A local writer responds to common queries about San Francisco

As a travel writer and third-generation San Franciscan, I returned to the Bay Area in 2014 after years abroad and have witnessed many changes—both wonderful and challenging. SF introduced a stunning new park in the Presidio, offering breathtaking views of the Golden Gate Bridge and skyline, an outdoor education center, vibrant food trucks, ample picnic areas, and year-round cultural events. Conversely, downtown has seen conventions and retailers leave due to tough economic conditions and a waning reputation.

It’s essential to recognize that every community experiences ups and downs, and my appreciation for the city’s resilience and creativity is unwavering. Here are the most common questions I receive about San Francisco.

Is it safe to visit San Francisco? Is the Tenderloin as bad as they say?

Absolutely, it's safe!

In short, yes—the city is safe and a wonderful place to visit. Residents are weary of the narrative surrounding San Francisco’s supposed “doom loop,” which suggests that the post-pandemic economic downturn has driven businesses and residents away, leading to a downward spiral for the city. Many media outlets have amplified this dramatic story, harming tourism in the process. While there are challenges related to homelessness and drugs in some areas, many people and businesses have remained and even thrived, attracting newcomers.

Enjoy a meal in the Tenderloin's vibrant restaurants

Concerns about the Tenderloin and nearby areas like Mid-Market and SoMa stem from their notorious reputation, with a high concentration of single-room occupancy (SRO) facilities and some open drug use, which may not appeal to every visitor. However, this neighborhood boasts a wealth of diverse restaurants—many from renowned chefs—alongside lively nightlife including chic jazz clubs and quirky dives, vibrant public art, museums, community organizations, and family-friendly spots. Just use common sense as you would in any major city, and consider rideshares like Lyft or Uber for safe, door-to-door travel to minimize walking in the Tenderloin. Always keep valuables out of sight in your car, including luggage, as this advice applies to tourist areas like Golden Gate Park and the upscale Marina district as well.

Is Union Square the best place to stay, or is downtown lacking vitality?

Downtown offers a diverse selection of accommodations.

Although some major retailers and offices have departed from downtown San Francisco, there's still a wealth of attractions to enjoy, including the scenic cable car turnaround, where visitors can hop on and enjoy a ride past charming Victorian homes all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf. Union Square remains an excellent choice for accommodations, providing a variety of options, particularly for those looking to explore nearby Chinatown and North Beach, both of which are easily accessible on foot.

There's an abundance of art to explore...

San Francisco's vibrant arts scene is centered downtown, featuring landmarks like SFMOMA, the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, the Museum of the African Diaspora, and various smaller galleries, alongside the city’s symphony, opera, and ballet, as well as historic theaters like the Orpheum, Curran, and A.C.T. that showcase both local and traveling performances.

...and exciting new food halls as well

A standout addition downtown is the expansive IKEA, which boasts a stunning two-story food hall called Saluhall. Here, you can enjoy Swedish favorites—such as their renowned meatballs—alongside a variety of locally owned, plant-based food stalls, including the city's sole Algerian restaurant, Kayma, and the vegan Puerto Rican spot, Casa Borinqueña.

In the newly rebranded East Cut neighborhood, covering the SoMa area from 2nd Street to near the Embarcadero, the innovative Vacant to Vibrant Program is transforming empty office spaces by featuring small, independent local makers on a rotating basis, encompassing food and beverage vendors, retail shops, and art studios.

The Embarcadero offers a great alternative

If you're hesitant about downtown but still want to be near major attractions, look for accommodations close to the Embarcadero. This area is adjacent to the bustling Ferry Building, which provides access to ferries heading to Alcatraz, Angel Island, Sausalito, and the newer Treasure Island route. Additionally, you'll find the Embarcadero MUNI and BART station nearby. You can stroll along the Embarcadero or hop on the historic F Market Line streetcars heading north to Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39, with the interactive Exploratorium museum along the way.

Are the iconic spots truly worth visiting?

Absolutely! Especially for those visiting for the first time

For first-time visitors, taking a moment to explore the city’s most famous attractions—Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39, Alcatraz—is certainly worthwhile. Experiencing the striking vermilion of the Golden Gate Bridge, the vibrant red lanterns and winding alleys of Chinatown, and the playful sea lions at Pier 39 enriches your appreciation of the city’s history and diversity—both architecturally and culturally.

