)
In snack bars and sodas in Caribbean towns like Puerto Limón and Cahuita, the patí, or patty, is a staple. Much like an empanada, it’s filled with ingredients such as sweetened plantain and pineapple. This snack has been a lifeline for many Afro Costa Rican women, who historically sold them from wicker baskets on trains and busy streets; many still uphold this tradition using Tupperware containers.
Sopa de pejibaye (peach palm soup)
Pejibaye, a starchy orange fruit from palm trees, was commonly cultivated throughout Costa Rica before colonization. To make it edible, the fruit must be boiled for at least an hour; once it is peeled and pitted, it can be blended into a soup with stock, cream, and spices.
Miel de chiverre (sweetened squash paste)
While Costa Rica offers popular Latin desserts like flan, tres leches cake, and arroz con leche, a more unique treat is this chunky, sweet paste made from chiverre, also known as fig leaf gourd. This large squash has a sweet, stringy flesh that is dried and then cooked with panela, cinnamon, and other spices. Locals often enjoy it as a filling in sweet empanadas, but it can also be made into candy or simply eaten by the spoonful.
What to Drink in Costa Rican Cafes and Bars
When considering beverages in Costa Rica, coffee undoubtedly comes to mind, and for good reason. After over a century focused on quantity, coffee plantations have recently shifted toward traceability and micro-lots, leading to a variety of distinct coffees found in trendy cafes and roasters in San José and select beach towns.
In rural and Indigenous areas, traditional sweetened beverages like pinolillo and tiste—made from cacao mixed with cornmeal or sometimes rice—can still be found. Additionally, there's agua de sapo, a refreshing drink crafted from ginger, panela, and lime. Chichas, low-alcohol beverages made from fermented corn or fruits like pejibaye, are also popular.
The national alcoholic drink is guaro, a sugarcane spirit that is often mixed with tomato juice, lime, and hot sauce to create the shot-sized chiliguaro. Most locals prefer mass-market lagers such as Imperial and Pilsen, but craft breweries like Treintaycinco, Cervecería Calle Cimarrona, Fuego Brew Co., and Papagayo are continually enhancing their offerings. Innovative bartenders are also incorporating local botanicals and fermented drinks, with unique options available from celebrity bartender Liz Furlong at Cata Agave Bar in Tamarindo, along with the lively Dbar and hotel bars like Celajes and Sentido Norte.
When to Eat Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner in Costa Rica
In Costa Rica, meals often include staples like rice, beans, and tortillas, making them seem somewhat repetitive. Breakfast is usually substantial, featuring gallo pinto alongside eggs and fried plantains, while lunch and dinner substitute eggs for basic proteins and vegetables. On weekends, a cup of coffee paired with a baked treat like an empanada or cookie is a common afternoon addition.
Throughout the week, most meals are enjoyed at home, including lunch, which often coincides with business closures; a siesta may follow as well. Those in a hurry can grab a bite at a soda, typically open from breakfast until the afternoon, while many restaurants close their kitchens by 10 p.m. or earlier. Weekend lunches often turn into all-day family gatherings featuring tamales and hearty stews like olla de carne, with rural and beach Mytouries bustling with activity.
Preparing tamales. Salvador-Aznar/Getty ImagesWhere to Savor Costa Rica’s Classic Dishes with Locals
While many resort towns are filled with gringo-run establishments featuring international menus stocked with imported ingredients, these aren't the typical dining spots for Ticos. Fresh, seasonal produce and locally sourced meats and seafood are frequently available along highways. Besides formal restaurants, there are alternative places to enjoy a good meal:
Sodas
Sodas are the go-to spots for enjoying traditional Costa Rican cuisine outside of home. These casual, independent Mytouries range from basic lunch counters in urban markets to expansive family-run establishments in rural areas. Their menus feature a variety of regional dishes alongside affordable set meals like casados.
Marisquerías
Marisquerías are akin to sodas but focus exclusively on seafood. Primarily located along the coasts, they may not always be right on the beach. Here, you can find straightforward dishes such as camarónes al ajillo (garlic shrimp), arroz con mariscos (rice with mixed seafood), grilled or fried fish, soups, and ceviches.
Ferias del agricultor
Every Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, Costa Rica hosts its weekly feria, a lively farmer's market that showcases seasonal fruits and vegetables. These events often feature live music and vendors offering ready-to-eat delights like pipas (young coconuts), sliced fruits, gallos, and empanadas.
Roadside fruit stands
Along highways and rural roads in Costa Rica, you'll find open-air fruit stands perfect for a quick stop. In addition to mangoes and bananas, look for unique fruits such as manzana de agua (water apples), guanábana (soursop), carambola (star fruit), mamón Chino (rambutan), mamey, and marañon (cashew fruit).
Costa Rica’s Most Exciting Restaurants
Dessert at Celajes. Hotel BelmarThe restaurant revolution that transformed much of South America, and later Central American nations like Panama and Guatemala, arrived in Costa Rica somewhat later but has been steadily gaining momentum since the COVID-19 pandemic.
Pablo Bonilla’s establishment Sikwa in San José’s Los Yoses neighborhood is at the forefront, enhancing ties with fishermen and foragers. The chef collaborates closely with Indigenous communities such as the Boruca and Bribrí to revive traditional dishes. Originally in a small cultural center, Bonilla has been serving a seven-course tasting menu since 2021 in a more upscale, jungle-themed venue featuring a full bar with original cocktails made from ingredients like passion fruit mead and breadnut bitters. In 2024, Bonilla plans to open a 30-seat restaurant, Crudo Izakaya Latino, next door, combining Japanese and Costa Rican culinary influences.
Nearby, Silvestre, housed in a beautifully restored 1930s building in Barrio Amón, offers contemporary Costa Rican cuisine through intricate tasting menus. Similarly, Isolina, situated in a 1942 home built for the Escalante family in Barrio Escalante, serves seasonal cocktails and minimal-intervention wines alongside eclectic, pan-Latin dishes infused with Mediterranean elements.
Although the culinary scene began in the capital, it has gradually expanded, fostering connections between restaurants and the country's natural landscapes. After years in France, chef José González returned home and opened Al Mercat in San José in 2014, exploring the nation’s biodiversity through foraged and fermented ingredients. In 2022, he relocated the project to Copey de Dota, gaining direct access to lake trout, local fruits like papayuela, and highland cheeses. In Playa Potrero, chef Gilberto Briceño creates immersive dining experiences at the Road Less Traveled Cuisine, hosting pop-up meals in Guanacaste’s jungles and beaches, along with a four-seat restaurant.
While the modern culinary scene is still emerging, it is slowly extending into the jungles and along the beaches, where pop-ups, surf cafes, and innovative street food vendors are focusing more on utilizing the country’s natural resources rather than catering to the unsustainable cravings of tourists.
A classic casado de res presented on a banana leaf. ShutterstockWriter and photographer Nicholas Gill is the creator of the newsletter and podcast New Worlder.
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