A Local’s Guide to an Ideal Long Weekend in Copenhagen

You may have caught the news: This summer, Copenhagen aims to lessen the environmental impact of tourism by incentivizing visitors to include sustainable activities in their plans. Bike to a specific café for a complimentary cup of coffee; volunteer at an urban farm for a free meal (a biodynamic one, of course).

Is there a more quintessentially Copenhagen promotion? This is the city that set the world’s first zero-emissions target; it has converted 90 percent of the food in its public kitchens to organic; and it built a waste-powered municipal plant that doubles as a massive ski slope. It seems perfectly aligned for tourism to join the sustainability movement.

This tourism initiative goes beyond mere publicity. After a decade in Copenhagen, I've realized that the city's consistent focus on sustainability is a significant part of its charm. From the lush parks to the extensive 400 kilometers of bike paths, the pristine harbor waters that transform the inner-city waterfront into a beach, and the organic produce and natural wines that are the foundation of the thriving restaurant scene, Copenhagen is a unique city where fresh air and nature are always within reach of urban life. Here’s how to maximize four days in Copenhagen.

Day One: Rent a bike and discover the harbor

First things first: You’ll need a bike. Cycling is not only the quintessential way to navigate this city, but it’s also the most enjoyable and efficient. While there are plenty of bike rental options, opt for a local shop like Baiskeli to support the community instead of using an app. Pedal towards the harbor for lunch and a delicious introduction to Denmark’s culinary staple: the open-faced sandwich. For Martin Ho, a Copenhagen native and owner of the popular natural wine bar Pompette, Lumskebugten is the go-to spot for smørrebrød, celebrated for its elegant take on classics such as smoked eel with scrambled eggs. “They peel the tomatoes—that's how much they care,” he notes. “It’s the kind of place where you’ll want to return regularly.”

After lunch, you might want to visit the iconic The Little Mermaid statue (just a minute away by bike), or enjoy a lovely view of the harbor by strolling around the top of Kastellet, a charming, functioning military base that also serves as a city park. Next, immerse yourself in Danish culture: you can visit the Museum of Danish Resistance, which features compelling interactive exhibitions detailing the nuanced decisions Denmark faced during World War II, or explore the recently renovated Design Museum Danmark, shedding light on why Danish modern chairs fill so many homes. After your visit, head to the nearby wine bar Lille Blå, with its striking Yves Klein–blue walls, to enjoy a glass of Grüner Veltliner. The cobblestone streets and rows of ocher houses in the Nyboder neighborhood, sprinkled with delightful design shops like Frama for sleek home goods or Hanne Bertelsen for vibrant ceramics, create a perfect backdrop for a leisurely stroll before dinner. At Alouette, situated across from the lush King’s Garden, American chef Nick Curtin combines bold flavors with pristine Nordic ingredients, providing a relaxed atmosphere alongside exquisite service.

Day Two: Cardamom buns and tranquil parks

Although cardamom buns originated in neighboring Sweden, Copenhagen has embraced them wholeheartedly. Start your day at Juno in Østerbro, known for its incredible pastries—worth the inevitable lines. On a nice day, their terrace is perfect for breakfast. Afterward, cycle past the lakes to SMK, the national art museum, which beautifully combines masterpieces by European artists with lesser-known Danish works, plus a tempting gift shop. But the real allure lies outside, as noted by Lars Hinnerskov Eriksen, a culture journalist for Politiken. “To unwind after a hectic day, I stroll through central Copenhagen’s parks,” he shares. “I enjoy the paths around the lake in Ørstedsparken, then grab some fresh produce at Torvehallerne’s food market, followed by a visit to the serene botanical gardens.” Alternatively, you could begin at the botanical gardens, where winding paths and a Victorian glasshouse showcase tropical plants, including a delightful butterfly house, then make your way to the market just in time for tacos at Hija de Sanchez or charcuterie and cheese from Omegn & Venner.

It may sound cliché, but if you’ve never visited a classic amusement park, Tivoli is a true gem. Nestled in the heart of the city, it offers a quintessential European pleasure garden experience, complete with whimsical rides, stunning flower displays, and a fantastic lineup of artists performing on summer Friday nights. You can stay for dinner at one of the guest pop-ups; this year, the renowned Faroe Islands restaurant Koks will be serving. Or, you could venture a bit west to Surt in Carlsberg Byen, where Ho raves about the owner Peppe’s perfectly chewy, charred crust, calling it “some of the best pizza you can find.” Afterward, treat yourself to rich ice cream at the newly opened Aurora nearby or enjoy cocktails and vinyl music at Bird, just a quick bike ride away.

Day 3: Visit a cemetery before enjoying the beach

Start your day with another bakery visit. Rondo in Nørrebro offers a delightful orange-scented morning bun, reminiscent of a sugary brioche. Afterward, take a brief stroll through Assistens Cemetery—though it may sound unusual, it’s quite charming. This graveyard is not only the final resting place of Hans Christian Andersen but also serves as a peaceful urban retreat. Exiting from the north side leads you to Jaegersborggade, where you can grab a pour-over coffee from one of the original Nordic pioneers, Coffee Collective, and browse a variety of independent shops selling delicate ceramics, stylish clothing, and homemade chocolates. On weekends, Baka d’Busk is a fantastic spot for lunch, featuring imaginative all-vegetable dishes in a lively dining atmosphere with unique wines.

In the afternoon, head to Amager Strand, a sprawling sandy beach where locals can be seen swimming in any weather (if you prefer to stay dry, continue south to the aquarium). Afterward, stop by Josephine, a cozy neighborhood bar that also serves as a hidden gem for wine lovers, perfect for an aperitif. Although Christiania has closed its infamous open-air cannabis market (Pusher Street has been shut down for good), its unique DIY homes and lush surroundings still provide a picturesque setting for a leisurely walk. Later, make your way to Christianshavn for dinner, either at Kadeau, a New Nordic restaurant renowned for its inventive cuisine and attentive service, or opt for the more relaxed Donda, where vibrant, Latin-inspired seafood and cocktails take center stage.

Day 4: Indulge in more pastries and enjoy a sauna

On your final morning in Copenhagen, treat yourself to one last bike ride and pastry. Head over to Refshaleøen for breakfast at the quirky and welcoming Lille, where you can enjoy a fresh cream-filled berliner and zesty sausage rolls. From there, it’s just a short ride to Copenhagen Contemporary, a vast gallery located in a former shipyard, loved by Eriksen not just for its ambitious art installations but also for its interactive playground where children can explore and create art based on the themes presented. To wrap up your day, visit La Banchina, situated in an old boathouse, where you can unwind with a sauna and a swim in the harbor, or savor a light meal alongside a final glass of natural wine.

Accommodation Options

Consider Nobis Hotel, ideally situated near the central train station, Tivoli, and a range of museums. This stylish hotel balances grandeur with Nordic chic. Alternatively, Kanalhuset offers a quaint canalside experience in the Christianshavn area, where cozy rooms and a charming café capture the essence of hygge.