Explore via bus tour or MUNI

To efficiently see all the sights, consider the hop-on-hop-off option with Big Bus or a comprehensive tour with Gray Line. If you prefer public transport, all MUNI lines traverse downtown. You can take the T Line to the new Chinatown - Rose Pak Station, ride the F Market along the waterfront, or use the Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde cable car lines to reach Fisherman’s Wharf. Additionally, MUNI bus Line 28-19th Ave will take you to the Golden Gate Bridge. Just keep time constraints in mind; Alcatraz is frequently busy, with long lines for ferry boarding, and reaching the Golden Gate Bridge, located at the northern edge of the city, can take a while.

Be sure to check out the dining spots

Just east of Fisherman’s Wharf, Ghirardelli Square—home of the Ghirardelli Chocolate Experience, which underwent a makeover in 2022 by the design firm behind Apple stores—has become a hotspot for numerous independent restaurants favored by both locals and visitors. From the Detroit-style pizza of Square Pie Guys to the James Beard Award semi-finalist fine-dining Filipino restaurant Abacá, the area’s culinary revival is worth exploring.

What budget should I prepare for a visit to San Francisco?

Due to rising costs of food, labor, and more, living expenses in San Francisco—already high—have increased. You can either embrace this lifestyle or find ways to enjoy the city on a budget.

Local transportation remains reasonably priced

Public transport is still budget-friendly, with single MUNI rides costing a flat $2.50 when using a Clipper card, while BART rides within the city are $2.30. A rideshare across town typically costs around $30, depending on the time of day.

There are accommodation options available for every budget

The most affordable places to stay, aside from platforms like Couchers or Trustroots, are shared hostel rooms starting at $50 at locations such as Hostelling International. Boutique hotels and popular mid-range chains typically range from $150 to $200 per night and up. Luxury hotels can charge $300 to $500 per night or more. Airbnb and VRBO listings fall within a similar price bracket but offer more geographical variety.

Manage your food and drink budget with this pricing guide

For breakfast, options range from an $8 hearty grilled breakfast burrito at Il Canto Cafe in FiDi to a $22 fried catfish eggs Benedict at either of Brenda’s locations. The most affordable coffee costs $2–3 at no-frills donut shops like Allstar Cafe, while specialty lattes at third-wave coffee spots like Blue Bottle can be around $7.50. For lunch, enjoy a fresh $5.50 Vietnamese banh mi at Saigon Sandwich in the Tenderloin, or splurge on a $68 whole Dungeness crab with congee at Harborview on the Embarcadero. Happy hour often offers $5 pints, but expect cocktails to range from $15 to $20. Dinner options vary widely, from $8 house noodles at the cash-only Chinese-Burmese Yamo in the Mission to $200–300 prix-fixe tasting menus at upscale spots like Lazy Bear or the new Akikos. Cover charges for live music typically range from $5 to $25, though many venues are free.

Keep an eye out for free museum days

Museum admission and entry to various attractions typically costs between $15 and $30, but many places, including SFMOMA and the Asian Art Museum, offer free or discounted admission days throughout the year.

What are the must-try foods and drinks?

San Francisco remains a vibrant hub for exciting new restaurants and cherished pop-ups establishing themselves in permanent locations. The number of new restaurant openings in the city returned to pre-pandemic levels by 2022, particularly in downtown and thriving residential areas like Richmond and Portola.

Exciting new spots are making headlines

The charming West Portal neighborhood on the west side has recently welcomed some notable new establishments, including the Italian American takeout place Little Original Joe’s, the family-run Elena’s with its inviting atmosphere, and the new Italian wine bar Binu Bonu, which comes with a fantastic reputation as a sister venue to Sicilian restaurant La Ciccia in Noe Valley, known for its exceptional small plates.

You can still find meals for $10 or less

For budget-friendly options, the cash-only Saigon Sandwich in the Tenderloin's Little Saigon is a top choice, offering fresh bánh mì for just $5.50 to $7. Breakfast sandwiches have become quite popular but many still cost under $10, like the Breakfast Little Sandwich at $8.99. You can enjoy high-quality pizza slices priced between $5 and $10 at places like Outta Sight Pizza in the Tenderloin or Sunset Squares on Divisadero. Numerous takeout dim sum and dumpling shops in Chinatown, Portola, Sunset, and Richmond districts offer tasty rice rolls and more without breaking the bank. Don't overlook the city's rich and largely affordable Mexican and Central American culinary scene, from the famed Mission-style burritos at El Farolito to El Salvadoran pupusas at La Santaneca and hearty lomo saltado at Mi Lindo Perú.

Dining fine in San Francisco can be quite affordable

Affordable fine dining truly exists, with Michelin-starred tasting menus available for about $100, give or take. You can savor a $42 prix-fixe seasonal menu at North Beach’s Trestle or indulge in three to five courses at Cassava for $30–95. At Tenderloin’s Azalina’s, enjoy two- to four-course Malaysian meals priced from $46 to $89, or try a 5-course menu for $89 at the newly Michelin-starred 7 Adams, which emphasizes local ingredients. Sitting at the bar and choosing from the bar menu is another great way to enjoy fine dining without needing a reservation.

Is the Mission still a trendy spot? What other neighborhoods should I explore?

The Mission remains a trendy destination

The Mission continues to be an excellent area to explore, whether you're shopping at quirky indie stores like Paxton Gate on Valencia or enjoying the sun at Dolores Park. The nightlife is vibrant here, with plenty of options along Mission and Valencia Streets, as well as in between— from the lively dive bar Kilowatt to the inventive cocktail spot Trick Dog.

Don’t miss out on these nearby neighborhoods as well

If you're interested in venturing a bit further, check out Bernal Heights. Located south of the Mission, still on Mission Street, this area features relaxed bars with live music, such as the Royal Cuckoo Organ Lounge and the Knockout. Hayes Valley is also easily accessible, just east of Civic Center, and boasts a variety of restaurants like a Mano for fresh pasta and the award-winning cocktail bar Smuggler’s Cove.

The residential neighborhoods on the west side are packed with delightful and affordable mom-and-pop eateries like Yuanbao Jiaozi and the Burmese restaurant Mandalay. You’ll also find laid-back bars along Clement Street, known as the 'Irish Mile,” including the Plough and Stars, which is great for live music, and the Bitter End.

In the northern part of the city, the Marina and Cow Hollow draw a youthful, upscale crowd with an abundance of bars and dining options. Enjoy bloody Marys at the iconic Balboa Cafe or savor ibérico ham xiao long bao on the expansive patio of Blue Whale.

What’s the current state of the LGBTIQ+ scene?

San Francisco has long been a hub of queer culture, continuing to break new ground, such as with activist Honey Mahogany being appointed as the director of SF’s Office of Transgender Initiatives, and her role in establishing SF’s official Transgender District in the Tenderloin, near the historic queer area of Polk Gulch.

The Castro remains vibrant and unapologetic...

The Castro is still regarded as the heart of San Francisco’s modern queer scene, housing the GLBT Historical Society Museum and the iconic Twin Peaks Tavern—arguably the first gay bar in the US with floor-to-ceiling windows, a symbol of pride. Each June, the annual Pride month brings exciting parties and a massive parade, fostering community spirit and loads of fun.

...and there's even more in SoMa

A section of SoMa is designated as the Leather and LGBTQ Cultural District, which celebrates the recent revival of the Stud, the city’s oldest queer bar.

What types of venues should I book in advance?

Even at fully booked restaurants, solo diners and small groups can frequently find bar seating. Many places hold a few tables for walk-ins, so arriving early, preferably before opening, is a smart strategy. Alternatively, consider going later. However, some venues only take reservations, often released a month in advance, like Noodle in a Haystack, known for its unique ramen and exquisite Japanese dishes. Sign up for Open Table’s Notify Me alerts for specific spots to receive notifications about last-minute openings.

Attractions like museums generally have tickets available at the entrance, unless a popular exhibit requires timed entry, such as Yayoi Kusama’s infinity rooms at SFMOMA.

What are some great day trips from San Francisco?

There’s plenty to explore in the city, but if you’re looking for a change of scenery, consider a day trip from SF. Options include relaxing coastal towns just 15 minutes south, the lively East Bay 30–45 minutes away, and the redwood forests and wine country in the North Bay, about 45 minutes to the north. Besides traditional car rental, think about using car-sharing services like Getaround, Zip, or GIG, which have vehicles available for pickup in various neighborhoods.

Where are some fun places to take the kids?

With a wealth of museums, parks, and a focus on accessibility, much of the city is welcoming for families and their strollers (though the hills can be challenging). Check out our guide to things to do in San Francisco with kids to refine your family's itinerary.